Tire o-ring replacement for leak.

[ldmack3]

So far so good, still no pressure loss. If all is well tomorrow I will mount it and retorque all fasteners.

 

[Floridianson]

I found the only problem was the new distorted nuts and something with enough power to get close to correct torque. Did mine with plenty of oil on threads and one inch air impact and big air line plus big compressor. Last ones done with Milwaukee M18 one inch drive # 4 power setting. That is why I like to use two non distorted nuts first to pull the ring down even and tight as my tool can go. When I go to put on the distorted nuts with air or Milwaukee I do not stop till the nut is seated with everything I can get with with tool I am using. Never had to go back and retorque. My 3/4" drive M18 does not put out enough torque to do the job. I wash off oil on all threads / wheel then after wheel / tire install on truck let dry and paint, touch up all studs / wheel.

 

[HDN]

I did mine with a 1/2" DeWalt electric impact turned all the way up. I tightened the nuts in an alternating pattern until they wouldn't move any more, then checked them with a 1/4" torque wrench through a 1" 1:64 torque multiplier. The only thing I didn't do was paint the studs, which in hindsight I probably should've given them a light coat of paint. Fortunately I'm not planning on driving in the salt and they have a little never-seize on them, so I think they should be good until next spring anyway.

 

[ldmack3]

Ail I've got is a 1/2" Crapsman which at full power takes one full second to turn the nut 1 revolution before it bottoms put. Once they quit turning I switch to a 5' 3/4" torque wrench and step up the settings. Should probably get a torque amplifier but man do I sleep well after doing one wheel!

 

[HDN]

Ail I've got is a 1/2" Crapsman which at full power takes one full second to turn the nut 1 revolution before it bottoms put. Once they quit turning I switch to a 5' 3/4" torque wrench and step up the settings. Should probably get a torque amplifier but man do I sleep well after doing one wheel!

Did you chase the clamp ring studs with a die? That makes working with the nuts so much easier. I learned that one the hard way

I highly recommend a torque multiplier. You can get a Chinese-made one off Amazon for about $80, then you'll have to find the 1" English sockets you need. I spent $100 at Harbor Freight and got a set of impact-grade ones, so I should be set for everything The best part about the 1:64 torque multiplier is that you can use a 1/4" torque wrench on it with an adapter, so you don't have to use a 4'-long torque wrench for everything on the wheels. That's actually how I set the torque on all the nuts in the project - 90 or so inch-pounds input became 450 foot-pounds output!

One of the things I did with the torque multiplier is make a female-female adapter allowing me to use a 1/2" drive with the 1" drive on the multiplier. I did this so that I could run a DeWalt 10-amp hammer drill (no hammer, low gear setting) to get the toughest nuts off in a timely manner.

 

[ldmack3]

A week mounted and on the ground with no leaks.

 

[ldmack3]

Started on my #2 leaker.
Wow. Should have bought a torque multiplier when I bought the truck.

 

[HDN]

Once you're done, It'll be a super good feeling knowing that you won't have to put air in the tires to drive it anywhere. Just hop in and go

 

[ldmack3]

This wheel was a beyoch to get separated seemingly due to rust. I've already used a wire wheel and sandpaper,
I plan on Rusty metal primer and Rustoleum Rust top coat.
Any concern with wheel failure and explosive decompression? Leaking down I can handle.

 

[HDN]

Holy cow that's a lot of rust! Did your truck swim in the ocean or something? I'd brush off as much of that rust as possible, paint it as you planned, and try reassembly.

The sealing surface on the clamp ring doesn't look terrible. How does the seal channel on the rim look? Wire brushing and painting them should help smooth them out.

Did your other wheel look this bad? Mine had almost no rust on the rim surface the tire covers, even where the turret valve grommet goes.

 

[ldmack3]

I've actually already brushed it..and chipped some. Here is a pic I forgot to attach. This is my first off of the aft axle. The wheel on the left mid was nothing like this. I'm tempted to pull the LH aft as the aft axle looks like it hasn't been disturbed in some time.
Hell I might just go ahead and rebuild all 4. I've got the orings for them.

 

[HDN]

That can be a tough call. On one hand, if the others aren't leaking, I'd be tempted to leave them be until they need a tire replacement. On the other hand, if they're that corroded, it might be a good idea to clean the rims up and paint them. I had to do all of mine anyway because they were all leaking and the tires weren't in good shape.

 

[Crf450x]

This wheel was a beyoch to get separated seemingly due to rust. I've already used a wire wheel and sandpaper,
I plan on Rusty metal primer and Rustoleum Rust top coat.
Any concern with wheel failure and explosive decompression? Leaking down I can handle.

If you're planning on rustoleum rusty metal primer, try a small spot first. I tried it on some rusty metal a while back and it was terrible. I had to clean it off and start over. I have used permatex rust treatment spray then normal primer/paint and it seems to work much better.

 

[HDN]

If you're planning on rustoleum rusty metal primer, try a small spot first. I tried it on some rusty metal a while back and it was terrible. I had to clean it off and start over. I have used permatex rust treatment spray then normal primer/paint and it seems to work much better.

I used the brush-on Permatex rust treatment on the first rim I did, only to find out after taking the rim apart while troubleshooting a leak, the Krylon paint I was using was flaking off along with the rust treatment coating underneath. It seems that this is too heavy duty of an application for the Permatex stuff, so I just wirewheeled, primed with Rustoleum automotive primer, then painted with Krylon Fusion.

 

[ldmack3]

I'm using Rustoleum..so far. I'm out and have some other rust primer I'm going to try.
As far a s breaking down the LH aft wheel. No effing way after the trouble I'm seeing with the spare. I've replace the wheel cylinder, cleaned and repacked the bearings, replaced the seal and adjusted the brakes, That's it.