Turbo waste gate conversion to adjustable

[Mogman]

I was asked to make this its own thread.

I converted the stock waste gate controller to make it adjustable, was really easy, just grind off the crimp in the middle of the "can" until it gives up the "cover", then carefully grind the end of the rod (spring end) until the spring cap is free.
Thread the rod with a 10-24 die (I went about 2") and drill the spring cap to slide over the rod and presto manually adjustable boost control.
I did anneal the end of the rod to make it easier to thread.

I went from 5 PSI boost to 10 PSI, the EGTs came down about 75 degrees and the GEP turbo engine just seems to be much happier all around!

 

[badger_610889]

Hello @Mogman
As I was looking into the work to be done on my turbo, I realized that the WG doesn't have a pressure line in.

The MT confirms that:


So my candid question: Is that really how it works? Does the valve inside the turbo housing simply opens by being pushed by the inner pressure? But then why would there be an external actuator, a simple spring in the housing would do the same.

Your pic above clearly shows what appears to be a pressure line going to the WG. But it seems to come from the turbine side, so I'm confused.

I've worked on a few turbo engines (Ford and Lancia) and they all had a pressure line coming from the intake and working against a set of springs in the actuator to update the WG.

 

[Mogman]

It simply works on back pressure pushing on the waste gate, it is external because the same turbo is used on the van center mount 6.5L turbo diesel that has a vacuum source and ECM to control the waste gate, the HMMWV has no vacuum source or ECM.

 

[badger_610889]

It simply works on back pressure pushing on the waste gate, it is external because the same turbo is used on the van center mount 6.5L turbo diesel that has a vacuum source and ECM to control the waste gate, the HMMWV has no vacuum source or ECM.

Thank you sir!

So, another probably dumb question: what is the line that seems to be going from the turbine cast to the WG actuator on your photo above ?

 

[Mogman]

It is an EGT probe that is going under the crossover pipe on its way to the dash.

 

[simp5782]

On the 7.3 IDI turbos we would cut the stock wastegate rod and use a die to cut threads into it. Screw a turnbuckle onto it and then do the same the piece of rod we cut off and shorten it.

Basically made it an external adjustable.

 

[badger_610889]

Thanks guys. Now I think I get it

that being, it means that the boost control is made by adjusting the counter force on the waste gate at the exhaust, so it's an exhaust back pressure control more than a boost control right? I have a hard time believing that gives a linear response and the intake pressure must go through quite some fluctuation? Even though there's no throttle restricting the flow like with gasoline engines the load and rpm variations must make the exhaust pressure vary separately from the intake.

Are people changing this to have the actual boost pressure (therefore on the intake manifold) actuating the waste gate to shoot for a constant boost? I would go for a 9 PSI from what I've read on diesel engines and the specs of the GEP 6.5

Am I crazy if I attempt to do this?

Sorry if I'm annoying on this topic. I've had good experiences with turbocharging gasoline engines but that's my very first diesel...

 

[Mogman]

On the 7.3 IDI turbos we would cut the stock wastegate rod and use a die to cut threads into it. Screw a turnbuckle onto it and then do the same the piece of rod we cut off and shorten it.

Basically made it an external adjustable.

IMHO this solution is a little more graceful, does the exact same thing.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I like Mogmans better than anything else… simple and it cost me 10 bucks and I think it’s going to work out amazing! I did mine a little bit different

 

[Maxjeep1]

IMHO this solution is a little more graceful, does the exact same thing.

Can explain to me a little more about your EGT or Pyrometer? I have been looking and I know what I want but I don’t know what it’s called. I found them with stepper motor and I don’t know what that is. I want something like a thermometer you stick it in and read it. No electricity needed. I don’t know if they make such a thing. Don’t even get me started on voltage… even if I don’t get the gauge right now I would like to install the probe while it’s all over my garage. Lol

 

[Mogman]

My pyrometer is DC powered, sorry I cannot help you with a non powered version, the meter movement would have to be so sensitive I would think it would be expensive and rather fragile.
All the ones I use have stepper motors.

 

[Maxjeep1]

My pyrometer is DC powered, sorry I cannot help you with a non powered version, the meter movement would have to be so sensitive I would think it would be expensive and rather fragile.
All the ones I use have stepper motors.

Ok I feel a little better about the stepper. What does it take to wire it up with our 24 volt system? I’m terrible at electrical stuff. I don’t care if the light works. I cant find YouTube videos for install on Humvee. Thanks for your help. I did watch a YouTube video on a 6.5 all out climbing a grade and his EGT looked like a tachometer.

 

[Mogman]

If you have a 200A alt and a 4 speed you have a 12V system, you can run a 24V relay (with the contacts wired to 12V) as you undoubtedly will find need for switched 12V for something else along the way, or if you are only going to power the gauge you can tap off of the switched 12V for the trans, through a 1A fused lead of course.
EDIT
Or you can run a converter, the Detroit started out with a 60A so I used a converter for the 12V stuff, works so well I never changed it when I went to the 200A alt. except for when I installed the 6 speed, it runs off of the 12V tap just like the 4 speeds do.

 

[Maxjeep1]

If you have a 200A alt and a 4 speed you have a 12V system, you can run a 24V relay (with the contacts wired to 12V) as you undoubtedly will find need for switched 12V for something else along the way, or if you are only going to power the gauge you can tap off of the switched 12V for the trans, through a 1A fused lead of course.
EDIT
Or you can run a converter, the Detroit started out with a 60A so I used a converter for the 12V stuff, works so well I never changed it when I went to the 200A alt. except for when I installed the 6 speed, it runs off of the 12V tap just like the 4 speeds do.

So you are saying that I’m not capable of doing it on my own…. Hahahaha damit Mogman speak English…. I respect guys that can do wiring right. I have to get better at this stuff. I’m a really good parts changer and I make an excellent cup of coffee!

 

[badger_610889]

If you need a reliable DC-DC stepper to get 12V reliable I can recommend a couple turn key boxes that you can't wire wrong. But as Mogman explained you must have 12V 'in the neighborhood'

 

[badger_610889]

I used this on my Willys before converting it to 12V, for instance. That would be totally overkill for your app but a good way to safely create a 12V bus with a couple breakers if you are not comfortable with wiring a 12V line in your truck.

 

[Dave2018]

I was asked to make this its own thread.

I converted the stock waste gate controller to make it adjustable, was really easy, just grind off the crimp in the middle of the "can" until it gives up the "cover", then carefully grind the end of the rod (spring end) until the spring cap is free.
Thread the rod with a 10-24 die (I went about 2") and drill the spring cap to slide over the rod and presto manually adjustable boost control.
I did anneal the end of the rod to make it easier to thread.
View attachment 867978
I went from 5 PSI boost to 10 PSI, the EGTs came down about 75 degrees and the GEP turbo engine just seems to be much happier all around!

Good pic, Like the adjustable part. Ran a lot of big ship diesels n turbos but not much for autos. Did you hook up a pressure gage somewhere to read your pressure. Thx, Dave

 

[Mogman]

Good pic, Like the adjustable part. Ran a lot of big ship diesels n turbos but not much for autos. Did you hook up a pressure gage somewhere to read your pressure. Thx, Dave

Yes I drilled and tapped a hole in both sides of the cross over, ended up using the rear one.

 

[Dave2018]

Yes I drilled and tapped a hole in both sides of the cross over, ended up using the rear one.

Thanks for the help.
Ready to start venturing out with my new truck.

 

[Dave2018]

I was asked to make this its own thread.

I converted the stock waste gate controller to make it adjustable, was really easy, just grind off the crimp in the middle of the "can" until it gives up the "cover", then carefully grind the end of the rod (spring end) until the spring cap is free.
Thread the rod with a 10-24 die (I went about 2") and drill the spring cap to slide over the rod and presto manually adjustable boost control.
I did anneal the end of the rod to make it easier to thread.
View attachment 867978
I went from 5 PSI boost to 10 PSI, the EGTs came down about 75 degrees and the GEP turbo engine just seems to be much happier all around!

Mogman
I completed the adjustable conversion like yours. On my approx 1k mile 1152. It's better for opening but still opens some during regular flat driving at low speeds.
Have slowly been tightening it up. Now it's close to your pic. Question is do these wastegates normally open and close at lower speeds on flat surfaces.
Going to tighten up another 2 or 3 flats today.
Thx
Dave