Torque Rod removal - remove the tires?

[therooster2001]

Starting a new thread as most of the old ones were the Deuce, and I don't want to confuse anyone. I have seen difference in the torques between the Deuce and the M939 (and even the wrecker gets something different). The TM ( TM 9-2320-272-23-3, WP 0544) states to start with the tires removed. I am only doing one bottom one (the one on the right side towards the front). I have removed tires before, but I was wondering what others might have encountered without removing the tires. Can this be done? Easily? Or am I just asking for a headache?

M925A2, with Goodyear Super Single AT-2A's.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its the same thing, deuce or 5ton. Loosen the nut, put some wood in there, then a splitting wedge, whack it with a BFH. It will pop right out.

 

[Scrounger]

I removed the top right torque rod, replaced the bushings and reinstalled the torque rod without removing the tires. I haven’t done a lower one yet, however I would think the lower ones are easier to remove since there isn’t a castle nut behind the spring pack.

 

[therooster2001]

Anyone know the right size wrench for that nut? I measure it as either a 2 1/4 or 2 5/16. So much paint, can't tell. The brackets look to be 1 3/8, right?

 

[juanprado]

Anyone know the right size wrench for that nut? I measure. It as either a 2 1/4 or 2 5/16. So much paint, can't tell. The brackets look to be 1 3/8, right?

2 1/4 on castle nut is correct.

 

[therooster2001]

Thanks, talk about real time! Home Depot just let me down however. Anyone have a good source for these monster wrenches?

 

[Scrounger]

I used a Snap On 2 ¼” wrench and have a 2 ¼” striking wrench from Proto. I bought them off that unnamed internet site some time ago. I just looked at the prices today and it took my breath away. Perhaps there is a heavy truck shop around that may allow you to loan from.

 

[therooster2001]

Between the bay and the other one, I bought two wrenches and 2 sockets. Figure I could use the sockets for 1/2 the job. I also plan on using my Robo Impact if need be. Love that thing. **** those Snap-on's are pricey. I got all 4 for the 1/3 of the price. And I await more shipping...

Not starting a snap-on religious debate here.

 

[juanprado]

2 1/4 is also the size for the pancake flange driveshaft nuts on the differentials in case you ever need to do pinion seals.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Not starting a snap-on religious debate here.

Quality is not cheap. There is really no debate to it!

 

[Swamp Donkey]

I did all four of my lowers without removing the tires. Just make sure your on flat ground. If the rears are at different levels when the new one is installed, the rubber will be constantly stressed when on flat ground. This comes into play more for the uppers if done by the TMs, but is still a point to be made.

I used a pry bar between the rod end and the lug. While prying, I whacked the side of the lug that holds the tapered shaft. A couple hits on each one and they were out. I also used a knock wrench for the nuts.

Ironically, the hardest part of the whole job was getting the cotter pins out.

 

[Scrounger]

The cotter pins were a pain when I did mine also. I used a radiator hose pick on one and just wrenched the other one off. With the size of the nut and wrench that little cotter didn’t have a chance.

 

[Tyl012]

For large wrenches, check into Sunex brand or for large sockets, Grey pneumatic. Good quality with a great price.

 

[Cape Coastie]

Just did the same rod saturday

Hey Rooster2001, I just did the same rod on my M923 on Saturday morning. First one I have ever done. Went pretty smoothly. Hardest part was the cotter pins as the other guys have said. I put the wood wedge on the forward end between the rod end, with nut on but loose, and the nut from the spring shackle and gave it several hits and she popped off. The aft end was much easier as the nut side can be easily be hit with the sledge hammer. Photos are old and new side by side and the end that didn't pop off! Guess it was about to fail too. Will be rebuilding the old one. Used stainless steel cotter pins this time

 

[droprat]

Buddy of mine and I did all 6 awhile back. Cotter pins are a pain. Did not remove any tires. Took us about 8 hours to R&R. I made a homemade picklefork and welded a chisel to a long piece of steel to remove upper castle nuts. NAPA has large castle nut socket for a large air impact. Fastenal has cotter pins. BFH is a must. And large straps are handy to move axles back into place when reinstalling dogbones.

 

[therooster2001]

Thanks guys. With the wrenches, sockets and a BFH, I will be good to go. I have a very level garage, so that shouldn't be an issue. I also saw Warthog's post about the ratchet straps, great idea. I have a couple of Sunex sockets, tried to find one, got a Stanley instead. Doesn't look like you guys did the bracket end undo, but just did the castle nuts, I want to do the same, although have the tools just in case. I have the dogbone hopefully on the line from another member. After I get the old one off, I plan to get some ends and press them in so I can get the next one ready. I also plan on getting a couple at BFR so I can have some backups. I love the TM that stated "get the mechanics tool bag, the wrench is in there", but had no sizes.

Couple more questions:

What size cotter pins should I get from Fastenal? (length, grade, diameter?) Is it a cross reference with the MIL-spec #? (EDIT) Fastenal does parts numbers from WP 827 Item 353. DONE!
Did anyone throw away the castle nut like the TM said?
Did anyone preload?

I re-read the torque rod cartoon thing that was posted. To check the others it says to wedge the crowbar in, then move the other end 4-6 inches (not the torque rod end, but the crowbar's end, that one threw me a bit), and if it springs back to starting position, it's ok. So on my one that the rubber let loose, it still does this (IMO), anyone have a trick, or am I doing this wrong?

Not to get all gushy, but I really appreciate everyone jumping in with the experiences on here, it's what makes this forum rock. THANK YOU!!! I will post the aftermath (with pics) on here to close the loop.

 

[therooster2001]

View attachment 568579

I will also remember to have beer, it seems to be missing in the TM instructions.

 

[droprat]

Believe we went with 3" cotter pins from Fastenal. Get u other specs F u need tomorrow.

 

[Scrounger]

The cotter pin type isn’t that critical. I just picked ones that fit out of an assortment box that I have on hand. For installation I chocked the front wheels, charged the air tanks and released the brakes to make it easier to move the rear axles. I ended up using a ratcheting chain binder and a short length of chain to move things around. I had the axles far enough apart to start the torque rod bushing in their respective holes. I connected one end of the chain binder to the top of the spring perch and the other end to the chain that was looped thru the lifting pin on the top of the spring stack. By tightening the binder it pulled everything in place and the tire rolled with the brakes off. It will take a little wiggling i.e. slide the bushings in, tighten binder to pull the axles closer, slide some etc.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Did anyone throw away the castle nut like the TM said?
Did anyone preload?

I personally always use a new Castle nut on anything. My torque rods came with the nuts and cotter pins so I used them but i would've gotten new ones if they hadn't. If you hit on the nut to release the end I'd definitely replace it. If you hit the lug with the tapered hole to release the end you wouldn't damage the nut and I think you'll find it will release a little easier.

The preload part is for when the axles must be articulated to gain access for removal and installation, like on the wreckers... and I think it only involves the upper rods. If the axles are articulated when the new rods are installed, the rubber will be under constant stress when on flat ground and can be overstressed when articulating the opposite direction. There was a thread on this that I can't find at the moment. It was an informative thread.

Basically, preload won't be necessary if your on flat ground and the axles don't have to be articulated one way or the other for removal or installation.