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turbo build.

nationsblake2010

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norfolk v
I got pass and drive side exhaust manifolds and intake manifold yesterday for free what turbo would y'all recommend for just daily driving 8 to 10 psi. Other than fuel pump oil lines block off plate what other things may I need. Anyone have a good gm turbo for sale?
 

tequilaiam

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Brazil, IN
The GM-1 through GM-3 turbos used a simple spring for the wastegate control. Those can be modified to be adjustable (see writeup elsewhere on this site) with a nut. The later GM turbos used vacuum to open the wastegate but those could be modified like the others.Those were borg werner of some type. Don't have mine in front of me. I think banks used a garret of some sort that didn't need a wastegate but they may have had specific A/R ratio compressors.

You could probably get about anything with a wastegate or variable vanes to work if you ran a dual signal actuator and messed around with the plumbing like the riceburner guys do but searching for a GM-x is probably the most straight forward.

What else do you need?
I'm doing this upgrade right now and there's a lot of little bits to think about:
* boost gauge
*EGT gauge if you're a worry wart
*exhaust and intake manifold gaskets
*exhaust manifold studs and bolts - the existing ones are probably too rusty to re use
*DSG stud girdle if you're a worry wart
*heat wrap for the exhaust manifold (I am worried about the GP wires and fuel return hoses getting burned).
*cross over pipe - probably need to fabricate
*clamps for the intake plumbing and exhaust-output turbo port
*exhaust studs/orings/flanges for cross-over pipe and turbo-back exhaust
*heat shield for turbo - available on gmpartsdirect or make one.
*brass couplings/adapters for the oil supply line
*oil drain pipe for turbo - the 6.5 one is a steel tube with flange instead of threads. Buy or make out of steel (or copper?) tube but it has to withstand heat as GM designed it.
*new air filter and housing
*CDR valve calibrated for 6.5TD (in theory anyway) and some new plumbing to vent it before the turbo instake instead of the manifold.

None of the stuff is that difficult or expensive but I'm starting to see why a banks kit is nice just to get all the little hardware and lines.


If you stilll have access to the vehicle your setup came from, try to scavange as many of those little things as possible. Otherwise pick a turbo and get what you need to suit it. Make sure it gets enough oil.
 
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tequilaiam

Member
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Location
Brazil, IN
Crossover pipe connects drivers side exhaust manifold to the bottom part of the drivers one. You'll need to fabricate one to fit properly because the drivers side exhaust from the 6.5 turbo setup hits the frame (or so I'm told, I haven't gotten that far yet) so you just keep the regular exhaust manifold on the drivers side.

It's item #3 in this pic:
That applies to any turbo you get. You still need all the little pieces to get clean air into the turbo and exhaust out and away from the vehicle, which will depend on what turbo you end up buying.


GH92395.gif
 
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nationsblake2010

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norfolk v
So it connects the driver side exhaust manifold to the bottom outlet on the passenger side exhauae manifold? Then item four is the downpipe correct? And that should come off the back of The turbo?
 

av8rnik

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Location
Enterprise, AL
tequilaiam - question for you on the exhaust and intake bolts as those are the alst things i need to get before i install my turbo. What did you do for replacement hardware? Did you replace the hardware with identical hardware or just replace with bolts/studs?

Also, are y'all using any sort of heat blanket for the turbine housing?
 
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