Trying to dismount a tire

[Floridianson]

Got it together a couple days ago and tested it, worked good up 50psi and then started leaking. No better than what I'm already dealing with. I suspected it might do that since I saw a few spots that looked like it might not maintain contact with the two sealing surfaces. I will get the o-rings but had a question before I ordered enough for all the rims. I've seen two different styles of sealing surfaces, the tapered rim seats on Ken Nelson's rims (Nelson studios on YouTube) and the type on this one rim I already have apart that pinches the o-ring and holds it in place. Ken said that his rim had a 5/8-18 studs, whereas all mine are the 3/4-16 studs. Can I count on all my rims being the same as the one I've already pulled apart? And 1/4" seems a bit small for an o-ring on this rim, do I need the 3/8" ones instead?

Thanks

Did the web sight with the wheel and there numbers help with your question. I have combat rims and matched my wheel number to the web sight and got the correct ones at 1/4. I don't believe in running a bigger O ring than what the wheel calls for. Double check both half's of mating service and clean them out good with air and use tire soap on O ring and tire. My new combat wheels came with two regular nuts holding the wheel together. I use the two regular nuts across from each other to pull the two half's together evenly. Then use the distorted nuts on the rest of the studs taking them down to snug. I replace the two regular nuts with the last two distorted nuts and tighten to specs.

 

[Mos68x]

Yes, according to the spreadsheet it'll be the 1/4" one. I looked at the old o-ring and think it is the right size. I just hope that all the sealing surfaces will be in as good of condition as this one that I already pulled apart.

 

[Mos68x]

Thanks again 98G for the o-rings. I would've started working on the tires right away but had that other issue that had to be dealt with first (at least my freezer is full now lol)

 

[Mos68x]

According to the all knowing Google, these are the 5/16 o-rings. Although they were second hand from 98, they still appear to be in working condition. Got the wheel and rim together and then started the battle to change the right front tire out since it goes nearly completely flat overnight now. When I checked for leaks in this rim I did still see a very slight leak near the valve stem, but it is very minor and hopefully manageable. Tomorrow I will start dealing with the tire that is RTV'd all the way around the rim between the halves.

 

[Mos68x]

This was one of the rims with RTV and surprisingly it separated really easily. So easy that I thought I had left air in the tire. They used so much RTV that the o-ring never got crushed at all. So at least I can reuse this o-ring since all I had to do was clean off all the rust that was stuck to it. It was a bit of a beat to get the nuts loose though, even with my friends 1" impact and 160psi. Had 4 that really didn't want to budge, but after playing with it I got them all off. I had wanted to clean the threads on this rim too, but I seem to have misplaced my die, the 3-4 ratchet and the 1-7/16 socket. If I can find them tomorrow I'll clean the threads on this rim too, but if not I'll just put it back together since these weren't bad at all.

 

[Mos68x]

I got the tire together today and put air in it, but it leaked around the o-ring. I didn't feel like fooling with it so I just pulled the 1/4" o-ring out a put in one of the 5/16" ones instead. No leaks then so I went to work swapping it with one of the rears tires. In all I changed two tires today since I wanted the worst tires on the very back axle. I did notice something that worried me a little. So far both rear tires that I have dealt with were not torqued on very well. I do have a torque multiplier lug nut tool that I got from CSM Davis but I barely had to put any effort into removing the lug nuts. I make sure that when I put the tires on the lug nuts are really tight with the torque multiplier, especially on the drivers side. I can get them almost as tight, or at least tight enough to make me happy on the passenger side with my 1/2" impact. When I get the 3/4" impact I will probably go over all the lug nuts again, just to be safe. Tomorrow I'll take the next tire into town to remove the rim nuts again and clean everything up. I know that you're not supposed to use an impact to run the tapping dies down, but using the ratchet just takes way too long. Besides as long as you are careful, back off the die often, and use lots of oil, it'll work fine. It'll probably wear out my die faster, but I can deal with that. When I put this last tire together I'll use my last o-ring that I got from 98G so I'll have to order more of these 5/16" o-rings (OR20TUA) as they seem to be well worth the $15 for each. I might order one of the 1/4" ones since they are only $3 just so that I can compare it to the one that came out of the last rim undamaged at all. If it is the same then I'll just stick with the 5/16" ones done they seem to seal every time without fail for me, unlike my current experiences with the 1/4" ones.

 

[98G]

Be cautious about overtorquing lugnuts. Wheel studs will snap at the most inopportune moments.

If memory serves, 500 ft/lbs is spec.

 

[Mos68x]

Good thing I'm not putting all my weight into then, but if it is 500 ft/lbs then I know for sure that the ones I did today were way too loose. I guess tomorrow while I'm dealing with the tire I'll go ahead and count teach on the torque multiplier and then figure out how many turns it takes to make a full rotation on the lug nut. Then I can figure out how much weight/force should be applied to the handle. I'll also try to remember to try to find the torque spec in the TM too.

 

[Mos68x]

Just for the record I really hate the auto****itup in phones and tablets these days. Just in the last couple posts of mine I've noticed where it changed whole words on me to the point where it almost doesn't make any sense.

 

[therooster2001]

FWIW, I took my truck into a heavy shop after I changed a tire. They had a big ass torque wrench, and torqued it to proper specs. I just don't trust myself on feel or the multiplier. They charged me like $20, but I bet would have done more than one for that. Piece of mind for me.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Just for the record I really hate the auto****itup in phones and tablets these days. Just in the last couple posts of mine I've noticed where it changed whole words on me to the point where it almost doesn't make any sense.

Why not just turn it off? First thing I did to my phone.

 

[Mos68x]

I'd do that if there was o e close enough, but I live out in the boonies so I don't have anything that is close to me at all. By close I mean anything within an hour and a half. I will have to do it myself if I want the truck to make it to civilization lol

 

[Mos68x]

Why not just turn it off? First thing I did to my phone.

I might, but I do use it for the words that I can't remember how to spell or I'm too drunk to spell correctly lol

 

[Mos68x]

Used my last o-ring to fix the last tire last night, not including the soon to be spare tire. I'll change out the tire this mornin after I eat. Still haven't figured out the gearing on the torque multiplier yet, I'll do that when I pull it out to do the tire swap. I still haven't checked any of the tire pressures on the tires I fixed so far so I'll probably do that today, but visually they don't appear to have lost any air which is already a vast improvement considering one would be completely flat by now and the others would be very close to that.

 

[Mos68x]

Got the last tire mounted and spare in the bed, now I can rest until I get new o-rings in to finish up the rest.

This is the torque multiplier I've been using;

24/13 teeth give it a 1.84:1 ratio and with handle being 24in long that means I'd only need to apply 135 pounds at the handle to reach 500ft/lb of torque on the nut. That means even Alice should be able to torque these wheels should she have to. Of course, normally I just use the impact to tighten the nuts on the passenger side of the truck, drivers side still has to be done with the manual tool since my impact isn't strong enough in reverse to torque them to 500.