Turbo swap what is needed

[sermis]

I have a parts truck with a D turbo and a good truck with a C turbo. I don't like the C (way too much whine for me) and want to swap the D onto it. What is needed to make the swap? Gaskets, time, etc.
Might even drill and tap for a pyro when off.

 

[Offroadfabworks]

im sure FT will post up this in a little bit. he has it down to a swap in 30 mins or less ..

 

[FreightTrain]

here is what you will need.bunch of Chisels.US made Cold Chisels prefered but in a pinch Chinese will WORK.
Take filter can out(leave top).Remove the C pipe from filter to turbo.Losen clamp on slobber tube.Pull bolt(7/16 I think and you will need an extention) from turbo drain pipe.Remove the intake heater injector.Now pull the slobber tube.Remove rear bolt to drain tube and losen clamp.Wiggle the drain tube and press it down and rotate 180 degrees.
Loosen the clamps for the intake elbow to turbo.Pull the oil supply line from teh turbo and block.Take 4 nuts off the bolts holding the turbo to exhaust manifold(rear 2 are studs).Beat the crap outta the turbo with a dead blow or rubber mallet and drop it outta the way.Clean the mating surface of the exhaust manifold and coresponding turbo side.Clean the oil drain on the turbo of any gasket material.Twist and push the rubber hose on the intake manifold as far north as you can on the elbow.Slobber the old exhaust gasket with Smurf snot and reinstall the turbo you want.Now check the drain tube and see if the gasket is still there.If it is still intact put a thin layer of smurf snot on it and reinstall using only the rear bolt for now and only get it started.Put the oil line back on.Now twist and push the hose from the intake manifold to the turbo making sure it goes around the turbo all the way around.Tighten all the clamps.Install the slobber tube and the front bolt for the drain.Tighten all the bolts one last time.Reinstall the intake injector.Install the C pipe and filter can.Now fire it up and drive!

 

[sermis]

bunch of Chisels.US made Cold Chisels prefered but in a pinch Chinese will WORK

What needs chiseled?

What is the best Smurf snot to use?

 

[MoAllen]

What is a ptro and what is smurf snot.
Allen

 

[FreightTrain]

Pyro is the gauge that ALL diesels should have.Tells you how hot your exhaust gasses are.keeps you from melting down a turbo or melting pistons.The Chisels are for a last resort.There is a chance you will find atleast 1 nut that does NOT want to come off the turbo to manifold connection and you will have to split it.Offy never saw it done before and I used one of his chinese(ok,3) chisels to split 2 nuts.The US made ones hold an edge better.The Chinese ones are soft and the cutting edge is gone in about 3 good wacks.As for Smurf snot.Have a Calking gun full of Permatex Blue RTV.We use it on the race car and have to use a big hammer to get the headers off.The Big tubes I don't think is the same as the small mechanics size jobbers.Seams more smooth than the smaller ones.easier to smeer around and get a Good coating.Oh,don't wear cloths you plan to go to church in either.You will NEVER get the Smurf snot outta them.....let alone the diesel oil.

 

[dc3coyote]

Hey those Chinese chisels, used to be our finest Tanks, boats, and everything else that Uncle Sam says we are not allowed to have.
Now its time to go raid the Aircraft junkyard for new parts.

 

[sermis]

Does NAPA have gaskets or will RTV work just as good?

 

[ken]

Steve let me know if you can't find the gaskets. I have a few extra here.

 

[M543A2]

I do not know if NAPA has the gasket. We have re-installed used ones with no problem using high-temp RTV if the gasket is not damaged and the mating surfaces on the manifold and turbo are clean and flat. We find it works best to run a small bead of RTV around the gasket on both sides and let it set up before assembling. This way you get a very good seal without the typical oozed out material like you get with RTV that is not set up.
We loosen any stuck nuts with an acetylene torch, heating the nut to red heat, then letting it cool a bit and then removing it.
We have changed out many turbos experimenting with the power out put of the different ones. As was said, when you have done it several times, it takes about 30 minutes. Anyone with a good mechanical skill level can do it easily.
Regards Marti

 

[sermis]

Well I should have used the heat wrench. I snapped one stud off. Good thing there is some sticking out of the manifold so with heat it might come out with no problem.
I got the “C” remounted on the truck I am trading off. The guy getting the truck wanted a C and I don’t really like the whine so it is a win win for me except for the broken stud.