Tire life expectancy

[Squirt-Truck]

M54-A2 consumes fronts at the same rate, just you are starting with 11:00-20's.

 

[Varyag]

I cleaned brad out of the rest of his "new" tires. He has ones with good tread on them left but most have weather checking. not bad for runners but I would avoid putting them on steer wheels.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

I GUESS TIRE LIFE IS BASED ON WHAT YOU DO WITH IT. I OWN A 1952 STUDEBAKER AND IT HAS TIRES DATED FOR 1954 ON IT AND IT STILL RUNS AND DRIVES. YES THE TIRES ARE CRACKED IN PLENTY OF PLACES. BUT THEY STILL HAVE DEEP TREAD AND INTACT WITH TUBES INSIDE THE TIRES ARE 9.00 X 20 I TALK ABOUT
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M35 LET THEM ROLL

 

[Josh]

Capslock is not nessassary. And You can expect to replace the front tires twice for every set of rears you go threw. Or you could rotate them around but I'm to lazy to do that.

 

[emr]

25000 miles if U rotate them and take care of them, thats what I got on the last set, as for the front tires wearing, U do need to rotste tires, and check for toe in and out, like in a guzzilion threads, measure em. the tires front and back use a stick but do something dont just rui em, its not the trucks fault, its all about maintenence. there is absolutly no reason to have em last such a short life, its all up to the owner.... good luck, just like the rest of the truck, tires need to be looked at and milage logged and choose a way to rotate em, that they all get a chance to move around, and always cross the fronts to what ever rear U want, draw out a diagram of rotation I did and my tires lasted a looong time and gave great service..... and cover em when stored even with a sun block i say... good luck....

 

[JungleBiker]

I was at a small MV show in Devon, (part of England) a couple years ago and there was a nicely restored CCKW there that looked like it was on its original tires, they were so badly rotted. I don't know how he got an MOT (mandatory safety inspection) with those tires. So yeah, it was running and rolling, but seemed like a bad idea to me.

How long can I expect my Michelin X radials to last on my M813A1 on mostly dirt roads (no gravel)? I've been a little surprised at how fast all 6 of them seem to be wearing, but this is pretty much my first experience with a truck bigger than a Ford F150.

 

[airmech3839]

After driving my deuce 30+ miles a day 5 days a week for a year I have found this....

Not counting flats.. I have had to replace the front tires 5months in. I changed the shocks and now I am at 7 months and have more than 1/2 tread on the front steering axle. I have noticed that the fwd outer tire on the LH rear is rubbing to a flat tread. I drive on pavement only and carry little weight at all if any in the back. I would recomend getting the lockout hubs on at least the fwd rear axle and possibly put a set on the steering axle. It will also improve fuel economy.... I have had 2 flats since getting it and I exchange mine with wheel and all for 90% or better at $70 each. It would cost me $150 each for whole assy if I didnt have the exchange. That is with a local guy who remanns these for foregin sale. 100 bucks for rubber only for new is not bad.

just my 2 cents

 

[BEASTMASTER]

i;ve heard that rule of thumb is you lose 1/32" of tire for every 1k miles. i've got 7k miles on the sneakers on my beast. still plenty of rubber left.

 

[kc5mzd]

If you keep them aired up all the way it will drastically improve your mileage. I would recommend reading the tire and inflating then to the rated pressure on the tire for the fronts and inflate the rears to 5psi less. The tire specs have changed some since the 55psi tag was placed on the dash. Also the 55psi rule was written by someone that is not concerned with tire wear.

 

[m16ty]

Any members in northrn Illinois able to help me with fuel problems on my duce?

Just a friendly suggestion, you may be better off to start a new thread than to ask about a fuel problem in a tire thread. You'll get more responses that way.

 

[Gunfreak25]

I have done some searching on the subject here but I cannot seem to find a definitive answer on the subject. Many here have mentioned either installing lockout hubs on the front axle or simply removing the front driving axle for increased tire life and fuel economy.

I don't know if my truck differs very much from the Multifuel in this area, but on my M211 the truck is normally powered by both rear axles on smooth and even terrain. The front axle on my M211 engages automatically when you take it off road and any one of the rear wheels sense 2% slippage. It is essentially a Sprag type 1 speed transfer case. The lever in the cab under the seat is not a "transfer lever" as you guys are probably used to, but rather a "PTO lever" for operating auxiliary equipment. The M211 DID have a low range but it was in a reduction unit on the back of the transmission. The shift tower in the middle of the cab floor had two sides, on the left were your high gears and on the right side were your lo w gears.

A guy I was talking with in Washington said he disconnected his front and rearmost drive shaft for just middle axle driving. He said on the highway he gets 12MPG as his M211 has a 455 Olds big block and TH400 tranny in it as well. What would you guys recommend? I don't mind replacing the fronts every couple years, especially if I can get them for $50 a piece. I am more concerned with squeezing a little more MPG's into the beast.