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Thoughts on removing coil springs on A1R

A

aw113sgte

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Noticing just how stiff the front end is over bumps and it's lack of articulation got me thinking. As far as I'm aware, the leaf springs are the same on the A1R A1 A0. A1R adds those large coils as well but for what benefit - some have said for the ability to carry armor in the future. Seems like for us, those springs are doing nothing but making for a harsher, less compliant ride.
Kicking around the idea of pulling the springs (leaving the shock) to get back some compliance. Thoughts?
 
G

GeneralDisorder

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It's not a simple problem. You can't just swap back to the shocks used on previous A1 trucks. The shock tower uses completely different hardware and the towers are huck bolted to the frame. Not to mention even finding "new" FMTV shocks. They were made by (near as I can tell) General Kinetics, which was bought out and absorbed into another company in Canada.... I'm not sure who is making them now for the A1P2's (in the rear anyway)..... maybe a call to Oshkosh would yield some leads.....

There's not currently anyone making shocks for these trucks that are actually designed for the application. You can find things like sets of shocks from Midwest Military, etc but they are not engineered for the application they are just cheapo shocks they have adapted and you have to change hardware, etc..... which of course won't work with the A1R shock towers.

FOX closed down their heavy duty division and has no interest in producing them for us again. I've looked into a lot of options and basically you'll be spending at least $1500 - $2500 per corner at a minimum and it will be 100% custom. ICON is probably as good an option as any but they have no knowledge of what fits our trucks - the ones that have been done (there's maybe a couple) have all been 100% custom and involved custom made parts that were made for that specific truck.

I don't think that a non-engineered solution is going to be better than the coil-overs that are on the truck now. That's why I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet. I've driven both types of trucks and I don't notice that the A1R is significantly stiffer.
 
fuzzytoaster

fuzzytoaster

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I don't have much difference in the ride quality on my A1R trucks. They are quieter without the bounce of the air bags and frankly it doesn't throw my drink around as much when driving. Generaldisorder has some good insight about the shocks (above). It's nature of the beast until you're willing to pay for custom stuff.
 
A

aw113sgte

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GeneralDisorder said:
It's not a simple problem. You can't just swap back to the shocks used on previous A1 trucks. The shock tower uses completely different hardware and the towers are huck bolted to the frame. Not to mention even finding "new" FMTV shocks. They were made by (near as I can tell) General Kinetics, which was bought out and absorbed into another company in Canada.... I'm not sure who is making them now for the A1P2's (in the rear anyway)..... maybe a call to Oshkosh would yield some leads.....

There's not currently anyone making shocks for these trucks that are actually designed for the application. You can find things like sets of shocks from Midwest Military, etc but they are not engineered for the application they are just cheapo shocks they have adapted and you have to change hardware, etc..... which of course won't work with the A1R shock towers.

FOX closed down their heavy duty division and has no interest in producing them for us again. I've looked into a lot of options and basically you'll be spending at least $1500 - $2500 per corner at a minimum and it will be 100% custom. ICON is probably as good an option as any but they have no knowledge of what fits our trucks - the ones that have been done (there's maybe a couple) have all been 100% custom and involved custom made parts that were made for that specific truck.

I don't think that a non-engineered solution is going to be better than the coil-overs that are on the truck now. That's why I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet. I've driven both types of trucks and I don't notice that the A1R is significantly stiffer.
Click to expand...
I wasn't talking about custom shocks or anything like that I merely mean removing the spring from the shock and putting the shock back on.
 
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GeneralDisorder

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Had not considered attempting that. Obviously the coil over assembly is stupidly heavy and that spring will need some containment to attempt removal. Move very cautiously in taking them apart. I look forward to hearing your results.....
 
A

aw113sgte

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GeneralDisorder said:
Had not considered attempting that. Obviously the coil over assembly is stupidly heavy and that spring will need some containment to attempt removal. Move very cautiously in taking them apart. I look forward to hearing your results.....
Click to expand...
I've got a couple ratchet straps and a rental spring compressor from AutoZone, all good to go!
Okay obviously not, don't want to Chucky myself.

First I'll just take the assembly off and measure differences in ride heights.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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I've pondered it for years.

I think first I will get the brush guards, ladders, roof rack, towbar and carrier, lighting, a/c , and all interior cab work installed.

I don't expect it to really feel any different (I certainly won't be adding anywhere near the weight of the armor kits), but I want to start there as a baseline.

I drive my truck as a daily and I keep pretty good eye on the paint wear on the coils, and they do in fact get a workout. So it's not like they are not articulating.

I'll echo to steer clear of the outfits selling 2" body pickup-truck shocks. And while customs can be had, to do it right they really need access to the truck to get all the corner weights for valving. So yeah, road trip plus a couple-to-three grand per shock and some assembly wait time.

Removing the coils is likely the simplest solution.

It's just a damned shame that there are no proper shock replacement solutions for these trucks (A0, A1, and the A1R).
 
R

Ronmar

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Yea the closest I have come to viable is a class 6-7 Monroe truck shock, but it is 1/2” less travel than a stock A0 shock. I did come across some class A RV shocks, but have not done any research on them yet…

I talked to Rancho at one point and although they made some of the appropriate length and travel, when I started feeding them weights, they immediately said theirs wouldn’t be appropriate:) Dam fat trucks!
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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Ronmar said:
Yea the closest I have come to viable is a class 6-7 Monroe truck shock, but it is 1/2” less travel than a stock A0 shock. I did come across some class A RV shocks, but have not done any research on them yet…

I talked to Rancho at one point and although they made some of the appropriate length and travel, when I started feeding them weights, they immediately said theirs wouldn’t be appropriate:) Dam fat trucks!
Click to expand...

Yep.

But anything can be had for the right price. The ideal solution with no budget would likely be getting in contact with some of the race truck sponsors (Dakar, Red Bull, etc). But race gear is silly expensive (especially when the manufacturer sends the engineering team out to tune the shocks). LOL
 
MatthewWBailey

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
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Ronmar said:
Yea the closest I have come to viable is a class 6-7 Monroe truck shock, but it is 1/2” less travel than a stock A0 shock. I did come across some class A RV shocks, but have not done any research on them yet…

I talked to Rancho at one point and although they made some of the appropriate length and travel, when I started feeding them weights, they immediately said theirs wouldn’t be appropriate:) Dam fat trucks!
Click to expand...
I'm trying the Monroe 65456 front shocks listed in the parts spreadsheet on mine once I get them. I don't think the existing ones are working at all.
 
MatthewWBailey

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
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Ronmar said:
yea not sure how the 1/2" less travel will effect anything, if at all. I have not analyzed how the stock travel length overlaps the bump stop and projected spring down travel...

I suspect they will work OK.
Click to expand...
I'm bouncing like a beach ball right now lol
 
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