tsm # for the air compressor rebuild info ? or service specs ?

[sweetk30]

redoing the upper gasket/springs / unloader valve section on a 8.3 in a 936a2 .

anyone got the tsm # off hand for the torque specs for the hardware ?

thanks .

 

[sweetk30]

well figured it all out my self with no tsm info or others posting up .

so for others later on here is the info .

drain coolant from pass side lower radiator tank drain . going to need 5-6 gal out to get down and have room to spare .

undo coolant lines from driver side block to air compressor .

undo suction line from intake port .

undo hard line from top of unloader head and unbolt it from intake . then remove it at the flex hose to firewall. swing up and out of the way on engine .

remove rear unloader head bolts and rear center cap bolt . works better this way as to springs in the system pushing up .

then remove the front unloader head bolts .

this gets tricky . with a mix match of movements cram your hand around the back of the compressor under the injection pump . hold up the 2 corner bolts you couldn't remove 100% and slide / twist the unit around to the engine block . this will get you the room needed for remove all 100% . repeat for front bolt . then slide the whole unit out off the air compressor body .

you might need to unbolt and remove the center cap at some point in this prosses . caution its spring loaded under pressure .

once all out and off clean / check / get kit ready to reinstall.

but from another fellow member in another thread he said check the aluminum unloader head body for flatness . his was way out . mine was also .

cheep trick 1 12"x12" piece of glass . 250-500-800-1000 grit sand paper wet/dry . then start low and figure 8 patter it on the glass with the paper on the glass . lots of lube or water .

it took me 20 or so min to get mine 95% flat - true . then cleaned up the whole upper half parts pile and reinstalled .

in short it can be done on engine . no removal or turning of compressor or injector pump .

haldex 3559545k is the current kit # updated from the old # I was able to fine . this is for 8.3 cummins engines with haldex air compressor .

 

[skihilltruck]

Sweetk30
Reviving an old thread here:
Reman compressor is $1200 around here, so I am trying the cheaper things first.

The first time I took everything out of the truck but when I did the cap flew off the unloader head, so:
1- Im not exactly sure I got everything reassembled exactly correctly.
With the cap off, I put the thin guage 3 loop spring on the bottom, then the washer (assembly based on what looked like it had worn on each other), and then cleaned/sanded/lubed the plunger part that goes up into the cap. Inserted longer spring into plunger, lined up plunger so it could contact then washer and pushed cap down into head with lubed o-ring.
So basically just a clean and reinstall.

Still not building air pressure.
So:
either 1-unloader still stuck
2-gaskets/warped head leaking
3 compressor piston bad.

Will order Hladex parts kit and disassemble per your instructions.
Will check head for flatness and true.

The crux is that I have not found a picture/TM diagram/description of the parts assembly sequence for the unloader. Could you clarify?
Thanks in advance

 

[simp5782]

Sweetk30
Reviving an old thread here:
Reman compressor is $1200 around here, so I am trying the cheaper things first.

The first time I took everything out of the truck but when I did the cap flew off the unloader head, so:
1- Im not exactly sure I got everything reassembled exactly correctly.
With the cap off, I put the thin guage 3 loop spring on the bottom, then the washer (assembly based on what looked like it had worn on each other), and then cleaned/sanded/lubed the plunger part that goes up into the cap. Inserted longer spring into plunger, lined up plunger so it could contact then washer and pushed cap down into head with lubed o-ring.
So basically just a clean and reinstall.

Still not building air pressure.
So:
either 1-unloader still stuck
2-gaskets/warped head leaking
3 compressor piston bad.

Will order Hladex parts kit and disassemble per your instructions.
Will check head for flatness and true.

The crux is that I have not found a picture/TM diagram/description of the parts assembly sequence for the unloader. Could you clarify?
Thanks in advance

Compressor 3558006X is around 380 to 550 exchange. There are several variants for the ss296 unit.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[CARMAN]

well figured it all out my self with no tsm info or others posting up .

so for others later on here is the info .

drain coolant from pass side lower radiator tank drain . going to need 5-6 gal out to get down and have room to spare .

undo coolant lines from driver side block to air compressor .

undo suction line from intake port .

undo hard line from top of unloader head and unbolt it from intake . then remove it at the flex hose to firewall. swing up and out of the way on engine .

remove rear unloader head bolts and rear center cap bolt . works better this way as to springs in the system pushing up .

then remove the front unloader head bolts .

this gets tricky . with a mix match of movements cram your hand around the back of the compressor under the injection pump . hold up the 2 corner bolts you couldn't remove 100% and slide / twist the unit around to the engine block . this will get you the room needed for remove all 100% . repeat for front bolt . then slide the whole unit out off the air compressor body .

you might need to unbolt and remove the center cap at some point in this prosses . caution its spring loaded under pressure .

once all out and off clean / check / get kit ready to reinstall.

but from another fellow member in another thread he said check the aluminum unloader head body for flatness . his was way out . mine was also .

cheep trick 1 12"x12" piece of glass . 250-500-800-1000 grit sand paper wet/dry . then start low and figure 8 patter it on the glass with the paper on the glass . lots of lube or water .

it took me 20 or so min to get mine 95% flat - true . then cleaned up the whole upper half parts pile and reinstalled .

in short it can be done on engine . no removal or turning of compressor or injector pump .

haldex 3559545k is the current kit # updated from the old # I was able to fine . this is for 8.3 cummins engines with haldex air compressor .

So I managed to get all the top bolts loose but as you said can not pull the back ones out due to length and space. I took unloader bolts out for more room but then put them back in to hold it together, but how to you rotate the top with the springs in? I could not remove the unloader with injection pump in the way. Debating just pulling the pump out until I noticed the steering reservoir attached.

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

So I managed to get all the top bolts loose but as you said can not pull the back ones out due to length and space. I took unloader bolts out for more room but then put them back in to hold it together, but how to you rotate the top with the springs in? I could not remove the unloader with injection pump in the way. Debating just pulling the pump out until I noticed the steering reservoir attached.

It's been a few years since I did it but it will come off with the pump in place. Those back bolts are the key to the puzzle.

 

[CARMAN]

So am I taking off just the top “cap” off or am I taking off the top two sections off? Now that I’m staring at it I see where the split is on the cylinder.

 

[CARMAN]

Now I get it. Could not get the top half to separate. Just needed a bigger hammer ��

 

[chad496]

Here are some pictures of the type of failure I experienced with my air compressor M923A2

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[twisted60]

Started taking my unloader apart today to fix my air (not building) issue, here's what I found upon removing unloader section.

I'd say the gasket is shot and she's a little dirty...
Cleaned her up today, will try to do some more cleaning/inspecting tomorrow, replace parts as needed, new gasket and then try to get her back together. Did not remove IP or compressor, it's doable but you need little spider fingers and small hands to get those rear bolts. Fingers crossed she doesn't put up a fight going back on. Had to trim down a 1/2" short socket, now it fits on rear bolt under IP with no issues, that and short and long ratcheting wrenches did the trick. I'll try to take more pic's when putting her back together, no helper so I'll try.