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Trailer light plug options

Whitfield

Member
116
5
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Location
Richmond Virginia
Searching for trailer light / brake plug options. I hate to chop up my factory harness but I will solider and shrink if I must. Are there any good conversion harnesses to run a civilian 7 pin or any good military trailer pin out adapters.

I'm sure I'm not the only one but so far my search has turned up ZERO useable results.
 

Whitfield

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Location
Richmond Virginia

cpf240

Active member
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Which model CUCV do you have?

Any of them, other than the M1009, have the standard GM connector along the frame rail that you can tee into with a commercially available trailer wiring harness adapter. http://www.etrailer.com/t1-1984_Chevrolet_C/K+Series+Pickup.htm The M1009 does not have the single connector on the frame rail like the other CUCVs do.

You could use two of the above adapters and splice them together for use on the M1009. One adapter for each tail light plug, then splice into a single trailer plug.

There was a thread here showing how to make an adapter that tee'd into the weather pack connectors on the back of the military trailer socket on the truck. I did this halfway on mine, disconnecting the military socket and just plugging in a flat-4 trailer plug. I do intend to finish the job one of these days, and thus be able to use both the civi plug and the military socket.

This post is the one I used for mine ( #20 ): http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...apter-for-CUCV&p=932493&viewfull=1#post932493

There are also lots of threads with the pin-outs of the military socket you could use to make your own. Assuming you can find a military plug to fit the socket for a reasonable price.
 
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Derrickl112

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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This came up in my search earlier and as far as I know CUCV only runs 12v lights. Thus no need for this 24v converter.

I could run a standard Chevy harness plug (Rare to find one on the shelf now that these trucks are getting scarce)
I wold prefer to use the mil plug and make a conversion harness plug if I can.
i did not see that this was in the cucv section...
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
I ran into this same issue. I was hoping to slip a new style receptacle into the existing bumper hole and paint it army green. The receptacles are too deep where they interfere with the bumper support. I am either going to mount it to a bracket under the bumper or use a hole saw and mount it somewhere else on the bumper.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Seems like someone would be producing a simple and economical 12 pin to 7 blade plug in adapter. The only one I found was $159 and would not operate trailer brakes.
 

Screamin' Metal

New member
104
2
0
Location
SW Oklahoma
Get your Nato Plug and wire it up. OR, what I did, I spliced into the main harness under the truck, on the bulkhead there by the rear bumper, I mounted a clear box with strip (Rig Connection Box), tied everything into there, and mounted a civi plug right beside the Nato plug.
(Fastenal carrys those boxes, Look under automotive fleet electrical, that way, everything is protected from water/dirt/mud and treelimbs.)
That way you can use both, and not wear or mess up any 1 plug.
I have used a adapted pigtail before, that will work also.
 
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481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
I really think I am just going to mount a civi plug in another hole where I'm sure there's clearance in the back. That way I know everything is up to date with my trailers and I won't have to mess with adapters. Not like my truck is correctly bone stock anyway.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
The civilian 7 blade plug shell can be cut down so it is not that deep
Couldn't cut it down enough to work in the original spot. Got tired of messing around trying to rig something up as far as adapters go and couldn't find what I needed online so I just went out and got it over with. Now I know I have something that works right, fits tight and will work my trailer brakes without messing with adapters. Done.
 

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Whitfield

Member
116
5
18
Location
Richmond Virginia
How do you like the bolt on hitch? I bough the same one. Hoping to catch the two bottom pintel bolts and come out enough with the bottom plate to weld a thick bead hitch plate to bumper plate. Still undecided about how to handle the two bolts visible in your photo.

**** Found two military off road only trailers yesterday at a friends saw mill. He said I could have the plug. GOtta go back and check it out.
 

Tlauden

Member
840
3
18
Location
Halifax Pennsylvania
As far as mounting a hitch, could you not just measure the frame centers and go looking for a hitch to do a direct frame mount. That would take care of no bolts thru the bumper
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
How do you like the bolt on hitch? I bough the same one. Hoping to catch the two bottom pintel bolts and come out enough with the bottom plate to weld a thick bead hitch plate to bumper plate. Still undecided about how to handle the two bolts visible in your photo.

**** Found two military off road only trailers yesterday at a friends saw mill. He said I could have the plug. GOtta go back and check it out.
Hitch works fine. I used the 2 pintel hitch bolts as well. Had to re-drill though. Cheap and easy. I figure if I tow something heavy enough to pull that heavy duty bumper loose, I'm already in trouble. Works fine with my boat and 23' snowmobile trailer. The extra braces get in the way of mounting a standard receiver hitch without a bunch of modifications.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
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I did a similar add on. I could not even put my trailer's empty weight on the ball with out the bumper bending . My trailer weighs 2800 empty. Its a dual axle, 18' trailer.

I only use it for my little boat trailer now.
 
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