Those pesky dust boot wires!?

[byrdman1312]

Does anyone have any ideas on a easier way to tighten the wires on the inside of the dust boots, where they won't leak. I've replaced dozens, maybe hundreds of these, every now and again I'll get a "leaker". That boot that just will not stop leaking. As anyone who has replaced one can attest, they are aggravating even when they work well.

What brought me to this message, I was watching a video of a guy putting locking wires on jet engine bolts. He was twisting the wires very tightly and said they would harden after they were twisted. Is there a wire, like this, that can be twisted very tightly without breaking? I have some twisting plyers that are used for those applications.

Thanks my friends! I'm retired now and are trying to get back into MV repair, I've got lots of projects.

 

[Guyfang]

When I worked on turbines, we had a stainless wire, in different sizes, that was very hard to break. I might still have several rolls and will see if I can find some tech info.

 

[87cr250r]

You need to look for annealed wire. It's soft which lets it twist without springing back. It's typically stainless steel or Monel (if you expect any salt exposure).

 

[michaelewhite]

I retired from the phone company and I use arial lashing wire. It works really well, especially when tightened with Safety Wire pliers. ( your twisting pliers ). You can probably get some from a telephone person just by stopping and asking for some.

 

[byrdman1312]

Thanks for the replies! I'll try those suggestions. On the same note, has anyone tried, or had experience with cornhead grease? One of my grandsons is a diesel and farm equipment mechanic, I'm going to ask him about this as well. The way I understand this grease, it is like normal grease at room temp. When it heats up it liquefies, returning to semi-solid state when cooled. My concern with the mule drop axle application is that it may not lube all the small bearings like gear oil would. Thanks in advance!
Keith

 

[reallybigboat]

Hi Keith

I have some experience with cornhead grease. It is today's recommended lubricant for the universal joint area in early 1930's Ford cars. On those cars, the driveshaft and U-joints are enclosed in a housing. I was able to locate cornhead grease at my local John Deere dealership in their showroom on the rack with many other types of grease. Comes in a cartridge that fits modern grease guns, although I did not run through my grease gun. I agree with your thought above; it might not lube everywhere, but it does seem to get to a semi-liquid state. My $.02 worth is I would just stick with the 90-weight gear oil as called for in the LO.