• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Theft prevention?

jeli

jeli

Member
414
1
18
Location
Stillwater, MN
I rarely lock mine in town or at work. When I do I still use the chain on the steering wheel. I do keep the engine stop handle out. The biggest reason is if my kids climb in it the master switch can't be flipped and the starter engaged. It might also deter gawkers.

Reminds me of the time I needed to borrow a 6K rough terrain forklift. The steering wheel was chained but the other end of the chain was tucked behind a panel. WHen the CO and a couple guys from Battalion showed up I just smiled and continued loading. They never said a word.
 
bigmike

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,005
356
83
Location
Dixon CA.
Blythewoodjoe said:
I had installed in my old truck (which some of you see often) a keyed ignition switch which broke the hot wire for the on switch and I installed a battery cable disconnect behind the drivers seat. The keyed ignition was enough to keep most people out and the disconnect switch was more of a keep the batteries from getting killed if something was left on. The two together works as good as any older car from the 60's.
Click to expand...
ditto

I bought a cat switch off ebay $28.00. Bought a take off M35 battery to starter cable off ebay $1.00.

Drilled and mounted the switch in the firewall. Wired the switch between the battery and the starter.
 
houdel

houdel

Active member
1,563
10
38
Location
Chase, MI
I went with the NAPA NP KS6180 keyed ignition switch that devilman96 suggested, cost me $18.80 at the local NAPA store. The NAPA switch takes a 3/4" double "D" mounting hole (like a round hole with a flat on each side to keep the switch from rotating, the top and bottom of the hole are round and 3/4" apart, the sides are straight and a little over 1/2" apart). I used my Dremel tool to enlarge the original accessory switch hole just enough to fit the NAPA switch. I didn't take much metal out, I could reinstall the original switch and switch plate and you wouldn't be able to tell it had been modified. As you can see in the photo, the hole for the pin on the original accessory switch that locates the switch plate is visible, so there was not much metal taken out of the dash.

I connected both #11 circuits (+24V) to the "Bat" terminal of the new switch, circuit #1 (feed to alternator & manifold heater, actually marked 55 on my Deuce) to the "Accy" terminal, circuit #27 (starter, fuel pump, low air pressure, front wheel drive and gauges) to the "on" terminal, and ran a jumper from the "start" terminal to the starter relay circuit #74A. That way I can start the truck with either the ignition switch or the original push button switch.

The connectors to the original switch are military rubber female connectors. I didn't have any military style connectors at the time, so I used .157" dia. male "bullet" connectors (NAPA/Baldwin #784341). They snap in nice and tight just like the military connectors, but only cost $1.83 for 20 connectors versus the $1.00 each Saturn charges for military connectors. The NAPA/Baldwin #784353 .157 dia. female connectors are also a perfect fit to the military male connectors.

After I installed the NAPA switch, I painted it OD to match the dash panel, it almost looks like it belongs there.
 

Attachments

littlebob

littlebob

New member
1,548
26
0
Location
Baton Rouge LA
I've been looking at options as redo mine. One idea I had was to make a piece that would fit in the slave receptacle to make contact and rewire the current from the dogbone to go to the slave receptacle, since I probably won't use it, and if I do I know I can make it work, if I keep the dog bone in the truck. I could take out the
fabricated piece and put in my pocket when I left the truck unattended.

littlebob
 
WillWagner

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,539
2,761
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
I just lock the passenger door, loosen the drivers side, front windshield, get out of the truck, open the windsiheld and lock the drivers door. Lower the windshield, done! Of course, there is a chain thre the steering wheel. When I get back in, open the windshield, unlock the door, and leave. I also leave the t-case in low, that way I know I can run fster than the goofball who tries to take it can drive it.
 
TedG

TedG

Well-known member
1,133
39
48
Location
MI USA
I lock the door on the Mog and leave the window open so my doggie can look down at them while they try the handle. Her name is Nipper...for a reason! On most mv's I have, I have a disconnect on the negative battery lead. This has saved my batteries several times due to my lack of memory.
 

Attachments

OPCOM

OPCOM

Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,657
27
48
Location
Dallas, Texas
NewMVGuy said:
Nice, I like the deadbolt idea too! and the install looks pretty neat and clean to me.
Click to expand...
The inside is sloppy if you look at the web page.. It's OK for a first try.
 
GoHot229

GoHot229

Member
908
16
18
Location
Cason Old Field NC. 704-851-9953
Jtspendy

Jtspendy

New member
80
11
0
Location
Vineland NJ
Just to update this thread the part numbers Houdel listed are still good but prices have gone up, cost $30.00 now for the ignition Napa KS6180, and the solderless connectors NAPA 784341 784353, now to just figger out what the wire he was talking about to install it :mrgreen:
 
Docuscg

Docuscg

Member
51
0
6
Location
Wilmington, NC
I am planning on installing a 24V marine batteries switch that comes with a key lock. you have to run your battery cable from your batts to the back of the switch then batt cable continues from the other post to the truck. This kills all power on all wires between truck and batteries. This helps if you have a volt leakage. When you lock the switch with the key, thats it. I do like the idea of a dead bolt on the bottom of the door too.
You can hide the switch in the cab also.
 
Prankster

Prankster

New member
92
0
0
Location
Ponca City, Oklahoma
An African Missionary I met once told me about his method.
He used an electric shut-off valve to his fuel line.
He hooked that to a magnetic breaker.
He hooked that to a reset button hidden up under the dash.
He also had a trip switch hooked to the push button door switch.

The door switch let car-jackers get away with his ride for only two, or three blocks before his car died.

This way they could start his car, and get away with it for only two, or three blocks before the engine had depleted what little fuel was left in the fuel line.
The engine would die, and the thieves would panic, and run.

His greatest fear was, the thieves would not be able to start his car, and come into his house with guns, and harm his family.

This way the thieves never came back for a second try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,929members
165,340threads
2,326,710posts
1,177online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks