True Cost of Ownership

[EP34FR]

I've been really wanting to get an LMTV recently (preferably a M1079 to outfit for overlanding). While I realize they are relatively cheap to purchase, I'm wondering what the true cost of ownership is.

Excluding routine maintenance items (like oil changes), insurance, etc., in your experience, what has been the true cost to own one? How much should one set aside for the "now this is broke!?" type issues, and how often do they seem to happen? I realize these things are 20+ years old and were used and abused, so I'm not expecting to drive it off the lot like a "normal" vehicle, and I also realize that each LMTV will be in it's own level of serviceable condition...but, in your experience, how often have you had to fix things, how much has it cost, and has there ever been a time when you thought to yourself, "this thing is more trouble than it's worth!"?

Even if I find one that's in great condition, I'd still rather have to spend my money on overlanding upgrades than mechanical fixes to even get the truck to run, but realize I'll still need to make repairs. Just wondering how much I need to have in the bank before I ever decide to move forward with purchasing one. Would I be better off purchasing one from one of the companies that buys them from the govt., then fixes them up? Granted, the cost would be $20-30,000 vs. the $2-3,000 from gov planet, but would it be worth it?

Thanks for your input!

 

[tennmogger]

Buying directly from Gov auction is high risk as you know. Buying a checked-out LMTV from someone who does this as a hobby (ie, for money!!) is much lower risk. Find out what they warrant. Beware the reseller who just passes it along with a high mark-up. That truck could still have original failures, or modifications not exactly "engineered".

Cost to maintain a running truck is not bad at all. Read this forum for the little things that go wrong, as in electrical shorts, air system issues, CTIS, etc. You won't find very many FMTV's that initially run good and then have a big failure, like engine. A seller should be willing to run oil tests on engine and transmission if you request it.

Most things to fix are not expensive. Of course a door handle might break ($300+), a cab suspension airbag(s) burst ($250 or more each), air system components: could add up but generally not expensive, a full set of batteries, etc. These are a few higher dollar failures that come to mind.

Any old truck is a risk but my opinion is that LMTV's are a great buy.

 

[Floridianson]

Don't for get to add the cost of installing the AC system and sound / heat proofing. With out AC your looking at maybe 10 miles per gallon and five pounds per hour weight loss.

 

[FloridaAKM]

 

[Awesomeness]

As I've said in other posts (and you should search for other posts, because this question is asked and answered way too many times), if you're having to ask, you are already not going to like the answer. If you're not coming at this like "I want this thing, and will do whatever it takes" then you're going to get to "It's not worth it" really quick.

Keep in mind that while you pay $5000-25000 for it, that's irrelevant, and the government paid $100,000+ for it, so all the repairs are for a $100,000 truck. New single parts are basically as much as a used 4x4... $1500 alternators, $1200 starters, $3000 axle gears, $500 fan clutch, etc. You can buy used take-offs for less, which don't inspire real confidence, and NOS which are better, but still leave you wondering how good the seals will be in a part that was manufactured 10-15 years ago.

I joke that the magic number is $500. Every couple months I find some new thing to fix, and the cost seems to be $500 most of the time. Fan clutch was stuck, a NOS one plus the new fan to fit it was $500. Steering box leaking, and picked one up for $500. Replacing the cracked transmission cooler hard lines with custom-made soft lines, $500. New windshield with gasket, $500. New cargo cover, $500. 2 gallons of CARC, $500. Have a big wrecker tow it home, $500. And so on. This is probably in line with my previous statement that instead of buying fixes for a $30,000 car, you're buying them for a $100,000+ truck, so everything is 3-4x as much.

Total cost of ownership... I bought my truck for $10,000 about 4 years ago (+$3000 shipping), and I've probably put another $20000-30000 into it. I destroyed an engine because I didn't have the driveshafts checked, so that was a big $7000 chunk. I also like getting some of the upgrades and cool military special kits, like the Light Material Handling Crane, step bumper, 3.07:1 gears, self-recovery winch, M1082 trailer, new cargo cover, real CARC paint, etc. Many things can be done cheaper ways, but I generally like doing it "right"/authentically, which costs more. Part of keeping costs down is buying things when they are cheapest, not when you need them right now, which also means spending money and time on things that aren't broken yet.

And for the record, even the 7 gallon oil change and the filters are like $300.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

Agree with previous comments. I would add the following. If a component her rubber or plastic, it will likely need to be replaced. Especially trucks used in high ambient heat areas. Heat and UV eat these components. An old radiator fan with plastic components can take out a radiator. Fans are fairly inexpensive, but radiators are not. Most components can cross to a semi truck, but some clearly are not easily crossed. Rare components can cost dearly. Examples would be cab glass, drag links, some hydraulic cylinders and there are many others. If you don't have to have OEM you can save a lot. Door handles for example. At some point, spares will be used up, but a the same time less people are interested in Old military trucks for the long haul. The newer generation just has a much shorter attention span.

 

[simp5782]

For the price a 1079 brings it would be cheaper to go with a 1078 standard cargo and then install or build your own box. A m109 deuce box would be about that size. Would even be more simple with a 1088 and simply substitute a m934 box onto it and gut the expando sides or leave it similar to a 1087 just without the cab to box gap of space. A 934 expando box is 300 sq ft and can be purchased for around $1500 along with a $4500 truck price.

Cost also reflects what you can do yourself. If you are buying parts Just to have other people do the labor it will get expensive. quick.

Scan Ebay daily or atleast weekly to buy certain parts cheaper than retail since every little bit helps. Searching for parts based on various numbers or phrases can yield different prices as one seller may not have a clue what he has for sale.

On the other note green stuff does seem to multiply so expect your budget to include 2 trucks. Cause it will happen. Investing in a wrecker Is another great purchase for working on this heavy stuff

 

[Reworked LMTV]

Beware of parts on Fleabay listed with vague descriptions with LMTV in title. Make sure that the military number of the part is listed and that you cross it. Most honest sellers will give you more info. People will put LMTV in the title just to attract attention and move drab green parts. Got burned one time.

 

[wheelspinner]

I have a nice 1078 in central NC, engine has been upgraded to 290hp vs standard 225, high speed gears, a new front axle in the gear swap, newer Goodyear’s on it, driven for two years now. Runs perfect. All it needs now is the pretty paint. I had it listed for $19k and when you add it all up it’s worth every penny. If you are interested let me know.

 

[EP34FR]

Thanks for the info so far!

For the price a 1079 brings it would be cheaper to go with a 1078 standard cargo and then install or build your own box.

I agree. I could probably build something just as easy. Heck, I've even thought about something with a dump bed and winch mounted so I could load/unload whatever box unit I build haha.

I have a nice 1078 in central NC

I wish I was ready to purchase one, cause I'd def. be in touch...especially being as close to you as I am. I'm just in my very initial, daydreaming stages of wanting to outfit a MV for overlanding/off-road camping. Just trying to get an idea of how much I could expect it to cost to maintain, which factors into feasibility of the whole concept.


Another factor is that most of my destinations are a 4-5 hour drive (5-6 hours in a LMTV I'm sure), maybe once a month or so; so, that's something to take into consideration as well. Mileage and wear & tear will add up a little faster.

 

[Awesomeness]

Another factor is that most of my destinations are a 4-5 hour drive (5-6 hours in a LMTV I'm sure), maybe once a month or so; so, that's something to take into consideration as well. Mileage and wear & tear will add up a little faster.

~300 miles to destination, ~600 miles round trip, at ~6MPG, equals ~100 gallons of diesel, or $300

 

[simp5782]

He would be lucky to get 3 mpg if he heads towards the smokies along i40. And that 4 to 5 hours may become 7 or more. In the western Carolina country or i95 thru south Virginia with a loaded 3116 truck to average around 40 to 45mph on the interstate.

Anywhere in the gorge it will be 30 to 35 avg

So in my opinion buy an A1 or A1P1. Or a 916/920 and carry whatever you want

 

[Awesomeness]

He would be lucky to get 3 mpg if he heads towards the smokies along i40. And that 4 to 5 hours may become 7 or more. In the western Carolina country or i95 thru south Virginia with a loaded 3116 truck to average around 40 to 45mph on the interstate.

Anywhere in the gorge it will be 30 to 35 avg

So in my opinion buy an A1 or A1P1. Or a 916/920 and carry whatever you want

My gas mileage doesn't change much. It's basically 5MPG at worst (loaded, driving over I-70 from Denver to Utah, or in heavy offroad terrain) and 7MPG at best (unloaded, driving across Arizona on relatively flat terrain).

With the 290HP engine and 3.07:1 gears, I can maintain about 45MPH minimum on the steepest highway grades. I don't remember exactly what I could do stock, but those two mods kind of cancel each other out (29% more HP, 22% worse gearing). Tires at 55PSI.

 

[EP34FR]

~300 miles to destination, ~600 miles round trip, at ~6MPG, equals ~100 gallons of diesel, or $300

That's why I want to know how much it's going to cost to maintain (approximately and on average). $300 a month for fuel is going to be bad enough haha. And, yes simp5782...most of my camping is done in the mountains of NC and VA. Bad part about living in eastern NC but being a fan of the mountains...everything is so far away.


At this point, I feel like I have enough reasons to not purchase one. I think I need some reasons to get one! haha

 

[frank8003]

Fuel cost is not a consideration of the M35A2
Buy one that somebody has maintained, can tell you all about it.
Get an Air Force Deuce and your efforts and money will not be wasted.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...of-ownership-(the-real-cost-of-a-deuce)/page7

 

[Awesomeness]

I think I need some reasons to get one!

Because they are awesome, and have a ton of capabilities. But they do cost a lot to own and operate, so if you're unsure if you can stomach the cost, you've already lost. You have to want it enough that the cost doesn't matter, because if you don't have some other requirement that excludes smaller trucks or regular civilian medium duty trucks those are always going to be cheaper and easier to maintain. I don't want to talk you out of it, but that's the reality of it. There are a people who buy these trucks because they need them (e.g. loggers, farmers, etc.), but if you're not one of them, you're just paying for awesomeness because you want to.

 

[frank8003]

Hey
I justeed liked the awesomeness
That is right up there with the sticktoitniffness.