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Torque rod emergency repair

Csm Davis

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M923 popped a upper rod off the ball on intermediate axle end. Need to get it back on to drag it home. Front axle is frozen up so can't tow from the rear. Ideas on easiest way to get ball back in alignment and affix a plate to keep it there? Have wrecker and most tools, but pulled on it quite a bit today and it never got more than half the ball showing though the rod end.
 

Mullaney

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M923 popped a upper rod off the ball on intermediate axle end. Need to get it back on to drag it home. Front axle is frozen up so can't tow from the rear. Ideas on easiest way to get ball back in alignment and affix a plate to keep it there? Have wrecker and most tools, but pulled on it quite a bit today and it never got more than half the ball showing though the rod end.
.
A come-along is generally the way to get it into place.
That an a sledge hammer to tap it home...
 

Csm Davis

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What were you pulling on it with? Did you try a come-a-long? My dad always said “Don’t force it, get a bigger hammer”.
Tried pulling up and back at 45° with wrecker and chain wrapped around axle to twist it rearward and upward. Height worked but would not twist backwards it's off by about 3". Will try hooking front wrecker winch to to it from behind and around chunk to try to rotate it backwards next trip out to it. Think it fell off crossing ditch, it was being flat towed at the time.
 

Jbulach

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Try a chain and binder around the mount just below the separated end. You may need to jack up one side of the rear axle, then release the brakes in neutral to get any bind out of the drive train. It also may be possible to carefully torque the axle housing around with the brakes set using the engine if you have a helper.

Any chance this truck has lockers? Are you sure the slip joint in the driveshaft has not separated and binding holding the axle forward? Maybe worth dropping the front end of the driveshaft between the axles while you realign the rod end anyhow…
 

Csm Davis

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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Try a chain and binder around the mount just below the separated end. You may need to jack up one side of the rear axle, then release the brakes in neutral to get any bind out of the drive train. It also may be possible to carefully torque the axle housing around with the brakes set using the engine if you have a helper.

Any chance this truck has lockers? Are you sure the slip joint in the driveshaft has not separated and binding holding the axle forward? Maybe worth dropping the front end of the driveshaft between the axles while you realign the rod end anyhow…
Engine is dead, cab is falling off, transfer case is busted, probably has lockers. Driveshaft is fully collapsed most of truck is trashed from rust, dipped in the sea for years and not cleaned. Bed and lockers is why I bought truck, ISO BED M923A1 😮💨
 

Jbulach

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I’ve got a torque rod with good ends I’ll trade you for that “junk” truck!

If you can stabilize that axle with binders front and back, release the brakes somehow, and just pick the whole back of the truck up with the wrecker and see if the drivetrain unwinds.
 

Csm Davis

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Or have you considered just chaining that axle up if you’re just trying to tow it a short distance?
Probably what will happen if I can't get it repaired fairly quickly next trip. What would everyone suggest for keeping rod in place if I get it back on? Drill and tap or weld plate? 75 miles to home, lift tow behind wrecker.
 

msgjd

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What would everyone suggest for keeping rod in place if I get it back on? Drill and tap or weld plate? 75 miles to home, lift tow behind wrecker.
You can do either as long as your retainer is at least as strong as the force that caused it to pop off.. Seen some vintage commercial dogbones having a 3/8"x2" flatstock plate with two 3/8" (maybe 1/2") bolts holding it in place .. I have run an M51 for many years with dogbone retainer plates welded in place .. If you're gonna weld, do it in multiple stages and have plenty of coolant or an extinguisher handy to keep that bushing from being damaged and the metal at a reasonable temper
 
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Jbulach

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Hopefully you can get the rod back on and weld some junk across it to keep it on, so you don’t have to chain the axle up. Not sure what the frame of the ISO bed looks like or if you can even get chains around it to chain the axle up? But if it’s like the standard beds thin c-channel frame, make sure to take some 4x4 wood blocking and saw so you can block the inside of the channel to keep the chain from collapsing it from the weight of the truck and axle while chained up. Also I’d pull the driveshaft between the axles as well to keep the tires on the intermediate axle from spinning. Hate to see you tweak your cool “new” bed.
 

Csm Davis

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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Hopefully you can get the rod back on and weld some junk across it to keep it on, so you don’t have to chain the axle up. Not sure what the frame of the ISO bed looks like or if you can even get chains around it to chain the axle up? But if it’s like the standard beds thin c-channel frame, make sure to take some 4x4 wood blocking and saw so you can block the inside of the channel to keep the chain from collapsing it from the weight of the truck and axle while chained up. Also I’d pull the driveshaft between the axles as well to keep the tires on the intermediate axle from spinning. Hate to see you tweak your cool “new” bed.
Thanks for the cribbing the frame idea, didn't really think about that. Also definitely pulling driveshafts.
 
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