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Tips for inspecting a generator before purchase

OldWarHorse

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I am looking to purchase a generator, hopefully a MEP 003A. I have been reading and searching all the posts I can find for the last several weeks concerning generators but I cannot find any recommendations on how to preview one to determine any issues.
I am not going to a GL auction, but probably a Craigslist, Ebay, or best option a purchase from a fellow SS member. I don't want to base my purchase on the condition of the paint job!
What are some basic guidelines and easy things to identify on an inspection?
I am not a mechanic nor do I play one on TV.

there are obvious things such as does it start? But what other things do you look for when you are a prospective buyer?

if there is a recent thread, please vector me in,

thanks
 

Ratch

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There's probably a thread already, but something important to test is how well it will hold a load.
Obviously, you're going to make sure it runs, but once running, you'd want to make sure it's producing the correct voltage and holding the frequency stable.
Those alone don't mean it works great just yet, though. It could still overheat or bog while loaded lightly, so you'd want to do a load test (through the output lugs, not the convenience receptacle).
It's not always easy to do this at the sellers site, but what I'd suggest is wiring 3 4500w water heater elements in series, and placing them dipped in a bucket of water. Then wire them to the 240v lugs, set the reconnect switch to 120/240 1-phase, start the genset, set freq to 60hz, and turn the breaker on. Let it run until the water is too hot. If it holds frequency and doesn't strain to run the load after a few minutes, it's probably in good shape. This is a very rudimentary test, but it will load the unit above it's minimum rating, and provide better info than watching it unloaded.

There are lots of places to kick the tires on these sets in addition to a load test, too. And really, I've never load tested a unit in front of a buyer or a seller, and I've had pretty good luck in never having a unit that can't perform as designed. Gen head, that is. Engine is another herd of cats...
 

Isaac-1

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Another issue here is what do you plan to use it for, and do you care if it is fully functional? For example the panel frequency meters are a common failure point (well actually it is usually the frequency transducers that the meters connect to), these tend to be very expensive to replace, however for the typical user a $20 Kill-a-watt P4400 meter plugged into a convenience outlet works as an acceptable substitute, or we have a member here making drop in digital frequency meters that bypass the transducer. The same holds true about bypassing the phase selector switch if you are only ever going to need 120/240 single phase power.
 

Isaac-1

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Also don't fall into the low hour meter trap, often these hour meters would be replaced when they stopped working, not just when the units had a major rebuild / reset, instead use the visible condition, ease of starting, ability to pull a rated load, etc. as a guide.
 

rustystud

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Also don't fall into the low hour meter trap, often these hour meters would be replaced when they stopped working, not just when the units had a major rebuild / reset, instead use the visible condition, ease of starting, ability to pull a rated load, etc. as a guide.
Yes, just as Isaac said. The hour meters can be misleading. I look for a rebuild tag or reset tag. That will tell you at least how many months or years it has been since it was gone through. Like they say " condition is everything " .
 

OldWarHorse

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Good points. If there is no tag from a reset, can I assume it has never been through that process, or that it might have been removed?
I have learned through this forum that the Reset is done either at a predetermined time / hours or when it needed significant repair.
I would think that Reset would give a little more reassurance it has been inspected(at least once) and problems at that time corrected. Is that a good assumption? Obviously doesn't mean there aren't any new problems since reset.

On a different question about repairs. Aren't many of these run with Onan engines and since many RV generators use Onan, would a RV repair shop be a source for mechanical repairs?

thanks again for all the responses and great information,
 

Chainbreaker

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Also, don't be fooled by fresh paint (a simple rattle-can restoration), low hours on hobbs as mentioned before, or a new ID plate. That old saying "Beauty is only skin deep" applies in checking out a generator. A few quick checks I would do in addition to what is already suggested is:

1. Take along a flashlight and after removing the fuel strainer in the tank (it rotates and lifts out) inspect the inside of the tank and the fuel that is in it. Look for clean fuel and no significant pitting, rust or contaminants in the bottom of of tank. If you find any problems there its not a deal killer but a price negotiation point (price replacement tanks on eBay, etc. beforehand).

2. Pull the oil dipstick and verify oil level and condition (milky/grey usually indicates water in oil), then look at the underside of the dipstick cap is it rusty inside? If so, the internals of the engine may be rusty from sitting and not being run routinely to prevent condensation/moisture build up.

3. Ask the owner if he minds if you take a look inside the control box after disconnecting a battery lead. Be sure to take along a quarter or flat blade screw driver to use to open the 3 twist lock screws on the top of the control panel faceplate. It will then swing down revealing the internals in the control module. Give it a good visual - look for any signs of corrosion on terminals, broken terminal ends, blackened or burnt components on circuitry, any signs of arcing, cut wires, etc.

4. Since your looking at private sales be sure to ask if there are any spare parts included with the sale. Spare filters, glow plugs, fuel pumps, injectors, etc. are worth something if included or otherwise negotiated for in the final price you are willing to pay.
 
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Keith_J

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Lift the engine stop solenoid to make sure the fuel control lever follows it, if not that is a sure sign the injection pump needs attention. The governor spring force when the engine isn't running is maximum.
 

Isaac-1

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To answer these questions, it is unlikely that you will find a unit that has not been reset at least once regardless if a tag is present, they are out there, mostly ones that spent their entire lives in storage (prepositioned resupply for a war in Europe, etc.) However the MEP-002a and MEP-003a's are powered by a militarized version of the Onan DJB and DJC engine, production of these engines stopped around 1994 with very few produced the last couple years, so even if you get a "new" never reset one these are likely to be 20+ years old and may be as much as 40 years old so in need of some parts due to dry rot. There are also a few units with build dates around 2001-2006 there being built by various contractors from spare parts. Having said that a reset unit should be considered almost as good as a fresh factory unit, the reset involves a complete engine rebuild, including resleeving the cylinders and recertification of all components.

I have a MEP-002a and a MEP-003a bough from GL, both are a complete mystery to me on history, the 1980 build date MEP-002a which showed about 2000 hours on the meter was stenciled with "Major Service" dated in 2008, your guess is as good as mine on what that means, however I suspect it had not been ran since that "Major Service" work as it has a brand new fuel tank, new fuel pumps, new hoses, and what looked like a new starter on it (new enough to have a label with a web address), and all fresh filters, it did however have a problem with the voltage regulator that I ended up solving by swapping in a known good circuit board after unsuccessfully trying to repair it with new transistors. (it would run good for a couple of minutes then the voltage would spike). This MEP-002a otherwise runs great, and was fully functional until the frequency meter went out on it a few months ago, it however is a bit of an ugly duckling as the CARC camo paint job was brushed not sprayed on.

My MEP-003a is another real mystery with about 850 hours showing on the meter, it too had voltage issues when I bought it, in this case the problem took a fair amount of hair pulling to track down, it seems someone had installed one of the control transformers backwards/upside down and it had fried. (a cheap enough fix once the problem was found), and I am still working getting the engine to run right and pull full load, but I am getting there. This generator lacks many of the markings and data plates we expect to see, and is painted plain green CARC. Even the expected Diesel Fuel Only stencil is missing. The only markings were a unit marking and Generator #3, the little reference I can find online about the unit implies it belonged to a special Air National Guard rapid deployment unit that seemed to specialize in deploying after natural disasters. I suspect this one sat up for a while as I think the unit it belonged to was disbanded about 10 years ago, which may account for the engine issues.

As to your question about parts, there are some you might still get from Onan, but expect them to be expensive and in limited supply, they seem to be doing their best the last few years to kill off the parts supply for the older J series generators so they can sell new generators in their place. The J series engine was a real work horse, and many J series civilian generators are still in service much to Onan's current managements dislike.

Ike
 

Keith_J

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Yes, since Cummins took over Onan in the 1990s, legacy support will be decreasing. Plus with ever increasing emission regulations, many older engines will be foundering regardless of make.

The 002/003 generator engines are lightly loaded so they should last a long time given proper care. For example, pistons have four rings and are very long for the diameter, keeping wear to a minimum.
 

OldWarHorse

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Crestview, FL
Thanks for all the insight and recommendations.
I have found one fairly close to me so I will be going to look at it soon.

i am confident I am much better prepared to look for a Genset with your responses.

thanks,
 

FloridaAKM

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I had a chance to get two 88' MEP-002s locally with a trailer, but they looked to be not in great shape. One had the battery box removed & the battery cables cut off @ the starter, plus the power cables were cut off out side of the switch box. The other unit was not much better & both of them were very low hours on the clocks...less than 20 hours each! I left them for another buyer to deal with due to the info here. Missing wiring is another mess I want to avoid on top of other long term storage issues~!
 

OldWarHorse

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Crestview, FL
I just discovered a previous thread titled "Calling all generator owners" that has a lot of additional information along with all these great responses for inspecting at the time of purchase. I don't know how to link to it, but it can be found in a search with those keywords.
my apologies for not finding it sooner, but this thread has expanded and not duplicated the information.
 
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