Transfer Case problem

[HDN]

Here are the troubleshooting steps in PDF format. Unfortunately the text can't easily be copied and pasted into a translator, so I hope you're able to manually type the text into one or know enough English (or have a friend that does) to get through them!

 

[General Kaiser]

Here are the troubleshooting steps in PDF format. Unfortunately the text can't easily be copied and pasted into a translator, so I hope you're able to manually type the text into one or know enough English (or have a friend that does) to get through them!

Thanks a lot !! I know English enough to understand technical text

 

[General Kaiser]

Hello everyone

Can I just take out front compounents of transfer case (like drive shafts and etc) and open front door for repair ?

Thanks

 

[gringeltaube]

You may be able to remove the lid alone. But then, getting all shafts back in place at once will be challenging, at least.

Have you found already what causes the synchro to not fully engage?

 

[General Kaiser]

You may be able to remove the lid alone. But then, getting all shafts back in place at once will be challenging, at least.

Have you found already what causes the synchro to not fully engage?

I'm still searching . But I think the fork is out of its place.

Taking the hole unit out is challenging too!!

 

[gringeltaube]

...... But I think the fork is out of its place.

.... or the whole input shaft has somehow moved backwards a couple mm??

Before you pull apart the whole TC, here are a few dimensions you can check and compare with yours, after removing that top 4-bolt cover (plus the poppet ball, stem & spring) ....

1. For fairly new parts, the synchro collar is 17.5mm thick and the groove in the fork is 18.3-18.4mm wide. So there you have a total play of 0.8-0.9mm. It can be felt by moving the shift shaft in-out. (it appears to be more than that, in this pic, but it really is less than 1mm)

2. Free (back-forth) movement of the whole synchro unit is little over 2mm, between both gears. Past that, you start compressing the spring-loaded clutch collar of the synchronizer.​

3. Total travel of the collar - out of neutral, and up to complete engagement, after stopping against the gear's face - is about 14mm. The synchro itself allows for 15mm travel of the collar, each way. Synchro- and gear dogs start making contact after the first 5mm of travel.​

4. With the fork perfectly centered in Neutral, the distance measured from the backside of the fork to where it would contact the housing is ~20mm. So, if all was normal, there is plenty of room left for a full engagement, without the fork touching the case.​

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5. With the set screw tightened in place, the distance between backside of fork and first groove of shift shaft is ~19mm. (below pic) That means that when the shaft/fork assembly is in Neutral, that first groove should just appear visible, out of the bore in the housing.​

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I would also unscrew the set screw and check that it is in good shape. Compare with pictures below.....​

​

 

[General Kaiser]

Hi
Thanks a lot gringeltaube
I will check it in next week. I'm far from truck for days.

 

[Mick's Deuce]

Hello all, I have been reading and can't find anything about this problem. I have been going thru my recently acquired deuce and when looking at the transfer case lever and trying to figure out why it was just free to move up and down I noticed that the linkage from t.case to lever is broke......snapped in half. That is a pretty good size linkage to snap like that. Sooo I am going to pull it this spring seeing how the truck is pretty much perfect other than that! I just haven't had the need for low yet and wanted to pick y'all's brain and get as much info as I can!
Thanks for all the priceless knowledge shared on this site as well!

 

[Mullaney]

Hello all, I have been reading and can't find anything about this problem. I have been going thru my recently acquired deuce and when looking at the transfer case lever and trying to figure out why it was just free to move up and down I noticed that the linkage from t.case to lever is broke......snapped in half. That is a pretty good size linkage to snap like that. Sooo I am going to pull it this spring seeing how the truck is pretty much perfect other than that! I just haven't had the need for low yet and wanted to pick y'all's brain and get as much info as I can!
Thanks for all the priceless knowledge shared on this site as well!

.
Hi Mick,

Guessing this is a manual transmission Deuce that you have?

I have seen some pretty well cobbled together linkage under those trucks. Where the linkage connects to the TC lever casting and at the TC itself are hardened pins with spring pins to hold them in place. Over the years rust takes its toll and some linkage parts drop off into the dirt and sand.

Maybe take a few pictures and show us what you have.

The transmission tunnel - if the bolts aren't rusty - will give you a topside workspace if it can easily be removed.

 

[Mick's Deuce]

.
Hi Mick,

Guessing this is a manual transmission Deuce that you have?

I have seen some pretty well cobbled together linkage under those trucks. Where the linkage connects to the TC lever casting and at the TC itself are hardened pins with spring pins to hold them in place. Over the years rust takes its toll and some linkage parts drop off into the dirt and sand.

Maybe take a few pictures and show us what you have.

The transmission tunnel - if the bolts aren't rusty - will give you a topside workspace if it can easily be removed.

Yes it's a 1970. Thank you as soon as the rain stops I will get some pics and repair! You guys are great! I have spent do many hours reading on this site my deuce is even jealous! Haha