Tips for a detailed resto

[Iron7]

Wanted to share a couple small ideas I use on restoring things. I have a '43 Willys' MB nearly finished and I found a neat way to restore the small nuts and bolts on the old girl. When the Jeep was built, the nuts and bolts were blackened during their manufaturing process for rust protection, often folks will paint them flat black and call it a day but, we all know that the paint usually chips easily and it doesn't look right. Spray paint is actually a mixture of chemicals to mimic paint but is more dies than anything else. By using 'Tool-Black' or 'Insta-Blak' you can instantly get the needed results you need. Try doing a Google search or go to this link to buy yourself a sample kit for only $37: Black Oxide Equipment Cold & Hot Black Oxide Process - EPI
The other tip is to use a neat spray paint I use on my weapons, Brownells sells a paint called 'Aluma-Hyde II' for $8.95 and it comes in flat or semi-gloss. This paint is unique because it is tough as nails! If you have an air filter, starter, radiator or whatever, you won't have to worry about scratching it so easily. The paint takes 24 hours to fully harden but after a few minutes it's able to be handled provided it doesn't have a zillion layers on it! Here's a link to find that: BROWNELLS : ALUMA-HYDE® - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools_
Hope this helps you guys out, I wish I would've known about this long ago.

 

[redcoat54th]

Cool tips, many thanks. 'Can always learn something from sombody most days!

 

[Iron7]

So glad to help someone! Like you, there is a right way and a wrong way to restore MV's, some people think that a restoration is nothing more than applying a coat of OD green paint and go hog wild under the hood with the OD paint! It's my goal to do things as accurate as I'm able and within my small budget.
Sometimes I like to go in my garage, open the hood of the MB and just look at the beauty of my efforts, does a man good. I retored another WWII Willys a few years back but sold it when I got word that I was to be assigned to Baumholder, Germany so this time around I intend to do it as pretty as I can.
Another technique I use is a MAPP gas torch for all kinds things. When a bolt or nut is too stuborn to come off, I heat up the nut to near red hot then spray it with penetrating oil until it cools a bit then repeat getting the nut hot again and spray more oil on it, at this point it should come off with little effort. What you're doing here is burning out the crud and rust between the bolt and nut and expanding the metal in the process. I use this on 'captured' back nuts where it's nearly impossible to replace. I alsways used spray lithium grease when I install new screw/bolts to slow the rusting.
I also use a lot of stainless steal screws and bolts for obvious reasons but I can't blacken them unless I use the 'Aluma-Hyde II' spray paint. I try to keep my hardware organized so I can find the right washer or screw quickly. If I can assist you directly, please feel free to email me.

 

[NC_Pinz]

How does the Aluma-Hyde handle sunlight? Also, what types of metals are you applying it to? I'm going to be painting my Pinzgauer next year, and would like some durable options for small bits and pieces. Thanks.

 

[Scarecrow1]

Man these are great tips and I do take notes. Like many in these times I've locked down on the spending an I don't have a MV to work on now so I learn research and take notes . When I'm able I will have a a book compiled of tips to refer to lol. Thanks guys and I may have a tip for you too . I started using a antisiege I know I spelled it wrong but its cold and I'm not digging in the shop to find it now lol .any way .I don't use it every where but it comes in handy for a lot of places I know I will have to be getting in to later .I also use A Dielectric Grease on bulbs and any connections I use wire nuts on . It also will solve many house whole light bulb problems . Thanks guys

 

[Iron7]

NC_Pinz, The Aluma-Hyde II is perfect for almost all metal surfaces except flexable plastics which most paints have difficulty sticking to. The Aluma-Hyde II is very resistant to fading due to its epoxy base, that's the main reason why it takes so much time to cure (24 hours).

Scarecrow1; so glad I could be of some use to you! lol. Another technique I use is keeping a MAPP gas torch within arms reach at all times! lol. I use it to loosen rusted/frozen nuts and bolts that I need to re-use in the restoration (especially the Ford script and Willys marked bolts on the Willy's MB), I heat up the nut with the torch until it's near red in color, I then let it cool down to about 150 degrees or so and spray on some penetrating oil (don't breath the fumes), let it soak in for a minute then re-heat it with the torch, after about 3-4 times, the rust or crud that's seizing the nut is burned out and will come off much easier. Of course, be sure the nut/bolt you just heated up is not a torsion critical bolt, any temper the bolt had is drastically reduced.

 

[Stan Leschert]

This is why I lurk on this site. Tips from peole who have tried things, and in the process have got the knowledge that I need. I can eliminate a lot of costly (time or $$). Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I appreciate it!

 

[GoHot229]

Some time ago, I had a 29 Model AA 1 ton truck that actually was my daily driver. Often times My landlord (with a 62 T Bird, restored) and I attended the local car shows. Mostly in fun, but on the off chance of a trophy. There were a couple tricks we used along the way to camoflage imperfections, and believe it or not one of the more usefull things for various black pieces was a permanant 'Sharpie' marker to touch up little wrench marks and such.
These processes you mention, I didn't know they existed, other than gun blueing. It's good to know, and I can only "IMAGINE' what kind of restorations your putting out with such attention to detail.
It would indeed be cool to see your Willys in pictures, but we can wait a bit longer.
That is.......only a short bit longer............