This seems to be a seasonal issue for the M1009 Transmission.

[edpdx]

Well for my M1009 transmission anyway.

As the weather gets cold enough to make my belts squeal until the engine warms up, I notice that the Blazer does not move when put into gear right away. During cold weather the Blazer takes a few minutes to build pressure or I don't know what, before the vehicle will began to move.

When new to me several years ago, I added som Ford type transmission fluid and that seemed to clear the problem up. I am due for a trans filter and fluid change, but I wanted to ask: Does the pick up tube typically fall out of these stock trannies. IIRC the last time I changed the filter the tube simply fell out- when I put it back in, it felt very sloppy. Is that the norm?

Any ideas?

 

[Skinny]

I don't think the pickup tube is a super tight fit but you should get some type of positive engagement.

A delay in shifting when placing the selector into D could be low fluid level, too low of engine rpm at idle, worn out clutches, incorrect fluid, or some type of internal valvebody issue. Typical problems are simply low fluid or a plugged filter. Unfortunately that could also cause more severe damage while operating.

First thing to do other than checking level would be to change filter and fill with correct Dex III. I will emphasize checking level according to the manual. Seems like even seasoned vets in the industry think everything is either checked in Park or Neutral just like their own personal vehicle. Guess what, that could be a quart or two difference depending on transmission manufacturer. An even better approach would be to flush the trans. Either way, a good starting point with fluid will eliminate it as a possiblity and it happens to be one of the cheapest things you can do first.

 

[edpdx]

Seems like even seasoned vets in the industry think everything is either checked in Park or Neutral just like their own personal vehicle. Guess what, that could be a quart or two difference depending on transmission manufacturer.

Skinny, I always check my trans fluid in Park. Am I reading your advice incorrectly? Is there another way to check the fluid levels?

Per the -10TM: TM 9-2320-289-10
Table 2-1. Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services for Model CUCV
Location
Item Interval Crewmember Not Fully Mission
No. Item to Procedure
Check
Capable If:
Service
DRIVER
17 After Under NOTE
Hood Transmission fluid level should be checked with engine running, parking brake set, transmission shift lever in “P” and vehicle
on level ground, Fluid level should read between “ADD” and “FULL” on the dipstick. Check transmission fluid level.
If level is below “ADD”, add sufficient
fluid to bring the level between “ADD” and “FULL” mark.

NOTE
After completing transmission fluid level check, turn off engine.

 

[Skinny]

Nope, that is the correct way for the TH400. I would also run the transmission through R and D a few times then return to P. Of course the best way would be to just roadtest it under normal driving conditions before doing this.

 

[Blake]

Pull the pickup out of and put 2 "o" rings on it.

 

[jatonka]

One of my winter fronts might be an idea, exact reproductioin of original CUCV canvas winter front with mounting kit

 

[rsh4364]

One of my winter fronts might be an idea, exact reproductioin of original CUCV canvas winter front with mounting kit

I have one of these covers on my 1009,huge difference in cold weather,everything warms up much faster.And its not just a canvas cover,its much thicker and seems to be insulated on inside too. I worked in a canvas shop and these covers can not be cheap to build.Might still be some vid on youtube of mine installed wet,they will shrink a bit when dry.Search rsh4364 and 1009 update.I have already had mine on twice this fall,easy on,easy off.Cold in morning,warm in afternoon.

 

[cucvrus]

I have one that does the same thing. I don't go in gear as quick as I did 30 years ago. Live with it or pull the trans and have it rebuilt. That is 30 years of dry seals and weak pump pressure. Mine works fine until it reaches 50 degrees outside. And the colder it gets the longer it takes. Warm it up good and it will be fine. Or pull the transmission and have it rebuilt. There is no quick fix to this problem.

 

[rsh4364]

Another thing you can check is your vacuum from the pump,vacuum from reg. valve and vac. at the modulator on trans.My trans doesn't get weird til its 10 degrees or lower out.

 

[cucvrus]

The vacuum has nothing to do with the truck transmission shifting into gear when the outside temperature is cold. Nothing at all. Trust me on this one. The issue is in the pump and seals of the transmission. I already had mine to the transmission shop serviced and checked. It will require the transmission to be removed disassembled and diagnosed. I chose to just live with it and allow it to warm up for 5 minutes before I attempt to put it in gear. The transmission man agreed. I will only do the rebuild when it does not go at all. And so far 3 years it has been fine. Warm it up or rebuild it $$$. The choose is yours. Other then that the transmission should last a long time. It is a good idea to service the trans annually. New filter and fluid. $30. Keep it rolling.

 

[edpdx]

One of my winter fronts might be an idea, exact reproductioin of original CUCV canvas winter front with mounting kit

You sold me one 3 years ago, bud.

 

[edpdx]

The vacuum has nothing to do with the truck transmission shifting into gear when the outside temperature is cold. Nothing at all. Trust me on this one. The issue is in the pump and seals of the transmission. I already had mine to the transmission shop serviced and checked. It will require the transmission to be removed disassembled and diagnosed. I chose to just live with it and allow it to warm up for 5 minutes before I attempt to put it in gear. The transmission man agreed. I will only do the rebuild when it does not go at all. And so far 3 years it has been fine. Warm it up or rebuild it $$$. The choose is yours. Other then that the transmission should last a long time. It is a good idea to service the trans annually. New filter and fluid. $30. Keep it rolling.

Sounds good to me to hold off on transmission work until it really goes. I am seldom in a rush where 5 minutes warm-up makes a difference. I just wanted to be sure I have not overlooked something. My belt squeaks for 5 minutes or so anyway if I try to drive the Blazer cold. So I have been starting up, shifting through the gears and setting it in reverse or drive until I feel it is warm enough and I don't hear belt squeal.

I'll change fluid and filter and double-up on O-rings... oh, and put my grill scarf on : )

Thanks men.

 

[cucvrus]

I just fixed a guys truck 2 weeks ago that had the belt squealing and needing a new belt every 3 months. I know I will take Flak for this but so be it. The belt is squealing probably because the ballasts on the firewall have been removed or dis-connected. And when you start the truck it is pulling all the glow plug current from the front battery. That is not the way the system was designed to operate. If the ballasts are in place they will make the glow plug sytem draw the power from both batteries and thus the charging will be shared by both alternators. Less load on the single alternator. Also the glow plug system will cycle after the engine is started cold and do the job it was designed to do. I have been seeing many civilian owned CUCV's that the system has been modified and that is when they are having troubles. I suggest that you get a copy of the booklet that CUCV Electric published on the glow plug diagnostics and repair. It beats the TM instructions and is an easy step by step test and instruction to get the glow plug system back to a properly functioning system again. After all they have been running fine for the past 30 years. Why re-design the system now? Not sure. Let me know if you have access to the manual. I hear tell CUCV Electric is not in business any longer. But I have a manual that I can share. Maybe someone would copy the manual into the CUCV useful information section of this site. Maybe I won't hold my breath. They are all into cutting and re-designing. And the Artic winterization grille cover will not do a hoot to resolve the cold condition in your transmission. If you could find a transmission fluid warmer that would do the trick. Just give it 5 minutes to warm up and go. You may need less then 5 minutes or more. 5 minutes is not the golden rule. it works for mine maybe not yours. Keep it Rolling and Good Luck.

 

[rsh4364]

The vacuum has nothing to do with the truck transmission shifting into gear when the outside temperature is cold. Nothing at all. Trust me on this one. The issue is in the pump and seals of the transmission. I already had mine to the transmission shop serviced and checked. It will require the transmission to be removed disassembled and diagnosed. I chose to just live with it and allow it to warm up for 5 minutes before I attempt to put it in gear. The transmission man agreed. I will only do the rebuild when it does not go at all. And so far 3 years it has been fine. Warm it up or rebuild it $$$. The choose is yours. Other then that the transmission should last a long time. It is a good idea to service the trans annually. New filter and fluid. $30. Keep it rolling.

I agree with you 100%,I just thought it might be something to check as my vac. pump recently failed at only 90K miles.