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U-joint parts hunting

cranetruck

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Got a couple of questions about rebuilding one of the 8x8 drive shafts.

a) Can I buy just the bearing cups for the "cross" or do I have to get a whole new unit?

b) Are the freeze plugs standard for the Spicer drive shafts, the one used here is 2.00 inches in dia?

c) Know a good source for these parts?

Thanks,
 

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eddiec

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there a plenty of big truck shops here, if you can get me the dimensions, i could look them up this week and get you prices for the ujoint.
 

devilman96

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Bjorn,

Shoot me the mil and NSN I prolly have those avaliable to me...

No you cant just change the caps, its like installing a new wheel bearing on the old cone...
 

WillWagner

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There is also a "ruler" if you will, for u-joint sizing. I didn't send your stuff today....sorry....I think I have a bonus one in my box at work, or, if I don't, i'll photo copy it. It is a Spicer thing, and it tells you what series the joint is.
 

doghead

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Check in your yellow pages for Fleet Pride. They are a national company that deals in commercial truck drive line parts. My local shop is excellent! I have found that if i show up with a box of doughnuts in the morning, that I can leave there with whatever odd little parts I needed.(clips,caps,used spline sections ect...) Your mileage may vary.
Here is their locator http://www.atptruck.com/fp_p/branch.html
 

cranetruck

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Thanks fellows, it was a given that I'd learn something. The TM does state to discard the cross and bearing caps. :)

The numbers from the TM:
U-joint repair kit: 2520-00-045-7425 ("00" added since the book is prior to '76)
Bearing and cross: 11602400 (19207)

There are non-readable numbers on the cross plus "Spicer"
What dimensions are needed specifically?
 

doghead

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To get a replacement U-joint, you need to know the cap diameter and how it is retained(ie. clips at the top or bottom of cap or no clips at all, also if the clip goes on the cap or in the yoke). You will also need to know the overall length of the U-joint assembled(check it both ways, sometimes they are not the same both ways).
Also, if you go to Fleet Pride they will have the replacement "freeze plug" that you need(since they have the parts onhand to make driveshafts)
They may be able to look it up by the numbers you have from the tech manual.

The clip in the center of it is an oddity, does it have one on both sides in the center?
 

devilman96

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You need the "cross length" of the joint WITH OUT the caps installed and the cap OD...

2520-00-045-7425 (PN 5703335) ... I don't have this available but if you get the measurements I can get you a Napa cross for it. The question then becomes do you want a cheap'o import PN or a US made joint number?
 

CGarbee

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Download the Spicer catalog from thier website and go looking for a part number... They have the entire product line listed by dimension and type...
Once you have the number, a new u-joint is just a phone call away from any shop that handles Spicer parts (or cross references to whatever they carry).

Or, you could just take it in hand to your local heavy truck shop and have them look it up and grab one for you (and since I know that your location may be lacking in such shops, I'll offer that I have four good ones in site of my office including Stone Heavy Duty (now Fleetpride...) and can run over and bug them if you need assistance.
 

cranetruck

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Thanks again, I'll get the dimensions.

Question: Will I suffer eternally in mechanic's he** if I installed the original bearing caps, they are still good?
 

CGarbee

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For the price of a new u-joint, I'd go with the replacement even if the old one came apart nice and easy and everything looked good...
However, especially if this shaft can be disengaged so that it is not rotating all the time, if everything looked great, you could reasemble the unit and keep on rolling... But it's very likely that something is worn that will cause problems down the road...
 
We have a drive line service out here by me. I take them the drive shaft and they put new u-joints in and then balance the whole thing on a high speed lathe type device. It's great for the first time since they may be bent and/or out of balance. It's not too terribly expensive either. From then on I just replace U-joints as needed.
 

rdixiemiller

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Bjorn
If you just removed the U-Joint to get the driveshaft apart, and didn't hurt anything, you can re-install it. I doubt you are going to put 30,000 miles on the truck anytime soon.
The expansion plug in the driveshaft can be bought at any auto parts store. Those are called "Flat core plugs". They have a slight convex shape to them. Pop them into the bore, curved side up. Smack curved surface smartly with ball pein hammer to expand said plug. You are done.
Did the shaft come apart?
 

Jones

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Bjorn, The caps and crosses are final ground together, that's why you don't want to play mix and match. Another thing to consider is that the needles don't roll all the way through a rotation, more like just rock back and forth as the u-joint works so there's an odd wear process in play there. The old worn out ones, at their worst, will show the wear as ripples in the cross's end surfaces, or a frosted look to the bearing surface when they've just started to wear. Once they've broken through the hard surfacing they wear pretty fast and your truck isn't something cheap OR easy to replace should a broken driveline try to pole-vault you across several freeway lanes. If ever in the SLIGHTEST doubt, treat yourself to new u-joints and the peace of mind that goes with them.
 

cranetruck

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I'll get a new one, this will just be for a test drive around the property, off road and dirt roads and 5-10 mph max.

There is no measurable out-of-round on the parts (plus or minus .001 inch with my caliper) and one needle will roll easily across a slightly inclined plate of glass. The truck has about 3,000 miles on the odo.

Thanks again for all your advise. learned something and hopfulle others did too.
 
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