torque on wheel nuts

[willy]

Hi does any one have the torque LBS for a M35A3 wheel nuts
I did not find in my manual
Willy

 

[rlwm211]

Hi;
Not to be a pain. You can find this type of information in the Technical Manuals which are available here in the resources section or on www.jatonkam35s.com in the Deuce TM section.

The manual you need to look in is:

TM 9-2320-209-10-4

on page 39.

The answer lies there.

 

[hndrsonj]

You'll find in the A3 manuals that if something isn't there, it often refers you back to the A2 manuals.

 

[rlwm211]

Gosh I am sorry. I missed the A3 designation.

I just looked for a torque spec in the A3 Manuals and could not find one. They do refer you to the A2 Manuals for certain procedures so I suspect since the lug nuts are the same as the A2 you can rely on the data I found in the manual mentioned.

 

[hndrsonj]

You were actually right 211; they use the A2 torque.

 

[sandcobra164]

Oh, so it's about #%& to #&% foot pounds then!!! You'll need a good extension on the torque wrench to get that much. So the Op does some searching, the symbols I used are at the top of the numbers on his keyboard in my post.

 

[59apache]

' 5 6 to ' 6 5 ??? are you shure?

please specify what the ' stands for....

different languages, different keyboards...

in clear words.....

325 to 350 pound-feet

 

[rosco]

If your putting them on by hand, with a cheeter pipe, tighten them till they POP. That was the industry standard, before air wrenches. You won't break them, and they won't come off! It takes a 5' cheeter pipe, 1" schedule 80, so you won't bend it! You might have to bounce on it, to get the job done.

 

[sandcobra164]

350 to 375 since German keyboards may not reflect correctly based on my last post. Kudo's to you for knowing a second language and thanks for not speaking German. Otherwise, I would have not been able to post much of anything of a response. Not out of being a pain in the tail, I just wouldn't have known what you were saying.

 

[Kaiserjeeps]

If your putting them on by hand, with a cheeter pipe, tighten them till they POP. That was the industry standard, before air wrenches. You won't break them, and they won't come off! It takes a 5' cheeter pipe, 1" schedule 80, so you won't bend it! You might have to bounce on it, to get the job done.

I beg to differ. I am not sure why my lug studs broke other than over tightening. I used a 5 foot bar and bounced several times till I heard the "crack" or pop on each one. Usually at least two pops. I weigh 180.

I have shortened my cheater bar to 3 foot and will stop at one good report (pop). Then check them every now and then.

This happened 2 days before a parade. I was really nervous having 15 older veterans in back and possibly loosing a wheel. You can see by the rust in part of the crack it was that way for a while.
A big thanks to the SS member who helped me get back on the road in time for the parade.

They can break.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Oh, so it's about #%& to #&% foot pounds then!!! You'll need a good extension on the torque wrench to get that much. So the Op does some searching, the symbols I used are at the top of the numbers on his keyboard in my post.

I've got a 600ftlb torque wrench, no extension needed. Plenty of leverage.

 

[Tow4]

I use a 3/4" impact wrench. No shortage of foot pounds in there.

 

[onegmjack]

I torque the front on mine at 350 ft lb.On the back inner I torque at 450 ft lb,the outer at 350 ft lb. I have not had any problems doing them this way.If this is wrong please let me know.Think I read this in the TM.

 

[rosco]

Kaiserjeep - you put them on till they POP, period. Long before air and torque wrenches were promenent, you torqued wheel nuts till they poped. The industry rolled on that axium! Fatigue and probably a prior air wrench was the cause of your troubles - stuff happens. You didn't want that studd on there anyway - good you found it! I'm old enough with several million miles of experience, to have grown up that way.

 

[Kaiserjeeps]

I used to bonce on the cheater bar a few times. Several pops later I figured it was tight. Well they were. I should correct my post. I use a 3 foot bar and go for the first pop and then give it one more for a second one. A lot les than I used to do. I just marked all my nuts with a sharpie. The ones on the truck.

 

[rlwm211]

I would think that using your arms and hands at specific length of mechanical advantage from your socket would be a more accurate method of tightening than using a pipe longer that it really needs to be.

I have a geared lug wrench and I tighten mine until I cannot turn the handle any more. That is with the original handle about 2 foot long at 4 to 1 reduction.

An overtightened lug nut or inner nut is as dangerous, perhaps more so, than an undertightened fastener. The difference being that a loose lug should give an indication of that fact before the wheel falls off. An overtighted lug may snap off and depending on what location on the truck this is, you could have very serious problems much faster than you can handle if you are going down the road at 50 MPH.

Just my two cents....

p.s. when I got my deuce I drove it for a couple of weeks to shake the bugs out and then went to check the brakes and such. The left front lug nuts were so tight I had to use a 5 foot pipe and I stood on the end to break them free.

The right fronts were finger tight or just a little bit beyond that, but had not loosened at all during the off road testing I did.

 

[rosco]

When I was a Kid, there was an old time mechanic, that I learned to respect, as he was very knowledgable. He said that torque wrenches were for amateaures!. I learned to respect that. Meaning that they are not "foolproof". Ie, depending on wether there are clean, new, dry threads, or wether they are rusty, dirty, warn, or oily, etc., you will get far different results, with a torque wrench. You still have to use some disgression, as to how you use them, to get reasonable, predictable results. The same goes for hand wreches, and especially when used with cheeter pipes.

On MV's, there are no telling about the horrendous conditions, that they have been subjected to. The TM's are not often followed, in the field!

When your a hundred miles from nowhere, with a flat steering tire, and can't break loose a couple of those nuts, one begins to dream about longer cheeter pipes. I'm glad to know that you can tell the difference in your nuts now!

 

[Rustygears]

I would think that using your arms and hands at specific length of mechanical advantage from your socket would be a more accurate method of tightening than using a pipe longer that it really needs to be.

I fully agree with this. It really isn't rocket science and torque wrenches can be very inaccurate based on how they are used and treated. As a kid, I was taught by the mechanics I worked for (for free no less) that on a standard 12" wrench, a 'grunt' was pretty consistently 80 ftlbs. I called BS and we actually put a bet on it and checked it with a torque wrench. They were right to within about 10% on multiple tries. They used to spec torque (except for heads) in 'grunts' - 1 grunt, half grunt, etc.

Similarly, I have a cheater pipe for my 3/4" breaker bar that makes the overall length 7' long. That is an important number. 7' at 50lbs is 350 ftlbs. I know how much effort I use to lift a 50 lb sack of fertilizer and can dial in that feel pretty reliably. I can accurately torque the A3 nuts to 350 and with a 7' bar and 225lbs of me, get all the rusted ones loose in short order by hopping on it.

 

[mudguppy]

i love how the shade-tree techniques and antiquated culture of scoffing at engineering design and specifications runs so rampant.

if "how we used to do it before new-fangled technology" was really the best method, then why would we ever come up with new ways...?

do some math.

 

[onegmjack]

If the wheel comes off and hurts or kills someone,I can know I did all I could do.