three prong female cannon plug for an MRE heater

[aboonski]

I just got my new MRE heater yesterday and now I am looking for the correct cannon plug to use to input power to this thing! I made a temporary test feed for the heater and it works perfectly. I made two YouTube videos for my son who is in the Air Force and not too fond of MREs. The video is sort of a gag thing but in reality, living here in Florida, you never know when the lights will go out for weeks at a time. It's nice to know you can get a hot meal right out of your truck when you want one!

I'll post a photo of the pin socket that I need the plug for. I already tried Saturn Surplus and they did not have the plug. Here's a link to the cornball videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO9q8KA4K30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yWj8GXhUyQ

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Try here
http://www.peigenesis.com/ittCannon.html
BC

 

[aboonski]

Thanks for the link! It will take me a while to sort through the site but I am sure they will have what i need! By the way, I used to have eight Triumph motorcycles - one of them was a TRX75 Hurricane which I sold for $4000.00. Wish I had it back now!

 

[cranetruck]

To help you with the connector, what is the number on the insert? You should be able to read it with a bright light tilted just right, should be something like "14S-7" or "16S-6" or similar.
The mate for it should be MS3106A-14S-7S or MS3106A-16S-6S for the examples mentioned. They used to be called "Amphenol" or just plain "MS" connectors. The Cannon connectors were usually associated with the bayonet type lock...in my experience anyway...

 

[aboonski]

Cannon 16-10

Thanks for the info Bjorn! I did find a number 16-10 and I hope this is helpful to find the mate for the plug. This one has the screw-in threads not the one-twist does it all setup. I did go to one website that specializes in cannon connectors but it was complicated for me without knowing specific model numbers of the plug I need. I would imagine these things are expensive.....

 

[LanceRobson]

RE: Cannon 16-10

I'm looking for couple of them. If you find them, please post the info.

Thanks

Lance

 

[cranetruck]

RE: Cannon 16-10

If it is marked "16-10", then you need an MS3106A-16-10S to mate.

The important part is the insert, 16-10S, go to ebay and search for it or google it for alternate sources.
Ebay item#310058906045, for example, a bit pricy, but should fit.

 

[aboonski]

Ebay Item 310058906045

Wow Bjorn! If I bought that plug from Ebay it would cost as much as I paid for the ration heater! I do thank you very much for going through all of the trouble of researching what I had and finding what I need. You are a wealth of information and a definite asset to this website! I will do more research on a source for this particular female part but may just pay the price if another one is not available for less.

 

[aboonski]

Here's a PDF view of the many cannon plugs available

http://www.ittcannon.com/uploadedFiles/Product_PDFs/MS A&B Catalog.pdf


I went directly to the manufacturer's web site and found this very interesting PDF document that shows each plug as you would see it by looking at the female portion of the plug. Hope this helps someone out there.

 

[aboonski]

crimper for cannon plugs

I just received the CA 06R-16-10S-F80 cannon plug for my MRE heater now I have to put it together and crimp the wires but do not have the ITT cannon crimper. Many thanks to Bjorn for finding the exact cannon plug that I needed on Ebay! I do have one of the Packard cripers and would like to know if any of the other members have used them for cannon plug applications. Any suggestions beyond that? You should see what they want for the ITT Cannon crimper on Ebay!!!! I paid $40.00 for the cannon plug alone plus shipping. This is getting expensive but I want to do it right!

 

[cranetruck]

RE: crimper for cannon plugs

You are welcome.
The MS connectors I have all use solder cups, don't know which crimping tool you would need.....

 

[LanceRobson]

The manufacturer's website lists them as solder cups.

For the few I field repaired while in the Army, the best way I found to solder it is to strip the jacket the length of the solder cup, then strip a little piece of jacket down to the end of the conductor (this kept the strands from fanning and kept them the correct diameter) Then lightly tin the connector. Trim the part with the jacket off. It's a lot easier to get the tinned end to lay in the trough of the connector.

The website mentions that the new connectors have a redesigned solder cup intended to make it more user friendly. I haven't seen one so don't know what the change is.

Also, still waiting for the quote from their jobber. I guess 10 connectors isn't worth their responding to.

 

[cranetruck]

Go here for your connector needs:

http://www.mouser.com/

If you happen to have the shell and only need the insert, specify the insert by putting "97" in front of the number, "97-16-10S" for example. A snap ring holds it in place and it is more economical than buying the assembled finished connector. It works for me, since I have a bunch of odd connectors...

 

[fal_shooter]

I know this is an older post but I am thinking about buying one of these heaters but it does not have the power cable. Does anyone know exactly what I need and where to get it? I looked at the sites suggested on this post but I got lost quickly. Any advice would be appreciated. The heater looks like just the option I need for my new CUCV.

 

[Jones]

I've dealt with PEI/Genesis and they wll only sell complete connectors-- NO individual components.
Gonna take me some reading to get the hang of Mouser's catalog.

A source for parts would be great as I'm currently left with scrapping connectors for the pieces to make what I need.

 

[LanceRobson]

If you know anyone with a take-out front wiring harness, I believe it's the same connector as the flasher.

Lance

 

[Recovry4x4]

Dang Lance, it sure as heck does look the same. Maybe I will buy one of these for camping.

 

[Tanner]

I've dealt with PEI/Genesis and they wll only sell complete connectors-- NO individual components.
Gonna take me some reading to get the hang of Mouser's catalog.

A source for parts would be great as I'm currently left with scrapping connectors for the pieces to make what I need.

I've rep'd connectors for Cannon & Amphenol... you cannot get inserts separately. Crimp contacts, however, can be bought separately. If you DO, somehow, manage to get ahold of inserts from someone, they are usually leftover parts that someone is trying to ditch. Inserts are glued into the connector shell, and then the solder contacts are inserted/glued into place.

Solder connectors are designed to be a one-shot deal - i.e., non-repairable.

If I was looking for functionality over originality, I'd install a generic plug & receptacle combo on the device & powercord...

And here are the Cannon part numbers for crimp tools, insert/extraction tools, etc., used on the MS series - http://www.peigenesis.com/pdfs/ittCannon/csg/ittCannonCSG_102-103.pdf

Tanner

 

[Tanner]

Go here for your connector needs:

Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor

If you happen to have the shell and only need the insert, specify the insert by putting "97" in front of the number, "97-16-10S" for example. A snap ring holds it in place and it is more economical than buying the assembled finished connector. It works for me, since I have a bunch of odd connectors...

Bjorn -

Be aware that the Amphenol Series 97 connectors are the bottom-feeder, entry-level connector. They are not environmentally sealed against water or dirt & cannot be submerged. However, they are EMI/RFI shielded... go figure!

Tanner

 

[cranetruck]

Bjorn -

Be aware that the Amphenol Series 97 connectors are the bottom-feeder, entry-level connector. They are not environmentally sealed against water or dirt & cannot be submerged. However, they are EMI/RFI shielded... go figure!

Tanner

Guess I have been a bit sloppy with the spec, however the 97 series inserts fit the MS series "A" shells and will mate with the environmentally sealed connectors, if I'm not mistaken.