Torque rods kicking my butt

[gimpyrobb]

The rubber ends are mounted with a taper. I don't know that rotational force will help. Think about a drill press or a milling machine. They have collets and morse tapers to avoid spinning out of the bore.

If you can get some pressure on the threads and then jar it(from the other side) with a big hammer, I would think that would work best.

 

[rtadams89]

My thought was more that the impact vibration may break loose the corrosion holding them in

 

[rflegal]

I got them all with the 4-ton press unit...except the two upper on the driver's side, above the pivot. I have one of these.. I'm gonna try it this weekend.

 

[topo]

rflegal thank you for offering the use of your press that was money well spent . would like to see your truck some time .

 

[rtadams89]

I got them all with the 4-ton press unit

What did you brace the press against on the lower ends with the threaded ends pointing outwards? The wheel/tire?

...except the two upper on the driver's side, above the pivot. I have one of these.. I'm gonna try it this weekend.

View attachment 714285

What is that thing?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its an attachment for a pneumatic hammer gun.

 

[rflegal]

With the pancake press, I used a wood spacer between the wheel and stud, substituting the press for the wedge shown earlier in other photos. At the frame, the kit has a ram and extensions, so bridge and shim, stud-to-stud, side-to-side.
The tool is for the air impact hammer - it takes a socket and can be turned by the hex either way, when needed.
I'll snap some pics this weekend if I can.

 

[rflegal]

Anytime... mines a bit of a wreck right now, but its a "classic." Like the tag says - too many projects.

 

[rtadams89]

Well I got a friend to help and used a 10# hammer and a length of rebar, didn’t budge. Also tried my welded nut and impact wrench without luck. This weekend I’m going to attempt to weld on some chain to the inside of the bushin and use a load binder to tension it while also wailing on it. If that doesn’t work, I’m out of ideas. I can’t see how a bottle jack would fit in there.

 

[doghead]

Instead of hitting it directly, hit the area outside of the tapered hole.

With or without tension.

 

[rflegal]

Yep - rapping the mount 90 degrees to the axis of the stud, around the perimeter while maintaining consistent axial pressure, that's the secret. That's what the wedge or the press does. Mine popped with half a dozen hits from a 4#. And a lot of PB-Blaster in advance.

The top one on the driver's side are a tougher problem. I've got a few ideas. May have to use some heat on the mount. If I remember, you just have studs left. Heating that stud welding may expand it in the bore and seat it tighter. Heating the mount and cooling the stud increases the tolerances in the bore.

With the upper most ones at the pivot, access for me is the issue...I don't want to undo the spring pack.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If you pull the wheels off, then let one axle set on the ground while lifting the other up, you'll get access to it without taking the spring apart/off.

 

[74M35A2]

Hit the center with liquid nitrogen, and the outer with a torch. You can take an aerosol can of keyboard cleaning air, and turn it upside down. It will spray out liquid that will cause frostbite, so don't let it contact your skin. Have separating pressure on it while doing so, try to whack it simultaneously also.

 

[rflegal]

Thanks. Yep, have the wheels off, doin' that. Even turned a socket down to fit. It's tight for sure.

 

[rflegal]

OK - well now it's kicking my butt. I cannot get a clear shot at the driver's side upper frame studs. Tried heating with a torch, tried impact, even slipped the ram in between the stud and spring pack, all while wrapping the mount.
I read again with interest the post about torque setting and checked my original, paper TM. It had the high torque number. Maybe this is why they reduced it later?
It also occurred to me, how many leaves are in the standard deuce spring pack? Mine's an M36, which is the longer frame and bed (approx. 17' of frame behind the cab). Does it have extra spring leaves due to the length, because even when I rotate the rear set on the pivot like gimpyrob describes, I can't get a clear shot at those studs? Is there a difference; M35 vs M36?

 

[rflegal]

BTW - TM-8022, December 1954 - "350 - 400 ft-lbs." DANG!

 

[rflegal]

Interesting... all the pics I can find of the rear spring pack show 10 leaves. Mine has 12!

 

[rtadams89]

I drug a generator and DC stick welder out to the truck today and attempted to weld some chain onto the stuck upper bushing. I thought I got a good weld, but as soon as I started pulling on it with the load binder, the weld broke. At that point it was too dark to see to re-weld it, so I guess I'll have to try again later. What would be really handy would be some sort of "choker" device that I could just slip behind the bushing "head" and pull on.

 

[rtadams89]

What would be really handy would be some sort of "choker" device that I could just slip behind the bushing "head" and pull on.

I wonder if I could just make a loop of 3/16 cable and wrap that behind the bushing.

 

[simp5782]

Or drill it and tap it to a 1/2" bolt. And see if you can spin it in the hole.
But If you are having this much trouble you need a long steel spear and a nice sledgehammer and a torch to heat it up some.

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