• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Tiny House On A Steel Soldier “Redux” Expedition Build

rbr0203

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
86
-1
6
Location
Kenosha WI
I am more than happy to share my space to someone in need. Passing by or in the area. You can't move in but your truck maintenance or build is acceptable.
Id take you up on that if i was closer and help you with your project but im not anywhere close. I swear if i bought another truck my wife might ask me for a seperation lol.
 

CARMAN

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
649
86
43
Location
Broad Run VA
Ofuro Tub dry fit looking good. Mega Bai minimalist drain gives the modern appearance I was striving for. Must decide now between Danish Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, or Wipe-On Poly for the finish.
I would be afraid of the seams would wick up water and swell, warp, rot, if you use an oil. Yes more natural but like outdoor wood furniture...I don't care what you treat it with, it only lasts so long. Maybe a marine varnish? I would coat the entire outside as well before installation.

You can rebuild it out of Acacia, teak, epay or eucalyptus. :idea: Just giving you crap. Looks great.
 

marchplumber

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,836
2,935
113
Location
Peoria, Illinois
WOW! Looks nice..................as a plumber, don't see wood "fixtures".......................MAYBE a barrel style dispenser, but tub is pretty unique......................I agree with CARMAN, marine clear varnish?
 

marchplumber

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,836
2,935
113
Location
Peoria, Illinois
Ofuro Tub dry fit looking good. Mega Bai minimalist drain gives the modern appearance I was striving for. Must decide now between Danish Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, or Wipe-On Poly for the finish.

That looks like a dang snug fit!! Most excellent sir!! (A person who works well with metal AND wood!) curious about bottom of drain also
 
120
0
11
Location
Philipsburg, Montana
I would be afraid of the seams would wick up water and swell, warp, rot, if you use an oil. Yes more natural but like outdoor wood furniture...I don't care what you treat it with, it only lasts so long. Maybe a marine varnish? I would coat the entire outside as well before installation.

You can rebuild it out of Acacia, teak, epay or eucalyptus. :idea: Just giving you crap. Looks great.
So your telling me I have to start over and use a different species of wood? I felt this build robbed me of a summer next to relaxing beach. I think I’m aging to fast to make it through round two. All fun aside, I agree with you that the tub and kitchen counter have a great ability to wick, swell, and rot. I’m going to contact West Systems Epoxy about thier 105 epoxy, finnishing with a marine varnish or Vermeister zero voc poly.
 
120
0
11
Location
Philipsburg, Montana
That looks like a dang snug fit!! Most excellent sir!! (A person who works well with metal AND wood!) curious about bottom of drain also
I have to pull the tub out to Epoxy and Foam It Green foam the floor and to build supports for the drain. I’ll take some pictures of the drain assembly then.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,394
178
63
Location
Frisco Texas
I’m wondering if a penetrating sealer first, then an epoxy on top (is there a penetrating epoxy). My thinking is the penetrating sealer protects the wood against the potential for small cracks in the epoxy from flexing that is bound to happen from heat, cold, kids, grownups, etc.

I dont work work with wood too much, would have to find two compounds that would bond, or at least not separate. Love the tub. It’s a brilliant idea. I’m sure you will find something that will work. Been following the story from the first, and on IG. (Just commented on the tub on IG.)
 
120
0
11
Location
Philipsburg, Montana
I’m wondering if a penetrating sealer first, then an epoxy on top (is there a penetrating epoxy). My thinking is the penetrating sealer protects the wood against the potential for small cracks in the epoxy from flexing that is bound to happen from heat, cold, kids, grownups, etc.

I dont work work with wood too much, would have to find two compounds that would bond, or at least not separate. Love the tub. It’s a brilliant idea. I’m sure you will find something that will work. Been following the story from the first, and on IG. (Just commented on the tub on IG.)
Thanks for stopping by again. Saw your hunting photos on Instagram and I was impressed. Just bought my Benelli R1 .338 with a Burris Eliminator 3 scope and as you would expect where we live in Philipsburg Montana hunting big game is a way of life. I did find a true penetrating epoxy from Total Boat Epoxy with a supporting varnish system, but I need to do a bunch more research before I commit to anything. If ever in Montana I just bought hunting property at 8174ft in the Flint Creek Range, I’m going to setup a permanent hunting, recreation camp using my 4 HDT Airbeam tents. The Flint Creek Range has 60,000 thousand acres and the camp is deep in the heart of fun country. I bought a set of Mattracks for my H1 so the area can be accessed during late season. Always looking for ideas for setting up the perfect hunting camp.
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks