Tons of AWESOME info but . . . why "bob"

[Recovry4x4]

Guess it's mostly a matter of preference. Ask yourself the same question about many topics. Why smoke? Why race? Why swim? I just don't understand some of these.

Zombies? Simple, its an MV site. I doubt you see many folks on the sci fi sites wondering about posting about MVs. The site owner would rather concentrate on stuff related to the site topic instead of sci-fi.

 

[auron]

In downtown San Antonio a cop tried to get me for improper storage of commercial equipment when I parked my dually infront of that historic hotel by the mall and the river walk. luckly I cought him and when i asked what it ment he assumed I was a contractor taking tourist parking.( what clause this is under idk or if it even is ) I explained that I'm in the military and that this was my d/d he was more then happy to fix this mistaken identity. big trucks get a bad rep for no reason but I will continue to drive on and drive happy

 

[DUG]

I don't own a bobbed deuce, but I know many who do.

Losing an axle ensures you won't need a CDL. In CA it's that pesky third axle that gets you.
A bobber has a much better turning radius. When BarneysZoo and I did a long dez trip with our trucks he could easily turn around when we needed to get out of a canyon. I had to do the usual 61 point turn.
Bobbers get better fuel mileage usually. BarneysZoo with 395s used 33% less fuel than my stock deuce with 9.00 x 20s over the course of two days and 500 miles.

I'm not interested in a bobbed deuce for myself, but I can see why some folks like them.

 

[Mongo]

Bobbing a Deuce is personal preference for the most part. The advantages of a Bobbed Deuce:

Losing an axle gets you COMPLETELY out of the CDL territory. Technically, anything with a third axle is a commercial vehicle REGARDLESS of what it is used for. Most cops may not be aware of that and those that do generally won't enforce it but in addition to the CDL you would need to keep a log book of fuel used, miles driven, and taxes paid.

A Bobbed Deuce is a little lighter. This makes it a bit quicker, and easier to turn.

A Bobbed Deuce might fit in your garage. This can be handy if you live "in town" and certainly makes them easier and cheaper to insure.

Tire mods are easier and cheaper on a vehicle with only four wheels. Tire diameter can really help your highway speeds.

I have heard they are more stable on the highway but I don't see how that is possible with the shorter wheel base. You don't get that "fulcrum" action when you hit large bumps from the back anymore. They ride better if done properly.

There are pros and cons each way....

 

[3dAngus]

You need to know how you're going to use it to know why a person bobs a deuce. If you don't know, then bobbing is not for you.

Personally, I would rather take a lighter 4 wheel drive through town or a Georgia/Florida swamp then a big ole 6 wheel drive and heavier deuce. Probably better to own both for different reasons and useages, provided, you might need a bobber at all.

I need a bobbed deuce with winch. Pretty much so worthless to me without one for my application. It's another consideration, but again, you need to know what you want to use it for, unless you are strickly into it for preservation/historical sake.

I would recommend you just buy a M35A2, learn all the ins and outs of it, enjoy it, and decide the final outcome later.

 

[Valence]

Any other important questions I should ask before going to look at these deuces?
...
Anyone bought from Boyce Equipment out of Ogden Utah before?
It looks like they have a Ron of them.
Also possibly interested in a 5 ton as well for the extra power and power steering. I guessnill see what these guys tell me.

Hello Austin! Welcome aboard, and I'm glad to see another relatively close Military Vehicle enthusiast!

Let me share with you a few things that I've learned with owning a deuce in Utah.

Please note, the follow are my opinions and experiences and may still contain inaccuracies, please call the appropriate agencies or visit their websites to verify for yourself.

• Don't forget insurance
  • I've found that many companies will not insure my Deuce and a Half (Geiko, American Family Insurance, Travelers, Farmers, to name a few) Allstate said they could, but it would be through a "sister company". I wasn't comfortable with that arrangement so I went with a local State Farm office (I wanted something available locally anyway).
  • Because of the weight, State Farm would only insure it under a Commercial policy, which is about double rates, however, they let me suspend my insurance for up to 6 months. I do so during the winter months so the wonderful salty-brine UDoT puts on our roads, for the drivers who can't say 'No' to the gas peddle or will not leave earlier, won't rust my awesome truck further.
    • VERY IMPORTANT: Please be aware that if you suspend the insurance on a currently registered vehicle longer than (I believe) 90 days, you will be sent a letter from Insure-Rite (Insure-Rite Home), stating that the records show that you have a registered vehicle WITHOUT insurance. I'm not sure how it works, how how they can legally do it with no proof of wrong doing, but your registration may be REVOKED or you may be FINED $100. You just need to call the number in the letter and let them know the vehicle is SEASONAL use only.
  • I recommend the higher 100/300 liability insurance because, well, regardless at who is at fault, in an accident (unless you flip on your roof), you probably won't be the biggest loser...
• Registration
  • I had absolutely no problems registering my 1972 M35A2, using the serial number found on the top of the driver's side frame rail, above the front axle - this is the one you should use because sometimes it doesn't match the data plate in the cab. Bonus if they do match! This was necessary for me because I had to get a title since this was the first time my truck was registered. If it already has a title, well, you probably don't need to worry about that... or maybe you do. I'd still check to see which number the truck has been titled with, who knows if that'll cause problems?
  • I opted to register my truck for about 18,000 lb gross, because I do not expect to haul more weight than that (that's about 4,000 to 4,500 additional pounds), but I wanted the option to legally do so. This weight costs about $150 (total registration fee).
  • This year I looked into registering my truck as an "Antique". I was told that it only need to be at least 30 years old, however there are ambiguous restrictions that apply (such as "Only used for occasional transportation, is primarily a collector's item and used for Events, Parades, Shows, and Public Display"). I wasn't comfortable with "fuzzy" laws, however, I do agree with many on Steel Soldiers that state "Whenever I drive my deuce, it's on public display!" - this is because so many people (even police officers) will go out of their way to talk to you and ask you "Why?" or "What do you do with it?" questions.
• Utah Safety Inspection
  • This one has been the hardest for me, not because the truck has trouble passing our many, many laws, but because many shops will try to get extra money out of you, or require modifications that by law, you do not need to do.
  • You will need a licensed "Heavy" inspector since the braking system is Air Assisted, and they'll probably place a 2"x3" sticker in the corner of your Driver's windshield or side window.
    • My first experience with this problem was King's First Stop Auto in Layton, UT (besides the fact that the fellow told me I didn't have front brakes !?!) he told me that he'd need to take off the tires from a rear axle to check the brakes, which, I believe (I may be wrong?) would break the hub seal and then a new gasket would be needed and I would incur at least $160 in shop labor and parts. And I would need to do that every year for a $17.00 safety inspection? NO THANK YOU.
    • I then had Boyce Equipment in Ogden (I see that you know about them) do my safety for the last two years, but I will not go back there again. A very long story short, their inspector staunchly insisted that my M35A2 required additional running lights on the front fenders and rear of the bed, clearance lights on top of the hard top cab, and a light bar on the back center of the bed. He absolutely, 100% positively, refused to listen to reason or call the Utah Department of Public Safety Admin (801-965-4461). I cannot stress to you more that those modifications are not required for a personally owned truck not used for commercial purposes (it may be if you plan to use the truck commercially, you'll have to check). Both the Department of Public Safety Admin and an in-person visit by a county Trooper confirmed this for me.
    • I recommend finding a diesel repair shop that works on fleet trucks, such as Transtech Diesel in Clearfield, UT (sadly, probably too far for you...). The owner there informed me that you can check the rear brakes from looking behind and under the truck and you do not need to pull off any tires (FYI: To inspect the front brakes, there is an inspection port held on with a single nut that is accessible from the exterior of the front wheels).
  • Depending on the shop you go to, you may need to install a license plate light. I bought this 24v one: Licence Plate Light, 1-60151
    • My brother fabricated me a plate which I've mounted the license plate and light to. I then mounted the plate on the 2 bolts that hold the Driver's side tail light, and I piggy backed off the wiring there so that the license plate light is powered when I have my headlights on. Ask if you would like some pictures.
• Weigh Stations?
  • I'm no professional driver, and was a bit concerned and confused that the sign for weigh stations would say "All Vehicles 10,000 lb+ gross exit". I have personally called the weigh stations in Southern and Northern Utah, and a weigh station in each of our neighboring states that I would likely drive past some day: Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico. Each weigh station told me the same thing, that only commercial vehicles need to worry about exiting.
• Need a CDL or a different class to drive a Deuce and a Half?
  • In Utah you do not. Your regular Class D driver's license is sufficient. My deuce specifies it has a Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of about 23,500 lbs, I only pay the registration fees up to about 18,000 lbs. A CDL (or Class C) is for commercial vehicles and vehicles above 26,000 GVW.
  • Cool chart: Utah Department of Public Safety
  • You also do not need to worry about keeping some sort of log book or fuel tags/stickers.
• Local restrictions?
  • I strongly suggest calling your City office or local police station and asking if there are any vehicle restrictions. Things that may be restricted (ideas to ask about) are: Weight, height, width, length, noise, and even the number of axles. It all depends on how the law/ordinance is written, such as, there may be no restrictions on length or weight of the vehicle, but if you ask about the number of axles the person may say "Oh, yeah, no more than two axles..."
  • Talk to you neighbors, or be on good grounds with them. If you're not on favorable terms, buck up, approach them and see if the disagreement can be settled. If you're already having problems with them you wouldn't want to add more salt to the wound or give them "undo noise!!" or "unsightly blemish!" to complain about to your local law enforcement. Tell them of your interest in these cool, and historic, service vehicles. Tell them how you do not wish to cause them inconvenience or irritation and apologize if you need to leave early in the morning. I installed a small Dynomax muffler (see my profile album pictures) that takes the "bite" out of the Deuce exhaust noise.

You may feel differently about Deuce ownership than I do, but I had to go through all that legal research first, as I didn't want to get in over my head or be surprised later by some major requirement or stopping block that would impede or greatly diminish my enjoyment of owning such a cool, fun, and historic truck!

Oh, you were asking about mechanical things to look for?? Well, barking up the wrong tree here... I can only mention the basics that you'll probably, already know to look for. The truck may drive and run, but here's a few other things that may cause you heartache later:

(note, these are for a deuce and a half, locations may be different on a 5 ton, I do not know)

• Check the color of the fluids
  • Black oil? or when was the last time it was changed?
  • Brown Anti-freeze? or when was the last time it was changed?
  • Check the batteries. Typically these trucks do a lot of sitting, so check for corrosion on the battery terminals and the fluid level in 'wet' batteries. Bring a multi-meter to to check their at rest voltage level.
  • Open up the fuel tank cap and take a flash light to it, do you see floaters? Is there excessive leaking around the lifter on the tank?
  • In the lower passenger front, there's the primary fuel filter that has a little drain valve on the bottom. Can you open it and drain a bit of fuel? Do you see water/grime?
  • Behind the driver's side of the cab, inside the frame rail are the air tank reservoirs. Try to open both of them (may need to do this after running the truck) and see what comes out. Oily air? May have a valve going bad in the air pump or something wrong with the brakes. Some Water? Normal. Excessive water? Not normal, and may indicate that the tanks haven't been properly drained much.. Rusty water? Maybe water sat in the air tanks for a long period of time, and this could compromise them one day during operation. Remember, air is need to properly stop the truck!
  • Does the hand/park brake work? Will it hold the truck on an incline?
  • How well does it shift? How much free travel is there in the clutch? I believe the "Multi-fuel Operator" manual states that there should be 1.5" - 2", to be adjusted correctly.
  • The truck may or may not have a cab heater installed, if it does (you'll see it below the dash, and next to wheel well on the driver's side under the hood (near the oil filters)), does it work? (it's normal for the ducts to be old and a bit brittle - depending on the age or who formerly owned the truck)
  • Likely the truck will have air-operated wind shield wipers. They can be operated manually or via air. Depending on your safety inspection shop, they may need to function independently via air to pass safety.

Finally, I would like to tell you that if you're interested, we can arrange it and I would be more than happy to show you around my truck, poke prod, and we can take her for a spin (I'm about 15 miles south of Boyce Equipment).

You also may be interested in the Utah Military Vehicle Club:
Utah Military Vehicles Club
I'm not currently a member, but I know about them.

You read this far? I'm impressed, I only sound like I know what I'm talking about....

 

[Mongo]

I would recommend you just buy a M35A2, learn all the ins and outs of it, enjoy it, and decide the final outcome later.

That is the best advice you will ever see concerning whether or not to Bob a Deuce...

 

[Bcurtman]

I bought my deuce with bobbing it in mind from day 1. It did drive well before, was very fun to drive-the whole point of owning one-and as usual, it was slow and lacked power. Now that I am almost complete with the bobbing process, I should end up with a truck that drives better, is fun to drive, is not quite as slow, has a little more perceived power, PLUS it will basically be a big ole pickup that I can paint up and use on the farm as well as daily driving, cruise ins, etc, and will not run into another one like it. See "Getting closer to Bob" for what I've done so far. There are some way cool ones out there, and it is DEFINITELY a matter of personal choice.

 

[thefirm13]

Welcome to SS . Have you downloaded and read these ; TM9-2320-209-10-1.pdf
GTA-9-1-1851-8.pdf

I would recommend you study both of these before looking at a truck , so you know how to properly operate it and what to inspect .

Thank you! I had read and looked over the diagrams and service checklist but I havent read the full manual. 550 pages ouch. I did however read the how to destroy vehicle so it's unusable by the enemy part though.

 

[thefirm13]

Hello Austin! Welcome aboard, and I'm glad to see another relatively close Military Vehicle enthusiast!

Let me share with you a few things that I've learned with owning a deuce in Utah.

Please note, the follow are my opinions and experiences and may still contain inaccuracies, please call the appropriate agencies or visit their websites to verify for yourself.

• Don't forget insurance
  • I've found that many companies will not insure my Deuce and a Half (Geiko, American Family Insurance, Travelers, Farmers, to name a few) Allstate said they could, but it would be through a "sister company". I wasn't comfortable with that arrangement so I went with a local State Farm office (I wanted something available locally anyway).
  • Because of the weight, State Farm would only insure it under a Commercial policy, which is about double rates, however, they let me suspend my insurance for up to 6 months. I do so during the winter months so the wonderful salty-brine UDoT puts on our roads, for the drivers who can't say 'No' to leaving earlier or the gas peddle, won't rust my awesome truck further.
    • VERY IMPORTANT: Please be aware that if you suspend the insurance on a currently registered vehicle longer than (I believe) 90 days, you will be sent a letter from Insure-Rite (Insure-Rite Home), stating that the records show that you have a registered vehicle WITHOUT insurance. I'm not sure how it works, how how they can legally do it with no proof of wrong doing, but your registration may be REVOKED or you may be FINED $100. You just need to call the number in the letter and let them know the vehicle is SEASONAL use only.
  • I recommend the higher 100/300 liability insurance because, well, regardless at who is at fault, in an accident (unless you flip on your roof), you probably won't be the bigest loser...
• Registration
  • I had absolutely no problems registering my 1972 M35A2, using the serial number found on the top of the driver's side frame rail, above the front axle - this is the one you should use because sometimes it doesn't match the data plate in the cab. Bonus if they do match!
  • I opted to register my truck for about 18,000 lb gross, because I do not expect to haul more weight than that (that's about 4,000 to 4,500 additional pounds), but I wanted the option to legally do so. This weight costs about $150 (total registration fee).
  • This year I looked into registering my truck as an "Antique". I was told that it only need to be at least 30 years old, however there are ambiguous restrictions that apply (such as "Only used for occasional transportation, is primarily a collector's item and used for Events, Parades, Shows, and Public Display"). I wasn't comfortable with "fuzzy" laws, however, I do agree with many on Steel Soldiers that state "Whenever I drive my deuce, it's on public display!" - this is because so many people (even police officers) will go out of their way to talk to you and ask you "Why?" or "What do you do with it?" questions.
• Utah Safety Inspection
  • This one has been the hardest for me, not because the truck has trouble passing our many, many laws, but because many shops will try to get extra money out of you, or require modifications that by law, you do not need to do.
  • You will need a licensed "Heavy" inspector since the braking system is Air Assisted, and they'll probably place a 2"x3" sticker in the corner of your Driver's windshield or side window.
    • My first experience with this problem was King's First Stop Auto in Layton, UT (besides the fact that the fellow told me I didn't have front brakes !?!) he told me that he'd need to take off the tires from a rear axle to check the brakes, which, I believe (I may be wrong?) would break the hub seal and then a new gasket would be needed and I would incur at least $160 in shop labor and parts. And I would need to do that every year for a $17.00 safety inspection? NO THANK YOU.
    • I then had Boyce Equipment in Ogden (I see that you know about them) do my safety for the last two years, but I will not go back there again. A very long story short, their inspector staunchly insisted that my M35A2 required additional running lights on the front fenders and rear of the bed, clearance lights on top of the hard top cab, and a light bar on the back center of the bed. He absolutely, 100% positively, refused to listen to reason or call the Utah Department of Public Safety Admin (801-965-4461). I cannot stress to you more that those modifications are not required for a personally owned truck not used for commercial purposes (it may be if you plan to use the truck commercially, you'll have to check). Both the Department of Public Safety Admin and an in-person visit by a county Trooper confirmed this for me.
    • I recommend finding a diesel repair shop that works on fleet trucks, such as Transtech Diesel in Clearfield, UT (sadly, probably too far for you...). The owner there informed me that you can check the rear brakes from looking behind and under the truck and you do not need to pull off any tires (FYI: There is an inspection port held on with a single bolt accessible from the exterior of the front wheels that you can open to inspect the front brakes).
  • Depending on the shop you go to, you may need to install a license plate light. I bought this 24v one: Licence Plate Light, 1-60151
    • My brother fabricated me a plate which I've mounted the license plate and light to. I then mounted the plate on the 2 bolts that hold the Driver's side tail light, and I piggy backed off the wiring there so that the license plate light is powered when I have my headlights on. Ask if you would like some pictures.
• Weigh Stations?
  • I'm no professional driver, and was a bit concerned and confused that the sign for weigh stations would say "All Vehicles 10,000 lb+ gross exit". I have personally called the weigh stations in Southern and Northern Utah, and a weigh station in each of our neighboring states that I would likely drive passed some day: Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico. Each weigh station told me the same thing, that only commercial vehicles need to worry about exiting.
• Need a CDL or a different class to drive a Deuce and a Half?
  • In Utah you do not. Your regular Class D driver's license is sufficient. My deuce specifies it has a Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of about 23,500 lbs, I only pay the registration fees up to about 18,000 lbs. A CDL (or Class C) is for commercial vehicles and vehicles above 26,000 GVW.
  • Cool chart: Utah Department of Public Safety
  • You also do not need to worry about keeping some sort of log book or fuel tags/stickers.
• Local restrictions?
  • I strongly suggest calling your City office or local police station and asking if there are any vehicle restrictions. Things that may be restricted (ideas to ask about) are: Weight, height, width, length, noise, and even the number of axles. It all depends on how the law/ordinance is written, such as, there may be no restrictions on length or weight of the vehicle, but if you ask about the number of axles the person may say "Oh, yeah, no more than two axles..."
  • Talk to you neighbors, or be on good grounds with them. If you're not on favorable terms, buck up, approach them and see if the disagreement can be settled. If you're already having problems with them you wouldn't want to add more salt to the wound or give them "undo noise!!" or "unsightly blemish!" to complain about to your local law enforcement. Tell them of your interested in these cool, and historic, service vehicles. Tell them how you do not wish to cause them inconvenience or irritation and apologize if you need to leave early in the morning. I installed a small Dynomax muffler (see my profile album pictures) that takes the "bite" out of the Deuce exhaust noise.

You may feel differently about Deuce ownership than I do, but I had to go through all that legal research first, as I didn't want to get in over my head or be surprised later by some major requirement or stopping block that would impede or greatly diminish my enjoyment of owning such a cool, fun, and historic truck!

Oh, you were asking about mechanical things to look for?? Well, barking up the wrong tree here... I can only mention the basics that you'll probably, already know to look for. The truck may drive and run, but here's a few other things that may cause you heartache later:

Thank you this was EXTREMELY helpful. I'm actually going to be headed to Boyce tomorrow instead of today I have a buddy also interested that wants to come with.
I'll drop you a PM and if at all possible to link up on our trip north that'd be awesome.

Cheers

 

[Awesome Possum]

My first post. Hope to get to know you guys better.
So I've done a lot of lurking and now that I'm getting serious about owning an M35 I figured I'd better join up.

With all my searching I HAVE found a lot of great info on how to "bob" a deuce and a half but I haven't read anything definitive on WHY.

My assumption was to make it more flexible/usable on uneven terrain and possibly to fit bigger tires on but aside from that I'm at a loss.

Thanks for your help and One more question: I noticed in the newbie forum rules that one of the rules said "No zombie posts". Can someone explain this to me? Personally I think zombie stuff is downright awesome but hey that's just me.

Thanks!

Austin

If you have to ask, then a Bob is probably not for you. You'll know if and when it's time to bob when the truck (figuratively speaking) grabs you by the collar and yells "BOB ME!" All other reasons for bobbing are just used to justify the uncontrollable urge to turn your stock deuce into something else that's totally awesome!

 

[wreckerman893]

I had one of my deuces bobbed and loved it.......it is now owned by a fellow member who gives it a lot of love.

I also have an M35 and an M275 Deuce Tractor (somewhat rare).

The present duece is a work truck and I use it like a rented mule.

I'm gunning for a 5 ton cargo truck and if I get it I may bob the work deuce.

Here is a pic of my old bobber with the custom exhaust I made for it out of HUMVEE fording pipes.

 

[wreckerman893]

I had one of my deuces bobbed and loved it.......it is now owned by a fellow member who gives it a lot of love.

I also have an M35 and an M275 Deuce Tractor (somewhat rare).

The present duece is a work truck and I use it like a rented mule.

I'm gunning for a 5 ton cargo truck and if I get it I may bob the work deuce.

Here is a pic of my old bobber with the custom exhaust I made for it out of HUMVEE fording pipes.

 

[Bighurt]

I didn't read all 4 pages and apologize if this is repeated.

Having a third axle in some states changes registration and license requirements. It's a world of difference but for folks that don't need three axles, a bobed duece still looks the part.

Keep in mind the goverement bobbed one early on can't find a pic at the moment.

 

[thefirm13]

So I went to Boyces Equipment and talked to the sales guy. Definitely feeling close to picking something up. Leaning toward an M818 out of California. Has a shortened deuce bed on it but get the extra power if a 5 ton. What are your thoughts and is 100dollarman reputable? This is one if his trucks.

 

[Bighurt]

100dollarman is a good choice, Hundy is one of the Good Guys! I hope to buy from him at some point, shipping doesn't work that well for me.

 

[thefirm13]

100dollarman is a good choice, Hundy is one of the Good Guys! I hope to buy from him at some point, shipping doesn't work that well for me.

That's good to hear. I've been imptessed with him so far but I figured I'd ask here since, well, we all know how a lot of times people's reputation can proceed them.

If all goes well ill be a new MV owner this month!

 

[KsM715]

So I went to Boyces Equipment and talked to the sales guy. Definitely feeling close to picking something up. Leaning toward an M818 out of California. Has a shortened deuce bed on it but get the extra power if a 5 ton. What are your thoughts and is 100dollarman reputable? This is one if his trucks.

Thats exactly what Im working on right now. M818 with a shortened deuce bed.

Have heard lots of good things about 100dollarman and nothing bad about him so far.

 

[elfkin]

does anyone have a working link to a step by step bobbing a duec ? I have all the parts and the skills, but just concerned about messing it up.. would like a step 1,2,3..

 

[HanksDeuce]

does anyone have a working link to a step by step bobbing a duec ? I have all the parts and the skills, but just concerned about messing it up.. would like a step 1,2,3..

Here you go. He's even got it broken into steps. There are tons of different ways to do it, but it gives you the general idea.

http://xm381.com/xm381/How_To.html

If you are up for a challenge you could always check my build thread or website for ideas on my bobbed deuce project. See links below in my signature. Good luck!