Tire Balancing Beads in Beadlock MRAP Wheel and Tire Combo

[cbrTodd]

I've done a ton of searching, but I can't seem to find answers about some specific aspects of using tire balancing beads in MRAP wheels. I am in the process of putting MRAP wheels with Michelin XZL tires onto my M109A3. According to one of the gentlemen that sold me some wheels and tires, they have the internal beadlock that looks like a donut that clamps in between the two beads of the tire and the two halves of the wheel. I have found where people have used the balancing beads with the 395 tires with success, but I have more specific questions related to their use with the internal beadlocks.

First, does the internal beadlock interfere with the ability to use the balancing beads? As in, do they tend to get wedged in between the bead and the beadlock and cause damage to either component?

Second, if this is an acceptable application for balancing beads, can they be put in through the MRAP 90 degree type valve stem (and subsequently pass through the beadlock ring into the air cavity in the tire), or would I have to take one half off of the wheel and put the balancing beads directly in the tire cavity? I'd like to avoid this task if at all possible so I don't have to replace the O-rings. If anyone out there has already done this, I'd sure like to hear from you! Thanks in advance!

 

[peashooter]

I am not a tire expert but I decided to not use balancing beads. I was checking out some of these wheels that were broken down and still had the runflat inside it, but their was all sorts of black tar/grease stuff coating the inside of the tires, PERHAPS its part of the runflat system (like a lubricant to keep the runflat from tearing up the tire when it looses air pressure?) I figured that the beads would get stuck to that and potentially make the balance problem worse and then impossible to get out. I dont know if all of them are like that or not and I dont want to break mine down to find out. here is a link to what I'm doing: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74670-Balancing-Tires&p=1263962&viewfull=1#post1263962
My personal opinion is that the best bang for the buck DIY style is to balance them like the link above. Call a few truck tire centers and see if there machines can do a 46" tire that weighs about 450 lbs, never hurts to ask. I couldnt find a shop around me, but I know they are out there.
Regarding your questions though, I "THINK" that you dont need to worry about the beads getting stuck between the beadlock and the tire bead. That should be a super tight fit, and centrifigal motion & gravity should always keep the beads away from the bead area. I also think that you should be able to get beads through the valve stem okay, especially these large bore ones. I would suggest you do a little more research into the possible goo that is inside the tire though before putting beads in there..... that could be a bad combination. Let us know if you find anything out.

 

[Scarecrow1]

I don't know for sure but I have 1400x20's and was told to use the air soft beads it would have to be broken down. There is a product called equal that can be blown into the stem . With the size tires your talking about they could run you over forty dollars a tire to balance . This is what I was quoted locally from a commercial tire company. I haven't had time to let them check them out yet. ......

 

[silverstate55]

If it has the beadlocks, those are just inserts to keep the beads against the wheel rims in the event of low or no air pressure, so the tire doesn't come off the bead while rolling. Balancing beads should work just fine, I don't see how they could get between the tire bead & the beadlock. I have some of these on my Deuce's rear tires, and they sure make mounting 395s easy! I haven't seen any with any tar nor lubricants that would trap the balancing beads, you should be OK to use them. If they will roll down inside the valve stem, you can slowly add them without demounting the tire...if they need a little motivation, just give them a little shot of low air pressure to help them through...but usually gravity will do the work for you as long as there aren't any obstructions nor burrs inside the valve stem itself.

ETA: I should add that as long as the inside of the tire & wheel remain clean & free from anything that would cause the balancing beads to hang up/catch/stick, it should be OK.

Now runflat inserts, those are an entirely different animal. I have XZLs on the front of my truck with runflat inserts. They ARE coated with some kind of tar-like substance that would prevent using balancing beads of any kind in these tires. I use 24-oz cans of Slime (puncture sealant) on these, as it doesn't stick to the tar substance and helps dynamically balance the tire. The drawback is that when you have to demount the tire, you may have to deal with all that Slime inside the tire (unless you're replacing it & don't care).

Just my $0.02.

 

[peashooter]

cbrTodd has new (never mounted) 12bolt MRAP wheels.... I THINK they all have runflats, so SLIME is probably the safe bet. I guess you can always mount the wheels, start letting air out of a front one and see what happens, if it does have the run flat you should know it pretty quick as the rim will eventually quit dropping and should stay a good 8+" from the ground.

 

[cbrTodd]

Thanks a bunch for the help, guys! From what you are telling me, it looks like my wheels and tires most likely have the run flats in them, making the tire slime my only option. I know the balancing beads won't work as intended unless the inside of the tire is clean and dry, and it sounds like mine probably wouldn't be, as intended by the manufacturer. I really do appreciate the guidance!