Truck shutting off after driving/ return valve?

[jdemaris]

QUOTE=Iamnewatthis;778438]Okay, I looked and there is a metal tag hanging off of the top cover, its not triangular, its a straight tag hanging off with the letter "E" on it.
Also are the pressure regulator valve and the return valve the same thing?
I though we were talking about the return valve.
I put pics up a page back of what i cleaned.
Thank you for the part #'s.[/QUOTE]

Stanadyne calls the fitting the "housing pressure regulator." That being said, it also acts as one-way return fuel valve -so it goes by several names.

That metal tag with the letter "E" means your pump was already updated. 'E" stands for "elastomer insert drive." The service bulletin for this fix was sent out by GM on July 1, 1985. Updated # 85-105

 

[Iamnewatthis]

I will get a new return valve tmrrw.
Thanks again for all your help.
Greatly appreitiated.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Pressure-regulator valve - Stanadyne and Spaco # 15830.
General Motors # 10149645

Maybe you ought to check that valve and verify IF it's actually plugged. If it IS, you' ve got an internal pump problem. Nothing in the fuel coming to the pump, can make it's way all the way through to plug that fitting where excess fuel exits.

Since your rig is a model year 1985, I don't know if you've got the bad pump, or not. And note that if it WAS one of the early bad ones, and got updated, it is supposed to have a triangle-shape ID tag on it to show it was fixed.

Here's a list of 1985 pumps, from early to late.

DB2829-4386 23500256 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4521 Note 2
DB2829-4410 23500251 1985 HD C/K & P Truck C/K DB2829-4544 Note 2
DB2829-4411 23500252 1985 HD G Van G DB2829-4509 Note 2
DB2829-4412 23500253 1985 HD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4510 Note 2
DB2829-4413 23500254 1985 HD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4511 Note 2
DB2829-4425 14077168 1985 LD C/K Truck C/K DB2829-4502 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4426 14077171 1985 LD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4506 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4427 14077169 1985 LD G Van G DB2829-4503 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4428 14077170 1985 LD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4507 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4437 23500273 1985 LD C/K Truck - CAL. C/K — —
DB2829-4439 23500275 1985 LD G Van - CAL. (Auto. & Man. Trans.) G — —
DB2829-4440 23500276 1985 HMMWV (Military) - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4523 Note 2
DB2829-4441 23500277 1985 HD C/K & P Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4512 Note 2
DB2829-4471 23500398 1985 HMMWV (Military) C/K DB2829-4524 Note 2

Okay, so i went to oreillys today and auto zone and neither the stanadyne nor the GM part numbers work for them. Anyone have a borg warner part number or other idea how to aquire the pressure reg. valve?

Also, i went to change the glow plug temp switch and the one they sold me (part # aquired here) is a 2 spade plug and mine is a single plug. A plastic housing inside a rubber on the male end and a plastic housed female end. Anyone know the part #
for a single plug glow plug temp switch?
Thanks.

 

[jdemaris]

Okay, so i went to oreillys today and auto zone and neither the stanadyne nor the GM part numbers work for them.

Also, i went to change the glow plug temp switch and the one they sold me (part # aquired here) is a 2 spade plug and mine is a single plug. .

Many 80s diesel trucks use two temp switches, not just one. The two-prong switch is the "inhibit switch"; not temp sensor switch. IThe two priong switch prevents the glow plugs from working when the engine is warm. It's a useless device and was eliminated in later vehices. I'm tallking about civilian diesel trucks and Blazers - not sure about the military. Many parts people mistake it for something else, because it's often called the "glow plug temp swith."

If you got a two prong switch, e.g. Delco 23504005 or 212319 for $18-$20, it's the inhibit switch. NOT what you want.

The single prong temp switch that runs your temp gauge in the dashboard it probably the one you need. 8992016, 8993105, 8993106, 8993107, 8993372 if 1/2" pipe thread, or 25036135, 8992508, 8993146, 8993164 if 3/8" pipe thread.

For injection pump parts - the last place I'd look would be a common auto-parts store. Even if they COULD get it, you'd get overcharged. And GM has dropped a lot of parts support for most anything that's 10-15 years old.

I buy all my Stanadyne parts from this place. They ship fast and sell to anyone. USDiesel / US Diesel -- Fuel injection replacement parts, tools, and equipment US Diesel in Fort Worth Texas . 800-328-0037.

 

[lavarok]

I was under the assumption that a clogged return line valve is indicative of the rubber seals breaking down and wearing out. Which in turn will mean the pump will start leaking eventually, even if the "return line check valve" is replaced. This has been my expierence on more than one CUCV.

If you want to verify the issue is a clog, install a threaded pipe fitting with a barb to replace said "valve". Straight through with no valve. If the truck runs after this, then I would say the original valve is clogged and your heading towards seal failure. Some guys just punch the glass bead from the inside of their valves rather than install a barbed fitting. A small screwdriver and hammer will do this easily.

At this point you haven't verified a new valve will do anything to solve your problem, so no point in buying a new one yet.

Also, shift points will NOT be affected by said valve. No way, no how. Shift points are vacuum controlled by the vac pump, vac regulator (on side of ip), lines, and tranny regulator. If monkeying around under the hood changes shift points without directly modifying any of the underlying components than perhaps you knocked into one of them and need to recheck your vac line connections and the regulator on the side of the ip.

 

[jdemaris]

I was under the assumption that a clogged return line valve is indicative of the rubber seals breaking down and wearing out. .

I've been repairing Stanadyne/Roosamaster pumps for 40 years. I have never seen an internal seal cause that regulator/check-valve to plug. The major cause of that was the plastic (pellathane) dampener on the governor, inside the pump. It was completely eliminated in 1985. Pumps that had this ring got updated at first repair. When they HAVE been updated, they get a metal tag with a big "E" on it.

These early plastic dampener rings turnerd brown and got brittle, and the would shatter. Little piece then run though the pump and keep plugging that "regulator valve" where all the excess fuel leaves the pump.

In 1985, all highway vehicles used the new EID setup instead (elastomer insert drive. Off-road stuff gets an optional solid metal drive to eliminate that plastci ring.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Also, shift points will NOT be affected by said valve. No way, no how. Shift points are vacuum controlled by the vac pump, vac regulator (on side of ip), lines, and tranny regulator. If monkeying around under the hood changes shift points without directly modifying any of the underlying components than perhaps you knocked into one of them and need to recheck your vac line connections and the regulator on the side of the ip.

Perhaps what you say is true, but I know for a fact that the times I have had to clean my fuel return valve, the 1009 was shifting funny. After cleaning it was back to shifting normal again. I mainly noticed it from when it was going from 2nd to 3rd.

However, I will pay attention to the other hoses on the IP the next time I have to clean the valve.

I'll have to break out the video recorder next time it happens.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

After driving it to and fro for a couple of days, it died again.
I went home, got some tools and some "gibs", removed the return valve, cleaned it, sprayed gibs in the top cover and it started.
Its parked until i go thru the whole fuel system and know that the problem is fixed.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Pressure-regulator valve - Stanadyne and Spaco # 15830.
General Motors # 10149645

Maybe you ought to check that valve and verify IF it's actually plugged. If it IS, you' ve got an internal pump problem. Nothing in the fuel coming to the pump, can make it's way all the way through to plug that fitting where excess fuel exits.

Since your rig is a model year 1985, I don't know if you've got the bad pump, or not. And note that if it WAS one of the early bad ones, and got updated, it is supposed to have a triangle-shape ID tag on it to show it was fixed.

Here's a list of 1985 pumps, from early to late.

DB2829-4386 23500256 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4521 Note 2
DB2829-4410 23500251 1985 HD C/K & P Truck C/K DB2829-4544 Note 2
DB2829-4411 23500252 1985 HD G Van G DB2829-4509 Note 2
DB2829-4412 23500253 1985 HD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4510 Note 2
DB2829-4413 23500254 1985 HD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4511 Note 2
DB2829-4425 14077168 1985 LD C/K Truck C/K DB2829-4502 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4426 14077171 1985 LD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4506 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4427 14077169 1985 LD G Van G DB2829-4503 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4428 14077170 1985 LD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4507 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4437 23500273 1985 LD C/K Truck - CAL. C/K — —
DB2829-4439 23500275 1985 LD G Van - CAL. (Auto. & Man. Trans.) G — —
DB2829-4440 23500276 1985 HMMWV (Military) - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4523 Note 2
DB2829-4441 23500277 1985 HD C/K & P Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4512 Note 2
DB2829-4471 23500398 1985 HMMWV (Military) C/K DB2829-4524 Note 2

JD, was at the local diesel shop to pick up my valve, 15830 is not the right part number. That number is for a john deer they said. This after I looked at the valve and could tell it wasnt the right one. Will post the right part number when i pick it up tomorrow.

 

[stampy]

Dumb question...have you checked the tank to make sure the sock isn't plugged with rust or algae? Mine exhibited the same sypmtoms when that happened.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Dumb question...have you checked the tank to make sure the sock isn't plugged with rust or algae? Mine exhibited the same sypmtoms when that happened.

what is the "sock" and where is it.

 

[coyote_hunter]

Have you broke the glass ball out or installed an open fitting in place of the check valve? If you just install a new check valve it will soon be plugged again.

I'm guessing the sock is refering to the pick up tube inside of your fuel tank. It's more likely the check valve is the problem though.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Okay so the local guy wants to charge me 22 bucks for the new valve.
Also, I just now noticed the water drain valve on the bottom right of the filter base is missing the
screw. So this has got to be the real problem right? Its sucking air in thru the water drain?
I guess it must have rattled out or something.
Guess I'll check oreillys tomorrow for a new screw/plug unless someone knows where to get it.

 

[jdemaris]

Okay so the local guy wants to charge me 22 bucks for the new valve.
Also, I just now noticed the water drain valve on the bottom right of the filter base is missing the
screw. So this has got to be the real problem right? Its sucking air in thru the water drain?
I guess it must have rattled out or something.
Guess I'll check oreillys tomorrow for a new screw/plug unless someone knows where to get it.

That valve design got changed late 80s, to address cold starting problems.

"New" valve is GM # 10149645. Stanadyne # is probably # 15830, but that might of changed too.

For the DB2 pumps used in GM 6.2s/early 6.5s, and Ford-International 6.9s and early 7.3s - there are only two choices. # 15830 has 1/8" pipe threads, and # 21252 has UNF 7/16" O-ring threads.

The "sock" in your tank is a fine mesh screen that can plug with diesel bacteria IF you have that problem.

If you are getting air in your fuel, I'd first suspect a rust-hole in the fuel line back by the tank. Since the fuel pump puts suction on that line, instead of fuel pressure, it will NOT leak fuel on the ground to warn you.

I've got many screws from filter-bases, and many complete fitler assemblies laying around. That included the older two-filter system and the newer single rectangle filter.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

That valve design got changed late 80s, to address cold starting problems.

"New" valve is GM # 10149645. Stanadyne # is probably # 15830, but that might of changed too.

For the DB2 pumps used in GM 6.2s/early 6.5s, and Ford-International 6.9s and early 7.3s - there are only two choices. # 15830 has 1/8" pipe threads, and # 21252 has UNF 7/16" O-ring threads.

The "sock" in your tank is a fine mesh screen that can plug with diesel bacteria IF you have that problem.

If you are getting air in your fuel, I'd first suspect a rust-hole in the fuel line back by the tank. Since the fuel pump puts suction on that line, instead of fuel pressure, it will NOT leak fuel on the ground to warn you.

I've got many screws from filter-bases, and many complete fitler assemblies laying around. That included the older two-filter system and the newer single rectangle filter.

JD, thanks so much, so do you know where i can get this valve. I have looked online all over the place, cant find it.
Local guy wants to charge me 22 bucks for one. All the threads i keep reading are saying its a 8 dollar part.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Okay so I got filter base 4309 and filters from fleet filter.
Got brass fittings and new fuel lines from hardware store.
After getting all the stuff out of the way to do that figured i might as well do one more thing so removed the intake manifold. loosened all the connections at the injection pump, break free'd the threads and retightened. replaced rubber fuel line to IP. Put it back together to specs.
Replaced all the other rubber fuel lines i could find;
Frame, two by the fuel pump, and the return line on top.
Put some gibbs in the return valve.
Drilled a hole in the bracket that attaches to fire wall, attached 4309 base,
reattached everything to fire wall.
Used a siphon pump i got at wall mart to pull fuel up to the filter base, filled fuel filter,
attached, pushed some fuel into the IP fuel line, attached it to outgoing fitting.
Cranked truck about 3 times and it runs.
Last time I thought I fixed the problem by cleaning the return valve but after 3 days it conked out again.
Hopefully the missing water drain valve/screw was the only problem.
I did check the fuel line everywhere i could get to for any holes, didnt see any, so short trips for now and we'll see what happens.
Still would like to buy a new return valve, but no one around here can get their act together.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Pics;

 

[Iamnewatthis]

okay, this beast is still cutting out.
I cannot find a hole in the fuel line.
I replaced all rubber fuel line sections.
I replaced the fuel pump(that was a barrel of fun)
I have removed and cleaned the return valve about 3 times.
I used a siphon pump to pull fuel from the tank to the fuel pump,
then i pulled it from the in line that goes to the fuel filter, and filled the filter.
I have also replaced the factory filter base and filter with the 4309 set up, pics are
above.
It started after allot of cranking but died 1/4 mile from the driveway, nice workout
pushing it back with my kid, lol.
Any ideas would be great. Thanks.

 

[stampy]

did you clean out the "sock" in the tank?

 

[stampy]

I put in an electric fuel pump for those times when she loses prime. 12v starts her every time.