• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

turbo 602?

jollygreen6x6

New member
54
0
0
Would anyone know of someone who has put a turbo on a 602? If(IF) I were to undertake such a project, what would I have to do to the motor in preparation, what turbo would I use, and how would I go about the buisness of the carbuerator? Just a stupid question, but would like serious answers.
 

Elwenil

New member
2,190
40
0
Location
Covington, VA
It could be done, but it wouldn't be worth it. The 602 is the gas engine, if I am thinking correctly, and unless you can have custom low compression pistons and a new cam ground then you won't be able to run any large amount of boost. Then there's the whole deal of custom exhaust manifolds to mount the turbo and working out the intake side of things. If I remember correctly, just putting the boost pressure down the carb tends to mess up the carb a bit since they require engine vacuum to meter the fuel correctly. With a turbo and increased cylinder pressure and heat, a correctly working carb is a must since you are looking at melted parts if the mixture leans out. There have been a lot of turbo conversions on gas V8s lately, probably because of the imports focusing on the turbo so much. It can be a good reliable way to make a lot of power, but as with nitrous or anything else, it requires a lot of thinking and engineering to make it work correctly. In the end, after frying 3 or 4 engines, you may get the right combo to make it work, but again, that wouldn't be worth it.
 

Elwenil

New member
2,190
40
0
Location
Covington, VA
I think the main problem with not idling down a turbo is the lack of oil pressure. Since turbos spin at crazy RPMs and have some really slick bearings they can spin a long time after the engine has been shut down and the oil pressure is gone. If you shut one off while the turbo is still hot, like after a long pull, you get the coking effect which can cause a lot of damage. Either way shuting one off while the turbo is hot and/or spooled up can result in seals cooking and bearings seizing up, as well as other problems.
 

DUUANE

Active member
409
128
43
Location
Qualicum Beach BC
could you imagine a 6602 with a 100hp shot of NOS/fuel injected at each intake runner? :freaked:

there are some pretty good affordable digital injection controllers on the market now.i've seen guys race with insane amounts of boost funnelled through home built intake manifolds made from schedule 40 pipe with custom fuel rails.changing to mpfi is getting a lot easier.

never forget ...if a man made it,a monkey can figure it out.
 
Sorry, this is a little off topic of turbo 'ed 602s, but this seemed like a good place to jump in.

ok, this might be a stupid question, . . . but here goes:

The R6602 has a pathetic 6.4:1 compression ratio, presumably because of the very low octane MOGAS used at the time. Because most of us now buy our gasoline at the local filling station, we are using 87 octane or better. Can any performance gain be had by increasing the compression ratio in the R6602? I suspect that "domed" pistons would have to be custom fabricated - i.e. $$$$$!!!!!!,

. . but how about milling the cylinder heads to decrease the size of the combustion chamber? I know that this is very common for hot rods, street rods, muscle cars, etc. - guys with small block chevys routinely go from 8 or 8.5:1 to tens or elevens. And it's relatively inexpensive. Obviously, we'd need to check valve to piston clearance before we bend something, and is there a need to change ignition timing to prevent pre-ignition pinging?

I'm not thinking about running out and yanking the heads right now, but maybe when it's time for a head gasket replacement . . .

Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? :confused:
 

Elwenil

New member
2,190
40
0
Location
Covington, VA
That would be a relatively easy way to raise the compression. As you said, you have to watch the valve to piston clearance, and assuming the R6602 is similar to conventional gas engines, you may have to make a set of pushrods or adjust the valvetrain in some way. You may also have to do a little timing adjustment, but not a lot. Depends on how high you take the compression. If you don't go above 9.5 to 1 you shouldn't have any problems. You would probably need a custom cam to take more advantage of the power potential, but it should have a noticable difference in power as it is.
 

jollygreen6x6

New member
54
0
0
Alright, two different things to wonder on:


Milling the heads: Who would I take these to in order to have this done, how much would it cost? If compression is at 6.4:1, wouldn't taking it up to 8-8.5:1 require the least engine modification? The valves are the adjustable type, so, assuming nothing is going to hit the piston, wouldn't that range create a healthier running engine the cheapest/most reliably? The engine runs good now(purrs like a 2 ton kitten at 700 rpm) and I really can't justify possibly damaging/destroying something that works perfectly. Simply put, this idea sounds good to me, but I need it explained in detail to me, because I DO NOT grasp vague concepts.



Also, back to turboing the engine, does anyone think that modifying an 80's style EFI system out of a Ford 300 could make adding tha turbo easier? I would be almost willing to try this once I got the parts together, because most of it would be free/cheap, and converting it back to carb would be easy.
 

DUUANE

Active member
409
128
43
Location
Qualicum Beach BC
increasing the compression ratio is the wrong way to go if you want to make power with a turbo.also milling also decreases the thickness of the deck surface of the head allowing a greater chance of warpage and loss of head gasket sealing.you need to pick one or the other.if you want to go the turbo injected route check this out... http://www.haltech.com.au/ they'll have bits that you can use.there is a link for another digital system i had that was pretty reasonable as to cost.i'll try to dig it up for you to check out.

regards
 

Towman2277

New member
507
0
0
Location
Saraland, Alabama
A turbo on a 602 C.I. inline six gas motor is actually a waste of meoney, time and effort. If you just need the turbo whine, go with the diesel. To make more power out of the 602, you need to look at two areas to improve BEFORE you break open the motor, Intake and Exhaust. All a motor is, is a Vacuum Pump. The more air you can get into the combustion chamber ( Via- better open intake system, instead of stock BOX, better carb (Zenith does wonders) and the more air that you can get at, at a faster rate ( better exhaust system, more open muffler, not 40' of pipe) the more power you will make. Remember this is a very large straight six, with a HUGE reciprocating mass (Crank, rods and pistons) that does not need to turn high rpms. A good running and tuned 602 is not fast by any means, but it will pull anything you will ever need to drag. I have done a Zenith carb, very open filter cutstom airbox, and installed a low restriction exhaust without any tight bends, and it is no slouch, spinning 14:00/20's the whole time. The best mod to start with is to improve with what you have stock. If you try nitrous oxide, it will wear your lower crank bearings out fast, unless you have a tight, freshly built motor, or one in excellent shape. Nitrous causes a much higher compression, which tends to "drive hard down on the crank, of course,", and trys to push it out the bottom. And since this is a slow revving six, without a stall and a auto transmission, the truck will not let the motor spin but sooo fast, and that compression will probably go past the rings, into the crankcase for some negative crankcase pressure effects ("hey, why is that oil leak popping up now?". I've tried a few things, except a turbo, and It was always better to improve on the stock design at rebuild, try to get the compression close, but no higher than 9:5-1, and polish the exhaust runners, have a Good valve job done, and mill the heads to have a "true" flat, sealing surface for the gaskets. One thing sometimes overlooked is deck-surface flatness, so always lay a straightedge on the block head surface, and check for warpage. I'm sure some people won't agree with some of this, others probably will, but it comes down to how much money you can spend on your project, and what you want to do with it. Hope I was helpful. Steve
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks