My belts started squealing on my M1009 last week. I put it off until today. One look with the engine running told the story. The power steering pump bracket had at least one nut loose. This is the new one i got with purchase of an old P/S pump for $39? The original one had broken twice, and I was tired of failed welds- my own fault for welding it myself.
It was just starting to sprinkle- I was working outside. I wanted to get this job done asap.
Here's how with pics- about 20 minutes:
Tools: One 3 foot 3/4"x3" board, one 3/8" adjustable ratchet with 8" extension, one 15mm deep well socket, one pry spike, one 8' length rope.
Loosen the lower bolts holding the Driver side alt. Remove the D/S alt upper (adjusting bolt). Remove ALT belt from P/S pump, and then from the ALT pulley. Swing the free alternator right to get access to P/S pump/bracket.
Loosed BOTH sliding adjuster nuts on P/S bracket- the rear one is hampered by the front injector wiring clip- just pull it off and set it aside. Loosed the pivoting bolt nut just enough so you can get the P/S pump to swivel.
Place the bottom of the 3' board against the center pulley bolt of the P/S pump. Jam it left so that it rests on the fan pulley, be sure it is forward of the P/S belt so that you can tension it correctly. Apply pressure to keep the board in place while you attach the rope around it.
I threaded the rope through the channel, as shown, and secured it in place while I tightened the adjuster nuts first. Then the pivot nut.
Remove the rope and board. Swing the alternator back in place and install the adjuster bolt until barely tight. Thread the belt over all pulleys. ALT pulley- next to last. P/S pulley LAST. Work the spike through the hole in the bracket until the ALT is pushed over and begins to tighten the belt. I made mine a little tighter now, as it usually loosens a bit later.
Tighten the bottom nuts and botlts the ALT pivots on and then the Slider bolt at the top. Tap the spike free.
Don't forget to reconnect the injector wire if you removed it earlier.
It was just starting to sprinkle- I was working outside. I wanted to get this job done asap.
Here's how with pics- about 20 minutes:
Tools: One 3 foot 3/4"x3" board, one 3/8" adjustable ratchet with 8" extension, one 15mm deep well socket, one pry spike, one 8' length rope.
Loosen the lower bolts holding the Driver side alt. Remove the D/S alt upper (adjusting bolt). Remove ALT belt from P/S pump, and then from the ALT pulley. Swing the free alternator right to get access to P/S pump/bracket.
Loosed BOTH sliding adjuster nuts on P/S bracket- the rear one is hampered by the front injector wiring clip- just pull it off and set it aside. Loosed the pivoting bolt nut just enough so you can get the P/S pump to swivel.
Place the bottom of the 3' board against the center pulley bolt of the P/S pump. Jam it left so that it rests on the fan pulley, be sure it is forward of the P/S belt so that you can tension it correctly. Apply pressure to keep the board in place while you attach the rope around it.
I threaded the rope through the channel, as shown, and secured it in place while I tightened the adjuster nuts first. Then the pivot nut.
Remove the rope and board. Swing the alternator back in place and install the adjuster bolt until barely tight. Thread the belt over all pulleys. ALT pulley- next to last. P/S pulley LAST. Work the spike through the hole in the bracket until the ALT is pushed over and begins to tighten the belt. I made mine a little tighter now, as it usually loosens a bit later.
Tighten the bottom nuts and botlts the ALT pivots on and then the Slider bolt at the top. Tap the spike free.
Don't forget to reconnect the injector wire if you removed it earlier.
