To get my HMMWV (M1097A2) in good running order... need help.

[peggrw]

It actually turned out to be the driver side hood bumper. Just to test it, I put a thin piece of cardboard there and it stopped. So, I'll need to figure out how to keep the noise stopped forever

Was scrolling to the end of this post to tell you the sound was likely the drivers side rubber bumper that the hood sits on. Chased the same horrible squeaking sound for a day until I found it. Put a little grease on that rubber bumper and the sound went away. Three new rubber bumpers are about $29.

 

[DEA AK]

Was scrolling to the end of this post to tell you the sound was likely the drivers side rubber bumper that the hood sits on. Chased the same horrible squeaking sound for a day until I found it. Put a little grease on that rubber bumper and the sound went away. Three new rubber bumpers are about $29.

I did see a few, even hummer h1 bumpers which had a rounded top... those might be a good idea.

 

[DEA AK]

Question for anyone...

I was running my m1097a2 without a brake switch (and therefore the tranny plug that is connected via the brake switch)... it would shift just fine.

I plug in the tranny plug (whatever you call it) and it goes into limp mode. Unplug the from the brake switch and it shifts fine.

Anyone have this issue before?

 

[Gcelevator]

Question for anyone...

I was running my m1097a2 without a brake switch (and therefore the tranny plug that is connected via the brake switch)... it would shift just fine.

I plug in the tranny plug (whatever you call it) and it goes into limp mode. Unplug the from the brake switch and it shifts fine.

Anyone have this issue before?
Torque converter or trans.ission switch not adjusted/set up correctly?

 

[DEA AK]

I will have to find info on that. - thanks

 

[Mogman]

Question for anyone...

I was running my m1097a2 without a brake switch (and therefore the tranny plug that is connected via the brake switch)... it would shift just fine.

I plug in the tranny plug (whatever you call it) and it goes into limp mode. Unplug the from the brake switch and it shifts fine.

Anyone have this issue before?

What code/codes does the TCM report?
If you are not already you need to start reading the codes and using the troubleshooting supplement.
I would venture to say you are getting a 37 or a 38, brake switch stuck on or off, you are likely not driving it far enough to get a code with the switch disconnected, you should eventually get a code and the trans should drop into limp mode with the switch disconnected but as the supplement states the criteria must be met 7 times before dropping into limp mode.

 

[DEA AK]

What code/codes does the TCM report?
If you are not already you need to start reading the codes and using the troubleshooting supplement.
I would venture to say you are getting a 37 or a 38, brake switch stuck on or off, you are likely not driving it far enough to get a code with the switch disconnected, you should eventually get a code and the trans should drop into limp mode with the switch disconnected but as the supplement states the criteria must be met 7 times before dropping into limp mode.

My trans light has never worked, I will have to pull it to see if its burned out or if there's another issue. thank you

 

[Mogman]

My trans light has never worked, I will have to pull it to see if its burned out or if there's another issue. thank you

Top priority for anyone with a 4L80E should be a working trans light, it is absolutely essential in troubleshooting and helping to insure you do not fry the transmission.

 

[DEA AK]

Just heard about parasitic draws on vehicles and one video mentioned at some rate its okay or whatnot.

As shown in the pic, I have a kill switch in between my batteries. I tested it today by removing the neg cable from the rear battery. With the kill switch open (no power to truck), it read -.11 Then, with the kill switch closed (power to truck), it read -.26

Questions are...

a. Apparently my kill switch isn't doing its job if I still have a draw? So I must need to place the kill switch someplace else?

b. How much of a draw is okay to have? Any?

Thank you,
David

 

[Mogman]

Just heard about parasitic draws on vehicles and one video mentioned at some rate its okay or whatnot.

As shown in the pic, I have a kill switch in between my batteries. I tested it today by removing the neg cable from the rear battery. With the kill switch open (no power to truck), it read -.11 Then, with the kill switch closed (power to truck), it read -.26

Questions are...

a. Apparently my kill switch isn't doing its job if I still have a draw? So I must need to place the kill switch someplace else?

b. How much of a draw is okay to have? Any?

Thank you,
David

To completely isolate the batteries it takes two switches, you can leave the one between the batteries and add one to the 12V leads that connect between the batteries

 

[DEA AK]

To completely isolate the batteries it takes two switches, you can leave the one between the batteries and add one to the 12V leads that connect between the batteries

Never thought about that connection, that make sense - thank you very much.

 

[peggrw]

Never thought about that connection, that make sense - thank you very much.

Yes, the newer trucks are a different animal. My 1993 M1097 doesn't have a dual voltage regulator, or a Transmission Control Module that requires 12V center-tap. I checked for parasitic draw a couple days ago given winter is now here, and because batteries will be batteries. Only measured 4 milli-amps. Basically nothing. Even when I re-connect my Orion 24V to 12V converter I only get 10 milliamps. The converter is only enabled with the run switch but a tiny amount of current is still used when off. The average car will use 5-10 times that much when off because current is required to operate the key and security systems, keep the radio presets enabled, and other necessary computer functions.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Are you using the mulitmeter correctly? Drawing shows meter selected in the 10 amp range (ok), test leads not position in the 10 amp jack.

On the surface (picture) something not right in the procedure. (generally to measure current) If your are using your Camotek controller? off is OFF. NO leakage drain there.

That's my to cents worth or volts, CAMO

 

[DEA AK]

Yes, the newer trucks are a different animal. My 1993 M1097 doesn't have a dual voltage regulator, or a Transmission Control Module that requires 12V center-tap. I checked for parasitic draw a couple days ago given winter is now here, and because batteries will be batteries. Only measured 4 milli-amps. Basically nothing. Even when I re-connect my Orion 24V to 12V converter I only get 10 milliamps. The converter is only enabled with the run switch but a tiny amount of current is still used when off. The average car will use 5-10 times that much when off because current is required to operate the key and security systems, keep the radio presets enabled, and other necessary computer functions.

I wasn't expecting any draw since these things are so 'mechanical' but I am totally new and learn new stuff about them as I go along. Thank you!

 

[DEA AK]

Are you using the mulitmeter correctly? Drawing shows meter selected in the 10 amp range (ok), test leads not position in the 10 amp jack.

On the surface (picture) something not right in the procedure. (generally to measure current) If your are using your Camotek controller? off is OFF. NO leakage drain there.

That's my to cents worth or volts, CAMO

You're completely right, error on my part, I looked into it some more and after doing the meter test and following instructions to test the truck, the truck actually reads 0.00 with the kill switch on and off.

 

[DEA AK]

Someone deleted my other post... some people...

I have the same noise and was wondering what it is. I have bled the ps a few times, and I still have it.

Noise starts as he drives and as pretty evident at .40

 

[Milcommoguy]

Someone deleted my other post... some people...

I have the same noise and was wondering what it is. I have bled the ps a few times, and I still have it.

Noise starts as he drives and as pretty evident at .40

If it is the whine sound I think that is normal. IMO Listen to this>

If it is not whining and bumping... it is not a HumV, CAMO

 

[DEA AK]

If it is the whine sound I think that is normal. IMO Listen to this>

If it is not whining and barking... it is not a HumV, CAMO

that's exactly what mine sounds like, except for the bumping noise when you push people out of the way

Thanks Camo, you're the best!

 

[Mogman]

All the trucks with the remote PS reservoir have a gear type PS pump, gear pumps make noise, that is why they are not used on civy vehicles.

 

[DEA AK]

All the trucks with the remote PS reservoir have a gear type PS pump, gear pumps make noise, that is why they are not used on civy vehicles.

Thank you very much, I appreciate it.