• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Transfer Case Shift Rod Seal Leak

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
i've searched transfer case leak threads and none of them discuss a leak from the range shift rod. this is where i believe my leak i coming from, and when the transfer is good and hot, it leaks pretty well. ["pretty well" = half-dollar sized puddle after about 1 minute once parked]

i've looked through the 34 TMs and it seems as though the transfer needs to be removed and split in order to punch out and replace the shift rod seal. ... and if going through all that, might as well rebuild the rest. that's a good bunch of work.

the second problem is that i'm finding conflicting information on the part numbers for this seal.

so has anyone ever replaced this seal either for a leak or during a rebuild? if so, good part number for a replacement?

lastly, does this sound like a worth-while effort or simply a) replace w/ a good take-out transfer or b) simply monitor oil level an keep topped off?

thoughts?


TIA

:beer:
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
I did this a few years ago. I removed the passenger seat and floor panels to access the small cover on the top of the transfer case. There is a set screw and safety wire, which when removed, allow you to pull out the shift rod. Then use a seal puller to remove the seal. Replace the seal and reassemble.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
It has been awhile since I have done this; I hope that I remember it right. I believe that I pulled the seal from the outside. I kept track of all of the seal part numbers but they are at work. Should be able to find it tomorrow.
 

wcolt45

Member
134
0
16
Location
parkersburg west virginia
Done mine a few months ago, i bent the end of an old flat blade screwdriver into a hook ,kinda like a mini crowbar,just hook it and pull,try to make sure you get a double lip seal,first time it was a single lip and started leaking again,the double is working fine,also may want to use some fine emery cloth on the shaft just to smooth it up a bit.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,994
2,558
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Deuce T-Case shift shaft seal:


  • Shaft diameter:1.00”
  • Housing bore: 1.50”
  • Housing depht: 0.40”:

Seal numbers:


  • C/R-SKF: #9876 or #9878
  • Timken: #471224 or #470553
  • Clark: TB2 1.000-1.500-0.312



G.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
I am pretty sure that I used two shaft seals; one after another. The second seal stick out slightly but still helps.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks