Tub Jig

[mr.travo]

Has anyone made a jig for lifting the tub off and on a chassis?

As many of you probably know the tub is very flimsy toward the tail end. I am having to do a lot of work with body panels (yes rivet in replacements) and would like for everything to be straight while the tub is off. Engine and transmission is out and frame is being reassembled and then powder coated to give a true full restore. This one will be outfitted with 80% new parts and upgraded wiring from the later models.

Thanks for your help!

Travo

 

[dmetalmiki]

Now I'm really playing at "Guess the vehicle",...I lost.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I have done more body off restorations and tub rebuilds than I can remember, I never needed a jig.
all you need to do is support the rear bed area once it's on the ground as if it was on the body.

 

[TedG]

I use the factory pallet that is for shipping it. It work great plus you can fork it around. Else, place on ground and prop rear up level.

 

[mr.travo]

Thanks guys, I have it on the ground and supported.

What will be the easiest way to start replacing these panels? I just have a fear that I'll rivet them on and it's not lined up right. Should I wait and set it on the frame to do it?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

What panals are we taking about? I have done entire trucks sitting on a concrete surface.the panels either line up or they don't...I can tell you from experience, i have seen a lot of panals on factory trucks that have a lot to be desired.

 

[mr.travo]

What panals are we taking about? I have done entire trucks sitting on a concrete surface.the panels either line up or they don't...I can tell you from experience, i have seen a lot of panals on factory trucks that have a lot to be desired.

I am doing some of the front quarter panels. I'll take some pics and post it up for you. I would appreciate your help and advice. This is my first one so I am learning as I go.

Thanks!




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The left panal is the easiest panal on the truck to replace, the right side is a lot more involved, requires the air intake housing be removed.

 

[papakb]

There are a couple of methods to remove the rivets. When I started on mine I just drilled them out with a 3/16" bit but found out I was Siamesing the holes and that makes re-riveting difficult. Then I bought a rivet shaver at Boeing Surplus that's basically an end mill stuck in the end of a high speed pneumatic drill. That's probably the best way to cleanly remove rivets but after shaving the head off you still have to punch out the back of the rivet. Something that's just as important as drilling is the material you use to rebond the panels to each other. I found a material called SikaFlex that is applied with a caulking gun that works really well and never fulls hardens so shocks won't cause your panels to separate. If you have a truck or trailer repair place anywhere nearby they will probably have it. Invest in some 3/16" Cleco fasteners and the pliers for them to do your reassembly, it'll really simplify things for you. Most aircraft and sheet metal places will have them or you can almost always find them online.

Kurt
KG6KMJ

 

[ohiohmmwv]

I was going to use a gantry lift to pull the body off. Is the b pillar bar from the soft top setups strong enough to pull off the body from chassis?

 

[Action]

We used Sikaflex at BAE.
I used the HF gantry with chain hoist attachment. Used ratchet straps around a-pillar over doghouse, and to the d-ring in the tunnel top. They are bolted in structural parts of the body, so that won't damage the bed. Make sure you run straps to the rings by the tailgate or the rear will sag and may bend the metal in front of the rear wheels.