Timing Gear Drive

[Lostforwords]

Hello!


Anybody selling a gear drive for the master of all CUCV m1009 6.2 =]???
Tried search with no luck. To be quite honest I'm confused as to what I should stick with chain or gear. I just want my newly bought M1009 with only 5k miles to run forever.

 

[reloader64]

I assume you're referring to the timing chain/gear...

I bought a gear set several years ago, but I don't remember from who. As i recall, it was a special run. No one that I know of is making them right now, due to low demand. The stock timing chain should last well over 100K miles.

Scott

 

[cucvrus]

The body and frame will rot off and return to the earth before the gear drive would even be worth the expense and effort. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Good Luck. How about some pictures of this 5 K M1009.

 

[Lostforwords]

Thank you both for the reply! Yes, I was referring to the timing chain. I just want to work out all the kinks as this will be my DD and lug along the family on occasion. I have been reading many post about “mods” , “Must do’s” and so on, that’s why I was asking about the gear drive, but if all is well and I should remain with the OG part(Chain) then alrighty. I’ll be changing/adding the following: All fluids, fix leaky gaskets, starter solenoid, starter bracket, apply some sound deadening to the hood, rhino lining the entire floor, tailgate, maybe the headliner as well??, adding AC with Masterflux Sierra compressor, if I can get some cheap 2015 and above Chevy truck/SUV front and rear seats, electric fan for the radiator/ac condenser, external transmission cooler, electronic gauges: (gas, tach, oil pressure, water/trans temp, and speedo), LED headlights and tails lights, limo tint, upgrade all the rubber bushings to polyurethane bushings, any suspension parts that can be upgraded or need to be replaced, fuel filter to a dual water and filter system, and that’s all I can think of at the moment to make this baby bullet proof!

Oh wait! I was thinking about putting in a 700r4 or 4L80E but was reading that doing so wouldn’t benefit me because my gear ratios make it pointless? Any thoughts anyone? When I start the build, I will be taking picture of everything from start to finish! Really excited for all that has to come, and I hope during this process I can help others during. Once I take the keys for the 1985 M1009 I will post up the pictures, currently working numbers with the buyer but its sold to myself just waiting to get all the numbers worked out so hopefully this will be settled by Thursday.

 

[richingalveston]

Leroy diesel sells the timing gear set if he has any in stock. I put that and the roller rockers on my new motor and the roller rockers were defective. They seized up and bent some valves along with spreading the timing gear retainer. I had the heads rebuilt and put the stock rocker arms and timing chain back in.
motor ran quieter with roller rockers and timing gear but only ran for a few minutes before seizing up. The spacers between the roller rockers were to wide and I was not informed of the problem before running the motor. As soon as the motor came up to temp, the spacers swelled and locked up the rocker arms.
Now that I have seen how the timing gear set fails I am not a fan. There are two idler gears that float between the cam gear and crank gear. the metal retainers will spread the two gears when there is to much stress. This will cause the two gears to not float properly and thus effect your timing and cause the gears to wear prematurely. The timing chain works well and is much more reliable than the gear set.

don't worry about the overdrive unless you turbo the motor. Not enough HP to use the overdrive without a turbo.
you have to have a blazer rear seat, truck rear seats will not fit between fender wells.
change all that needs to be changed to fix any leaks. adding AC is good. you can lift it and go bigger tires if you want. just don't go over 33 inch tires with stock axles. 31's are actually best with stock axles.
dog head mod, sound deadening, fix all rust, fresh paint
I am not a fan of rino lining, rust can work its way under the liner and the metal will be gone before you realize it and you cannot remove the rino liner to fix the metal when needed.
My 2 cents, I have done about everything possible to my 1009 and encourage others to make their truck to be what they want even though stock is not bad either.

 

[cucvrus]

You should post the pictures. I want to see what a 5K perfect M1009 looks like right before it gets destroyed and devalued. It makes me proud to do all my CUCV's in reversible modifications if any. I mean I turned an M1009 into a pick up truck for 10 years and returned it to an M1009 for selling to a guy that wanted a stock clean good running M1009. Not my vehicle. But I would like as would others to see pictures of this 5K M1009. You may be turning a silk purse into a sows ear. Good Luck As Always. It is NOT my vehicle do as you wish. The value will drop quickly.

 

[Lostforwords]

Leroy diesel sells the timing gear set if he has any in stock. I put that and the roller rockers on my new motor and the roller rockers were defective. They seized up and bent some valves along with spreading the timing gear retainer. I had the heads rebuilt and put the stock rocker arms and timing chain back in.
motor ran quieter with roller rockers and timing gear but only ran for a few minutes before seizing up. The spacers between the roller rockers were to wide and I was not informed of the problem before running the motor. As soon as the motor came up to temp, the spacers swelled and locked up the rocker arms.
Now that I have seen how the timing gear set fails I am not a fan. There are two idler gears that float between the cam gear and crank gear. the metal retainers will spread the two gears when there is to much stress. This will cause the two gears to not float properly and thus effect your timing and cause the gears to wear prematurely. The timing chain works well and is much more reliable than the gear set.

don't worry about the overdrive unless you turbo the motor. Not enough HP to use the overdrive without a turbo.
you have to have a blazer rear seat, truck rear seats will not fit between fender wells.
change all that needs to be changed to fix any leaks. adding AC is good. you can lift it and go bigger tires if you want. just don't go over 33 inch tires with stock axles. 31's are actually best with stock axles.
dog head mod, sound deadening, fix all rust, fresh paint
I am not a fan of rino lining, rust can work its way under the liner and the metal will be gone before you realize it and you cannot remove the rino liner to fix the metal when needed.
My 2 cents, I have done about everything possible to my 1009 and encourage others to make their truck to be what they want even though stock is not bad either.

Thank you for the input! I'm just going to stick with the chain as the old saying goes "if it aint broke then, dont fix it!". I planned on sticking to stock tires but mud tires for off roading and such. Well some bad news =[

 

[Lostforwords]

You should post the pictures. I want to see what a 5K perfect M1009 looks like right before it gets destroyed and devalued. It makes me proud to do all my CUCV's in reversible modifications if any. I mean I turned an M1009 into a pick up truck for 10 years and returned it to an M1009 for selling to a guy that wanted a stock clean good running M1009. Not my vehicle. But I would like as would others to see pictures of this 5K M1009. You may be turning a silk purse into a sows ear. Good Luck As Always. It is NOT my vehicle do as you wish. The value will drop quickly.

Awe!!!!! I was keeping as OG as posible of course with the intent of keeping the M till she cant run nomore! But bad news =[

 

[Lostforwords]

Bad news someone else handed over 2k more then my offer and got her =[. I will know for sure once I get a call from the seller if that offer was legit if not the no M1009 for me. Which sucks @$$! I really wanted one, everywhere else I look all crapy and rusty with over 55k miles been molested, I just looked and some jack added 22 inch rims. I wanted to keep it as stock as I could on the outside, with only adding window tint, headlights to LED, winch. I honestly dont know where else to find such a good low mileage 95% rust free M1009. I guess I will check back in once I know. Unless anybody know of one that being sold in such condition???

 

[Lostforwords]

What would you guys pay for this puppie?

Anyone take a guess at what I was going to pay for it?

Thanks again everyone! I really hope I can find one soon and become apart of the steel soldiers family soon! I wont give up!

 

[richingalveston]

just worry about rust, don't worry about the mileage. due to the age, everything has to be replaced. IF the motor runs and it has no rust and the body is straight then you have a good truck. The mo

 

[richingalveston]

nothing super special about that one, it is worth 5 to 6k just because they are getting harder to find. many of these trucks have had the speedo replaced so I would not trust the mileage anyway.

 

[Lostforwords]

nothing super special about that one, it is worth 5 to 6k just because they are getting harder to find. many of these trucks have had the speedo replaced so I would not trust the mileage anyway.

Thank you for the reply, hopefully I can still get it but I have to wait till Tuesday. I'll be looking all over in the mean time.

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

Leroy diesel sells the timing gear set if he has any in stock. I put that and the roller rockers on my new motor and the roller rockers were defective. They seized up and bent some valves along with spreading the timing gear retainer. I had the heads rebuilt and put the stock rocker arms and timing chain back in.
motor ran quieter with roller rockers and timing gear but only ran for a few minutes before seizing up. The spacers between the roller rockers were to wide and I was not informed of the problem before running the motor. As soon as the motor came up to temp, the spacers swelled and locked up the rocker arms.
Now that I have seen how the timing gear set fails I am not a fan. There are two idler gears that float between the cam gear and crank gear. the metal retainers will spread the two gears when there is to much stress. This will cause the two gears to not float properly and thus effect your timing and cause the gears to wear prematurely. The timing chain works well and is much more reliable than the gear set.

don't worry about the overdrive unless you turbo the motor. Not enough HP to use the overdrive without a turbo.
you have to have a blazer rear seat, truck rear seats will not fit between fender wells.
change all that needs to be changed to fix any leaks. adding AC is good. you can lift it and go bigger tires if you want. just don't go over 33 inch tires with stock axles. 31's are actually best with stock axles.
dog head mod, sound deadening, fix all rust, fresh paint
I am not a fan of rino lining, rust can work its way under the liner and the metal will be gone before you realize it and you cannot remove the rino liner to fix the metal when needed.
My 2 cents, I have done about everything possible to my 1009 and encourage others to make their truck to be what they want even though stock is not bad either.

Hello Rich; surfing for 1009 CUCV timing chain discussions, and the search mode brought up your post from a while back. I had read in an article from the TM section the 1009 has a different 6.2 engine, and is actually a 1 Ton truck version of the 6.2. It wasn't a official manual, but a contributors compilation of fact data. I need to ask since I'm wanting to at least get a spare chain if needed later, if not swap it out while doing everything else to this recently bought M1009's engine. The odometer could have been rolled, it looks like it was not well cared for for many Alaskan winters. My question is that I'm not sure if the 1 ton engine has a different part number' than the domestic blazer, should I be trying to stick with one advertised (unable to find one anyway -for now) as a CUCV timing chain?
thanks
Russell

 

[nyoffroad]

The 6.2 is a 6.2, nothing different for a '1 ton', small difference for civvie vans like injectors and I know the injector lines were different in 1982 than 83 and up, but timing chains should all be the same

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

okay, I receive what you are saying, but you got me wondering if I was remembering accurately. Please allow me to clarify; this may help someone later:

[h=3]M1009[/h]
The M1009 is a 1984 K5 Blazer with a 1 Ton J code 6.2L instead of the normal C code 6.2L diesel and a TH400 3 speed automatic instead of the TH700R4. These modifications were done at the miiltary's request to make all engine/transmission components the same between the 1008 and 1009 trucks.

****The front springs are 3 inch wide 56 inch long and the rear springs are 2 1/2 inch wide 52 inch long. . *****

The M1009 has Corporate 10 bolt axles front and rear with 3.08 gear ratio and a Gov-Lok in the rear. The front axle is open.


Thanks for you input about the timing chain itself though, been looking for a double-roller chain and gears set.
They seem to be popular, but uncertain which of the several to choose? Just unfamiliar with the different engineering philosophies behind the variations in them for right now.
thanks again
russell

 

[reloader64]

The only difference between a C code engine and a J code engine is the intake manifold. The C code intake has a CDR valve (similar function to an EGR valve) that restricts airflow somewhat. Otherwise, the engines are all the same.

Scott

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

The only difference between a C code engine and a J code engine is the intake manifold. The C code intake has a CDR valve (similar function to an EGR valve) that restricts airflow somewhat. Otherwise, the engines are all the same.

Scott

Awesome -thanks Scott
russell

 

[chevymike]

The only difference between a C code engine and a J code engine is the intake manifold. The C code intake has a CDR valve (similar function to an EGR valve) that restricts airflow somewhat. Otherwise, the engines are all the same.

Scott

Actually both have a CDR valve, that is just normal for the GM diesels. The C code intake does have an EGR valve built into the manifold intake housing (look down where the air filter sits, it is very obvious the difference.

 

[nyoffroad]

Actually both have a CDR valve, that is just normal for the GM diesels. The C code intake does have an EGR valve built into the manifold intake housing (look down where the air filter sits, it is very obvious the difference.

And if anybody wants one of those C code manifolds I just happen to have one or two of them, I can even make a deal that's hard to turn down FREE! Why I've saved them all these tears I have no idea!