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Three lever switch

4STARDAD

Member
50
32
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Location
North Georgia
Nope they are all the same and the breaker is sealed inside.
Ok...my son and I are planning to disconnect the M and L wires from the switch (headlights and parking) but leave the rest on the main so maybe we don't trip the breaker....the taillights will work but when I hit the service lights it all goes out...figure I'm tripping the breaker
 

NDT

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Camp Wood/LC, TX
The only time I had issues with tripping the breaker on 12 volts was when pulling a civilian trailer with lots of clearance lights. Very scary to be going down a dark highway that night and have every single light go off.
 

4STARDAD

Member
50
32
18
Location
North Georgia
The only time I had issues with tripping the breaker on 12 volts was when pulling a civilian trailer with lots of clearance lights. Very scary to be going down a dark highway that night and have every single light go off.
Sounds like I either have a short or my switch is bad...correct? Are you still running original wiring?
 

msgjd

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upstate ny
My M880 of course is 12V with a BO switch .. Never had an issue even with fully-markered beavertail equip trailers with it.. My old "M38A5" uses a 12v system donated from a 70's CJ5, and it pulls M100 and M416 trailers bulbed at 12V, with no problems.. The BO switches work fine with 12V but as has been mentioned in this string, you have to watch your total amps , and if you have an unusual amount of lighting you certainly can wire in a relay or two for just the trailer lights or headlights, whichever are the heaviest loads
 

4STARDAD

Member
50
32
18
Location
North Georgia
My M880 of course is 12V with a BO switch .. Never had an issue even with fully-markered beavertail equip trailers with it.. My old "M38A5" uses a 12v system donated from a 70's CJ5, and it pulls M100 and M416 trailers bulbed at 12V, with no problems.. The BO switches work fine with 12V but as has been mentioned in this string, you have to watch your total amps , and if you have an unusual amount of lighting you certainly can wire in a relay or two for just the trailer lights or headlights, whichever are the heaviest loads
So they make a three lever switch in 12 volt?
 

4STARDAD

Member
50
32
18
Location
North Georgia
No. They work fine on 12V, but the internal circuit breaker may not handle the total load of a bunch of 12V lights.

Half the voltage, twice the current is how it works.
My switch has gone bad....took it out and made a jumper from the 'F' wire to everything else and it all worked (still 24v, haven't switched bulbs yet) but the switch won't turn them on. Also pulled the 'L' and 'M' wires (headlights and parking) to put them on a separate toggle switch. Can these switches be repaired? Really don't want a cheap SE Asian copy...would rather repair MADE IN the US
 

msgjd

Well-known member
1,112
3,415
113
Location
upstate ny
My switch has gone bad.... Can these switches be repaired? Really don't want a cheap SE Asian copy...would rather repair MADE IN the US
I believe they are sealed and unrepairable .. If I am wrong I am sure someone will chime in .. They go bad on occasion, however most of mine are from the 1950s and 60s and are still in use
 

Guyfang

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Burgkunstadt, Germany
Its sealed. Having said that, if its broke, you can not make it "broker". About 50 years ago, I took one apart. Its more work then it was worth. I just wanted to see what was in it. Then tossed it out.
 

4STARDAD

Member
50
32
18
Location
North Georgia
Its sealed. Having said that, if its broke, you can not make it "broker". About 50 years ago, I took one apart. Its more work then it was worth. I just wanted to see what was in it. Then tossed it out.
Before I got the truck it was a firefighting brush truck...someone tried to put 12 volt 100 watt floodlight bulbs in the two drive blackout lights on the hood and even wired it backwards. Fried the #33 and K wire all the way back to the firewall. Now only the taillights work,sometimes...took the harness off the back and used a section of wire to jump from the F wire to all the others...they all worked...so the switch is toast....does anyone have a good used or maybe NOS or even made in USA?
 
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