Trying to bring an 002 back to life

[massey]

A while back I won a couple 002's and had to rob several parts from one to get the other one going (which was the plan from the start I imagine).

This one wouldn't run well or respond to throttle inputs so it became the donor. I have decided to start gathering parts and see if this will be a good unit.

I built an injector tester and found poor to no pop or pattern from the nozzles.
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy79/jetmech1/003-16_zpsd99cb635.jpg

So I ordered two new nozzles/pintles and that fixed that problem.
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy79/jetmech1/002-18_zpsf1c43342.jpg

The fuel pumps were a little stubborn but they saw the error of their ways and are now working.

Cleaned out the tank and that looks good inside.

Have another injection pump coming from Jerry.

The muffler was about broken off so I tried my hand at stainless welding with the mig and this should be good enough for a temporary fix.
Anyone have a good spare for sale? Just missed out on Jerry's
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy79/jetmech1/004-15_zpsbe5c62e3.jpg
I'm looking forward to seeing if this is going to be a good one.

Ed

 

[RayK]

Could you put up a few more details on the injector tester - I'd like to build one.

 

[massey]

Here's some close-ups of what I did. If you google homemade injection tester you will find many plans, I cannot remember which ones I used as I used several as a guide. I went with all high pressure fittings from McMaster Carr. I used an injection line as it already had the correct end for the injector and used 52215k455 as the adapter from the pump.

Gage 3845k23

fittings 50925k343, 50925k134, 50925k345, 50925k198.

It all depends on what threads are on the end of the pump you will use as to the fittings but I would recommend the good High pressure ones as these pumps make alot of pressure and diesel injected under the skin is a very bad thing (images of this can also be found on google)

 

[Triple Jim]

Looking around the web a little, I guess the hard part is finding a pump while retaining all one's body parts.

 

[massey]

Good news on this one. I finally got around to working on it again and with a good pump from Jerry she fired right up. The rpm was still advancing on its own even with the throttle cable pushed in all the way in (same condition even with another pump but not the reason I needed a pump). What I found was the governor linkage was adjusted too short and it was pulling up on the injection pump lever all the time. So I did the Chinese blueprint and matched it to another one, that solved that problem. I had it loaded at 75% for about 40min. and all the parameters were steady.

Flow testing the pump however shows I need a #14 button so I have to source that and would still like to find a good muffler, but I'm glad this is a good operable unit.

Ed

 

[dangier]

Great to hear members are picking up quality units.
Good job!

I have one resurrected and believe the other will be shortly.

David

 

[storeman]

Ed,
Well done! Now I'm jealous of your injector tester. Looks better than the one you saw in my basement. Who did you get the injector components from, AMBAC?
Jerry

 

[massey]

Jerry,

Thanks, you gave me the idea to build my own. I ordered the nozzles/pintle right from AMBAC part# ADN6S526. Great people to deal with.

Ed

 

[storeman]

Thanks Ed.

 

[steelypip]

Flow testing the pump however shows I need a #14 button so I have to source that and would still like to find a good muffler, but I'm glad this is a good operable unit.

Ed

We have a thread on here (still in progress) involving output testing with different buttons - basically quantifying the effect of to-spec versus different degrees of off-spec timing on the MEP-002A/003A gensets.

Since you know what you've got now, please see if you can do a measured load test with your current button and then do the same test again with the correct (#14) button. Be sure to record ambient temp (and ideally barometer and humidity) numbers for both tests so we can get apples-to-apples numbers.

 

[massey]

steelypip,

I have been following that threat with great interest. Unfortunately I do not have a load bank, I just feed the garage and turn lights/motors on. I just checked my notes on this unit again and it is a #16 button I need as I have a #12 in right now and the pc mark is two hash marks above the pointer.

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pc
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- <

 

[steelypip]

One nice thing about the 002 is that it's small enough that you can fake a load bank with space heaters, coffee pots, hot plates, etc. Just plug resistance loads into your garage until you've got the generator working well. Make note of the load in some way (ideally with a clamp-on ammeter on the output leads), and note droop, etc. Then swap buttons and do it again. As long as your loads and measurement methods are consistent, your data will be as well. Just how spiffy the load looks really doesn't matter at all. My initial load bank for my 002 was four space heaters, a hair dryer, and some light bulbs...

At least one user here was using nothing more than a cooktop for a load bank. They work well, are adjustable, are consistent, and can usually had for free from somebody remodeling. Extra points for the old-school cooktops with two coils that don't use a cycling thermostatic switch to control the heat output.