Turn Signal Control Unit - Options

[Warhammer1]

Hi everyone, well my turn signal and hazard functionality on my '94 M998A1 went south:

Left turn signal, green light on the unit blinked but faded until it didn't light up at all. The left front bulb blinked dimly but then faded out until it no longer lit up. Left rear never lit.

Right turn signal, only the right front bulb flashed and the rear never lit.

Hazard setting, none of the lights flashed.

I unscrewed the 4 housing screws and cleaned/lightly sanded the contacts inside the unit and cleaned my grounds in all the light buckets, plus verified good bulbs. I then used my multimeter to test open/short conditions on the pinouts using the guide below - of course all the tests failed. When I re-assembled the unit, the green light indicator on the turn signal assembly never lit up and now none of my flashers lit up - I have a feeling I screwed up the tension on the copper contacts when broke the factory seal.

https://www.youtube.com/redirect?ev...tmilitaryequipment.com/content/amgtm998a1.pdf

This is a pic of my current turn signal switch and a new replacement is just over $300:


My question is can I use a unit like this one below? It's around $100 which makes this a more appealing replacement:


I scoured our Steel Soldiers resource for a similar discussion and nothing showed up on the interwebs either, so I'm confident I didn't post a dupe (at least i hope not). Thanks in advance for whatever good advice you can spare...

 

[M.Ellis]

Hi everyone, well my turn signal and hazard functionality on my '94 M998A1 went south:

Left turn signal, green light on the unit blinked but faded until it didn't light up at all. The left front bulb blinked dimly but then faded out until it no longer lit up. Left rear never lit.

Right turn signal, only the right front bulb flashed and the rear never lit.

Hazard setting, none of the lights flashed.

I unscrewed the 4 housing screws and cleaned/lightly sanded the contacts inside the unit and cleaned my grounds in all the light buckets, plus verified good bulbs. I then used my multimeter to test open/short conditions on the pinouts using the guide below - of course all the tests failed. When I re-assembled the unit, the green light indicator on the turn signal assembly never lit up and now none of my flashers lit up - I have a feeling I screwed up the tension on the copper contacts when broke the factory seal.

https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbEIzVXJHZ3UtdWNYdXUxQjBkQ0JaWmdHSGluQXxBQ3Jtc0ttUjlLa2ZEa2lPbGoyTm1TME9HUEhPUFFTVkx2amgzTVRKbGdkZTIycGdkZWpwbGNOT0gybTlaME1qci1rb1JUa3ZSUi1BYUJ5M1BnRGVqbkUxLTQ4U01vRENXeENQVW5KZm84b2stQ2IxSnNheXVQNA&q=https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/content/amgtm998a1.pdf

This is a pic of my current turn signal switch and a new replacement is just over $300:
View attachment 845294

My question is can I use a unit like this one below? It's around $100 which makes this a more appealing replacement:
View attachment 845295

I scoured our Steel Soldiers resource for a similar discussion and nothing showed up on the interwebs either, so I'm confident I didn't post a dupe (at least i hope not). Thanks in advance for whatever good advice you can spare...

I believe the top one the you have is self canceling the bottom one is not. Hence the price difference

 

[OLDBEAR1234]

Hi everyone, well my turn signal and hazard functionality on my '94 M998A1 went south:

Left turn signal, green light on the unit blinked but faded until it didn't light up at all. The left front bulb blinked dimly but then faded out until it no longer lit up. Left rear never lit.

Right turn signal, only the right front bulb flashed and the rear never lit.

Hazard setting, none of the lights flashed.

I unscrewed the 4 housing screws and cleaned/lightly sanded the contacts inside the unit and cleaned my grounds in all the light buckets, plus verified good bulbs. I then used my multimeter to test open/short conditions on the pinouts using the guide below - of course all the tests failed. When I re-assembled the unit, the green light indicator on the turn signal assembly never lit up and now none of my flashers lit up - I have a feeling I screwed up the tension on the copper contacts when broke the factory seal.

https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbEIzVXJHZ3UtdWNYdXUxQjBkQ0JaWmdHSGluQXxBQ3Jtc0ttUjlLa2ZEa2lPbGoyTm1TME9HUEhPUFFTVkx2amgzTVRKbGdkZTIycGdkZWpwbGNOT0gybTlaME1qci1rb1JUa3ZSUi1BYUJ5M1BnRGVqbkUxLTQ4U01vRENXeENQVW5KZm84b2stQ2IxSnNheXVQNA&q=https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/content/amgtm998a1.pdf

This is a pic of my current turn signal switch and a new replacement is just over $300:
View attachment 845294

My question is can I use a unit like this one below? It's around $100 which makes this a more appealing replacement:
View attachment 845295

I scoured our Steel Soldiers resource for a similar discussion and nothing showed up on the interwebs either, so I'm confident I didn't post a dupe (at least i hope not). Thanks in advance for whatever good advice you can spare...

I am in the same boat. I have been looking to save a few hundred dollars also. I don't want chinese or taiwanese products. Good luck.

 

[Ajax MD]

Gents,

I just went through this exercise. The short answer is: Yes, the less expensive unit will work just fine with your trucks. You just won't have the self-canceling ability. Most of us didn't have it anyway because the little pegs that trip the armature break off.

The non-canceling unit is considerably less than $100. I got mine for $60 at Big Mike's Motorpool. Erik's Military Surplus also has them for $56.

MILITARY VEHICLE TURN SIGNAL CONTROL SWITCH -11613632-1

TURN SIGNAL CONTROL SWITCH w/ COLUMN CLAMP FOR MILITARY TACTICAL VEHICLES. THIS IS A VERY NICE ALUMINUM UNIT. # 11613632-1 WE ALSO HAVE 24V FLASHERS IN OUR STORE. LOOK FOR # 11613631

www.bigmikesmotorpool.com

https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/tusiswm3m8et.html See the notes about LED signal compatibility.

 

[mgFray]

How do the auto canceling turn signal switches connect?

On my M998, I have the cheaper one that doesn't auto cancel and I don't see any holes or anything for the steering wheel shaft to move an actuator or anything.

 

[OLDBEAR1234]

How do the auto canceling turn signal switches connect?

On my M998, I have the cheaper one that doesn't auto cancel and I don't see any holes or anything for the steering wheel shaft to move an actuator or anything.

The auto cancelling unit has a ring that mounts to the steering wheel which contacts the lever and returns it to neutral.

 

[country]

They are interchangeable

Non Self Canceling Option $47:



ALL-5034 | Turn Signal Handle - Directional Control Switch
Turn Signal Handle - Switch for M151, HMMWV, M35, M54, M809, M939, and Common Application
NSN #: 6220-00-808-6072
Part #: 12447083, 11613632-1, 11613632-3
Price: $47.00

 

[Milcommoguy]

No serial number on switch... NO bueno, CAMO

 

[OLDBEAR1234]

No serial number on switch... NO bueno, CAMO

China?

 

[Warhammer1]

I believe the top one the you have is self canceling the bottom one is not. Hence the price difference

Thank you M.Ellis I appreciate it! At this point if I can save a few hundred clams I'll learn how to operate non-cancelling.

 

[Warhammer1]

I am in the same boat. I have been looking to save a few hundred dollars also. I don't want chinese or taiwanese products. Good luck.

OldBear1234, I don't either, I've seen posts on our boards that advise not to do that too. Let me know what you end up doing, I'll do the same...

 

[Milcommoguy]

China?

If they want to go after them.

Just a boat ride away, CAMO

 

[Warhammer1]

Gents,

I just went through this exercise. The short answer is: Yes, the less expensive unit will work just fine with your trucks. You just won't have the self-canceling ability. Most of us didn't have it anyway because the little pegs that trip the armature break off.

The non-canceling unit is considerably less than $100. I got mine for $60 at Big Mike's Motorpool. Erik's Military Surplus also has them for $56.

MILITARY VEHICLE TURN SIGNAL CONTROL SWITCH -11613632-1

TURN SIGNAL CONTROL SWITCH w/ COLUMN CLAMP FOR MILITARY TACTICAL VEHICLES. THIS IS A VERY NICE ALUMINUM UNIT. # 11613632-1 WE ALSO HAVE 24V FLASHERS IN OUR STORE. LOOK FOR # 11613631

www.bigmikesmotorpool.com

https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/tusiswm3m8et.html See the notes about LED signal compatibility.

Ajax MD thank you for the great news! I appreciate you sharing your experience, I'll check Big Mike's and Erik's MilSurp tonight. I would really like to move forward with my safety inspection and registration process. Have a good one

 

[Warhammer1]

They are interchangeable

Non Self Canceling Option $47:



ALL-5034 | Turn Signal Handle - Directional Control Switch
Turn Signal Handle - Switch for M151, HMMWV, M35, M54, M809, M939, and Common Application
NSN #: 6220-00-808-6072
Part #: 12447083, 11613632-1, 11613632-3
Price: $47.00

country, thank you for your helpful reply. I have to check your site out. I don't know why this unit is so much cheaper than the stock one that came on my Humvee but you know what there are some things in life I'm not going to question....

 

[Warhammer1]

China?

I was thinking the same thing, country's Eastern Surplus site has the manufacturer in Aurora IL and it looks like the SN and part# are stamped on it, so maybe it's legit OK.

 

[Milcommoguy]

country, thank you for your helpful reply. I have to check your site out. I don't know why this unit is so much cheaper than the stock one that came on my Humvee but you know what there are some things in life I'm not going to question....

I took that "Boat Ride" and learned a lesson 4 month later. If you look at ALL the pictures you will see some with no serial numbers and some with serial numbers. Huh. Goes for a lot of electrical parts. You will have it figures out with the funky cardboard box, printing, and no name items, no part number, no serial number, NO nothing and the hardware shines like diamonds.

Looks like a Quicci... You bought a Huicci, CAMO

YES, They work..... Till your money falls thru the holes. LOL

 

[Warhammer1]

I took that "Boat Ride" and learned a lesson 4 month later. If you look at ALL the pictures you will see some with no serial numbers and some with serial numbers. Huh. Goes for a lot of electrical parts. You will have it figures out with the funky cardboard box, printing, and no name items, no part number, no serial number, NO nothing and the hardware shines like diamonds.

Looks like a Quicci... You bought a Huicci, CAMO

YES, They work..... Till your money falls thru the holes. LOL

I knew this was too good to be true, I was hoping for WYSIWYG.... CAMO brings me back to reality.

 

[Warhammer1]

Ajax MD thank you for the great news! I appreciate you sharing your experience, I'll check Big Mike's and Erik's MilSurp tonight. I would really like to move forward with my safety inspection and registration process. Have a good one

Ajax MD, I just purchased one from Big Mike's, thanks again for sharing your personal experience.

 

[Warhammer1]

Hi everyone, well my turn signal and hazard functionality on my '94 M998A1 went south:

Left turn signal, green light on the unit blinked but faded until it didn't light up at all. The left front bulb blinked dimly but then faded out until it no longer lit up. Left rear never lit.

Right turn signal, only the right front bulb flashed and the rear never lit.

Hazard setting, none of the lights flashed.

I unscrewed the 4 housing screws and cleaned/lightly sanded the contacts inside the unit and cleaned my grounds in all the light buckets, plus verified good bulbs. I then used my multimeter to test open/short conditions on the pinouts using the guide below - of course all the tests failed. When I re-assembled the unit, the green light indicator on the turn signal assembly never lit up and now none of my flashers lit up - I have a feeling I screwed up the tension on the copper contacts when broke the factory seal.

https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbEIzVXJHZ3UtdWNYdXUxQjBkQ0JaWmdHSGluQXxBQ3Jtc0ttUjlLa2ZEa2lPbGoyTm1TME9HUEhPUFFTVkx2amgzTVRKbGdkZTIycGdkZWpwbGNOT0gybTlaME1qci1rb1JUa3ZSUi1BYUJ5M1BnRGVqbkUxLTQ4U01vRENXeENQVW5KZm84b2stQ2IxSnNheXVQNA&q=https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/content/amgtm998a1.pdf

This is a pic of my current turn signal switch and a new replacement is just over $300:
View attachment 845294

My question is can I use a unit like this one below? It's around $100 which makes this a more appealing replacement:
View attachment 845295

I scoured our Steel Soldiers resource for a similar discussion and nothing showed up on the interwebs either, so I'm confident I didn't post a dupe (at least i hope not). Thanks in advance for whatever good advice you can spare...

Everyone,

I just wanted to close the loop as a courtesy to everyone's helpful advice. I ordered the cheaper turn signal from Big Mike's and they got it to me in 3-days which was great, but I intentionally sat on it because I wasn't ready to continue the half-day trace to find the root-cause (I just assumed the gremlin would be somewhere OTHER THAN the turn signal unit). Took a deep breath and did the easy 5-minute swap and God had mercy on me - everything worked like a charm!! The unit had the serial and part number on the face so I'm thinking it's a legit part, plus they sent me the hose clamp as advertised in the pic - I didn't know why but now I do. The original bracket is welded onto the steering column and of course it was too narrow to accommodate the new unit.

Because of the mounting offset and the slightly longer control arm on the new unit, left hand turns bump my leg but it's a minor inconvenience to me. I got the safety inspection done yesterday for only $7, apparently they don't check the expensive emissions test because it's a diesel. Inspection was 5minute signal, headlight, brake light, high beam, windshield wiper rubber check and done, didn't even drive it around. Funny detail - of course I drove up door-less and the guy immediately said I needed car doors to pass the test.

I can't thank you gents enough for the helpful advice, now onto the DMV to change titling over.

 

[OLDBEAR1234]

Everyone,

I just wanted to close the loop as a courtesy to everyone's helpful advice. I ordered the cheaper turn signal from Big Mike's and they got it to me in 3-days which was great, but I intentionally sat on it because I wasn't ready to continue the half-day trace to find the root-cause (I just assumed the gremlin would be somewhere OTHER THAN the turn signal unit). Took a deep breath and did the easy 5-minute swap and God had mercy on me - everything worked like a charm!! The unit had the serial and part number on the face so I'm thinking it's a legit part, plus they sent me the hose clamp as advertised in the pic - I didn't know why but now I do. The original bracket is welded onto the steering column and of course it was too narrow to accommodate the new unit.

Because of the mounting offset and the slightly longer control arm on the new unit, left hand turns bump my leg but it's a minor inconvenience to me. I got the safety inspection done yesterday for only $7, apparently they don't check the expensive emissions test because it's a diesel. Inspection was 5minute signal, headlight, brake light, high beam, windshield wiper rubber check and done, didn't even drive it around. Funny detail - of course I drove up door-less and the guy immediately said I needed car doors to pass the test.

I can't thank you gents enough for the helpful advice, now onto the DMV to change titling over.

Good luck with the title, keep us informed.