To turbo or not to turbo 6.2 Diesel?

[RickTheEngineer]

On the banks kit, I took a hard look at the installation manual and it says nothing about the timing as was mentioned before. From what I understand, you will have to turn up the fuel delivery a little (1/4 turn) after the install and you should be golden. An EGT will be necessary to make sure you are within spec. Only thing I was worried about is how such a high compression engine will hold up due to the increased pressure. Considering that the piston rings would be pushed harder, I would not be looking forward to blow by and an engine rebuild any time soon. The truck was babied, really a true daily, just want to have a little more power when doing some hill climbs and whatnot. I am still considering putting the turbo however. "The FLU Farm" stated that Banks made a comment about how a 6.2 is good for about 200,000. That seems a little low to me, since I have seen them regularly surpass 200K if maintained well. Only thing is that none of them had a BANKS on it, so I cannot say how well they really will hold up (my biggest concern). For those of you that have one installed, has your engine been hurting in any way?

 

[glaser06]

Had my banks kit on for about 10k. Installed last year, other than a fuel delivery issue (I suspect a failing IP right now) I've had no problems and a big grin everytime I punch it up a hill.

I have seen civvy stuff for sale with the banks kit over 300k a few times and one over 500k.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[gimpyrobb]

Back when I had a banks kit, it came with the pyro, just fyi.

 

[The FLU farm]

Only thing is that none of them had a BANKS on it, so I cannot say how well they really will hold up (my biggest concern). For those of you that have one installed, has your engine been hurting in any way?

With maybe 40,000 miles on the Suburban (although I know it was doing well long after I sold it), and around 30,000 on the M1009, both were doing just fine.
More importantly, I would trust Gale's 3% longevity loss assessment as he knows what he's talking about. Apply that to 400,000 miles if you prefer, in which case you'd get 388,000 miles out of the engine.
I would imagine that how you treat the engine has more to do with its life expectancy than does the turbo.

 

[Drock]

M1028 Banks sidewinder turbo, Gear vendors O.D....(1) Banks still makes the kit, but it's only made to order. (2) If I remember correctly it took them 3 or more weeks to get the kit to my doorstep. (3) it was cheaper to order directly from them vs summit (or anyone else). (4) You DO NOT adjust the timing. (5) YOU DO turn up the fuel 1/4 turn. (6) I had 2 problems with the kit involving the exhaust. (1) they sent a kit for a 2wd, and (2) the head pipe had the wrong bend in it and laid against the frame rail. they sent new pipes and I was able to get it to work. The biggest installation problem I had was removing the oil plug from the drivers side of the block. It's really soft metal and easily strips out. I ended up welding a nut on it to get it out. I've got about 30,000 miles on it sense the install and the only problem I've had was the plug on the back of the plenum hat blew off going down the highway, so make sure to use thread lock on that. The turbo will double the performance of the truck (which isn't saying much) but did nothing for MPG's. However switching to a glasspack muffler gave me 1 MPG savings..

 

[llong66]

When I bought and rebuilt my 96 6.5l turbo, I went with a 0.10 thicker head gasket, just make sure its a good one (FelPro) if you go that route.

 

[glaser06]

Drock, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of the two head pipes would you? (Also called down pipe, maybe? ) I believe I might have the same issue.

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[Barrman]

I ordered a banks kit a few months ago. Each bag of parts has a sticker on it listing what the bag is with a build date. As mentioned above. All of my kit was put together in 2016. You can still get them.

Money invested wise if I were to do it again here is what I would do.

Factory a/c square body anything, Banks complete kit from intake to tail pipe. It fits, it was designed for these trucks and it works.

Non factory a/c truck like a CUCV is where it gets complicated. GM 6.5 set up with the exhaust running outside the frame rail and dumping in front of the rear tire. Modifications will have to be made. Most if not all of the exhaust system will be fabbed. The oil return GM used means an electric fuel pump has to be run. A Banks return plate could be used to keep the mechanical lift pump. The oil line will have to be made since GM used the front oil port the 6.2 engines don't have. EGT probe will have to be drilled into the manifold as well. Then a mechanical waste gate control will have to be made or bought.

It it really is the old time versus money debate. Money over time, skill and tools means Banks for sure. However, making the GM set up work intake filter to tail pipe at the rear of the vehicle with egt, psi gauges and all the little things to make it exactly right will probably end up costing real close to what Banks charges. It just won't leave your pocket in one lump sum.

Then there is the mixmatched Banks set ups. Take a 6.2 Banks kit and add a Ford 6.9/7.3 Banks turbo with its down pipe. Bigger turbo, waste gate and boost right off idle with more boost on the top end. New head gaskets are needed for sure if the engine is still 30 year old original, good idea to stud the heads and mains as well.

I jumped into the turbo 6.x world a year ago and can see how it can become a never ending quest real easy. Just another slippery slope to go down.

 

[86m1028]

WHY spend that kind of money (banks) on a 6.2 ???
A polished turd is still a turd
A turboed turd is still a TURD !!!

While your at it why not swap out the HD400 for a 700r4 ???
Then swap the 1 ton axles for 10 bolts for even better mileage.

The only real negative to these trucks is the 6.2
Replace the weak link & you've got a hd truck.

Or just go buy a prius.

 

[patracy]

I'd recommend the 6.5 turbo setup from the factory. It will work just fine on a 6.2. Just get a turbomiser setup to manually control the wastegate. Unless you absolutely feel compelled to line Gale Bank's pockets due to his marketing.

 

[Drock]

Drock, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of the two head pipes would you? (Also called down pipe, maybe? ) I believe I might have the same issue.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I don't have a picture at the moment. But they sent me a new pipe, which I never got around to installing. I just put the flat side of the u-bolt against the frame with a piece of one of the rubber hanger from the kit between the frame and the u-bolt. Theoretically you and I could cut a slice in the pipe and re-weld it so it routes away from the frame rail. And /or use a band clamp for some extra clearance.

 

[reloader64]

I ordered a banks kit a few months ago. Each bag of parts has a sticker on it listing what the bag is with a build date. As mentioned above. All of my kit was put together in 2016. You can still get them.

Money invested wise if I were to do it again here is what I would do.

Factory a/c square body anything, Banks complete kit from intake to tail pipe. It fits, it was designed for these trucks and it works.

Non factory a/c truck like a CUCV is where it gets complicated. GM 6.5 set up with the exhaust running outside the frame rail and dumping in front of the rear tire. Modifications will have to be made. Most if not all of the exhaust system will be fabbed. The oil return GM used means an electric fuel pump has to be run. A Banks return plate could be used to keep the mechanical lift pump. The oil line will have to be made since GM used the front oil port the 6.2 engines don't have. EGT probe will have to be drilled into the manifold as well. Then a mechanical waste gate control will have to be made or bought.

It it really is the old time versus money debate. Money over time, skill and tools means Banks for sure. However, making the GM set up work intake filter to tail pipe at the rear of the vehicle with egt, psi gauges and all the little things to make it exactly right will probably end up costing real close to what Banks charges. It just won't leave your pocket in one lump sum.

Then there is the mixmatched Banks set ups. Take a 6.2 Banks kit and add a Ford 6.9/7.3 Banks turbo with its down pipe. Bigger turbo, waste gate and boost right off idle with more boost on the top end. New head gaskets are needed for sure if the engine is still 30 year old original, good idea to stud the heads and mains as well.

I jumped into the turbo 6.x world a year ago and can see how it can become a never ending quest real easy. Just another slippery slope to go down.

Tim,
If you don't mind me asking, how much did the Banks kit cost? I put a factory 6.5 turbo in my civilian Chevy. I had to custom-fab the exhaust, and modify the A/C housing to make it all fit. I'm wondering if it would have been a lot easier, and maybe not much more expensive, to go the Banks route.

Scott

 

[ken]

I have a 82 GMC K2500 with a 6.2 SM465 and 3.42 gears. I installed a banks kit on it in 1999. I have replaced the engine. Not from the banks but because I over sped the engine. This truck isn't a daily driver anymore but I do use it to tow my tractor. I have towed a 7000 pound RV with dirt bikes and gear over soldier pass in Utah going to visit my sister in Provo. I could hold 55 mph with my foot on the floor. It never overheated. But The civi engine did come with a 7 blade fan and a 180 deg thermostat. Along with a much thicker radiator. I have replaced IP on this engine a few times and have had better power results advancing the timing slightly. But I think I must have some timing chain stretch. If your needing more power you might think about a 6.5 4911 Injection pump and the bigger lines with some marine injectors. Before I get flamed, yes I know it will never be a Duramax. But it can get the job done with a little patience.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Don't waste your time with marine injectors, standard injectors flow more than the IPs do anyway.