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My 1953 studibaker m35 has timkin rears. What i would like to know is are all the brake parts and seals the same as on the rockwells?
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Timkin rears
- Thread starter tigger
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Westech
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yes
hklvette
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looks like a rock to me. Don't see how they'd be any different.
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Thanks, I'm ripping out everything and putting in new on the brakes, dont want any problems stoping that thing on the hills around here. I think my fuel tank has a leak too. lol
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frodobaggins
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Some jb weld will fix that right up.
Flyingvan911
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Don't forget the duct tape!
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Yes all the parts should be the same, the only difference on the Timken akles is the keyway for the washer on the spindles is cut a little deeper, but not a concern at all. And the front axle will probably have the ball style shafts in it instead of the u-joint style ones
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Yea speeking of front axle, the guy I bought it from said the front would not engage, I think I found the problem under the seat. How hard is it to find a replacement?
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- 860
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That sucks, pretty obvious why it won't engage. The older ball style shafts are pretty cheap if you find some. You can upgrade to the u-joint style but you will need to change the seal retainer that is pressed into the end of the axle tube that holds the seal.
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I think I recall a older thread that said some of the small brake parts were different also.
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Brake shoe hold downs may be different and subject to failure.
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I've got a tank if you need one ( it sure looks like you do 
).
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Chevytruck
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Are you sure that isn't adaptive camouflage?
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Thought about the same......
If anyone finds this style pin (pic) holding the brake shoe in place - replace it with the new style hold-down hardware! See this old thread (sticky) here: View topic - Brake Inspections and Warnings :: Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite
G.
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Barrman
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As stated above, brake hold down pins compared to the newer bolts. CV joints in the front, the front brake line is routed differently to the backing plates. If you have to replace the brake hoses which I suggest you do, get the newer style front hoses and get rid of that silly double S shaped metal line on the front corners that breaks if you look at it wrong.
Replace all 5 brake hoses while you are working on it. One of those "pay me now or pay me later" deals. Common sense safety issue as well.
A multifuel tank will bolt right in for fuel. You will need 1 adaptor to screw the fuel line in however. I have found that a multifuel tank with the pump as far down as it will go still needs to have about 3" of fuel in it before the Gasser mechanical pump can pick it up. That is about 10 gallons of un usable fuel. Rig up a new pick up if you go the multifuel tank route. The in tank multifuel pump by the way puts out too much psi for the Holley carb to handle if you were thinking that.
Replace all 5 brake hoses while you are working on it. One of those "pay me now or pay me later" deals. Common sense safety issue as well.
A multifuel tank will bolt right in for fuel. You will need 1 adaptor to screw the fuel line in however. I have found that a multifuel tank with the pump as far down as it will go still needs to have about 3" of fuel in it before the Gasser mechanical pump can pick it up. That is about 10 gallons of un usable fuel. Rig up a new pick up if you go the multifuel tank route. The in tank multifuel pump by the way puts out too much psi for the Holley carb to handle if you were thinking that.