• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

U-joint question

llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
Hello everyone! I have a quick question about some of the U-joints in my 85 M1008. I was looking today and noticed that the two joints at the rear of the front drive shaft as well as the ones on the end of the half shafts in the front end are different that any I have ever had to change before, they don't have the "C" clip holding them in. I cant seem to see an internal clip either, so how do you remove them? I haven't even taken the front shaft out yet so I couldn't get a super close look. I did notice what looks to be a small plastic pin on the outside edge of the yoke but other than that, Im unsure as to how to remove them and like I said, the ones on the front half shafts look to be the same. I have a press, so if thats all it takes its no big deal, just kinda want to know what I am getting into before I get started.

Thanks much!
Greg
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
I've not done it, but my understanding is that the joints from the factory have a plastic injected into them to take the place of the metal clip. You have to beat them out, or heat them until the plastic melts. I think this is mentioned in the TMs.
 

llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
Thanks much cpf240! I checked the TMs and all I have been able to find is a ref to the U-joints in the 289-20 manual under PMCS simply saying they are unserviceable. do you know where in the TMs I can find the replacement procedure? If its as you say, removal sounds pretty straight forward, but how is the replacement held in place?

Thanks,
Grreg
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
You clean the plastic out of the groove and use clips.

Heat is my preference.

Replacement should be in the -20 TM or 30 TM(levels).
 

llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
Doghead, thanks for your reply. I have looked through both -20 TMs and all 3 -34 manuals and other than mentioned above, found nothing. When I say looked through, I didnt go page by page, but used the pdf search function for u-joint. You mention -30 manuals, I have DLed all of the ones we have here and have no -30s, just the -34s, was that a typo or is there something I am missing?

Thanks again,
Greg
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
I used -30 as a "generic" term.

Some series of Tms end in 30 or they end in 34, either is the same "level" of info.

Think like this, -10, the book in the glove compartment of your car.
-20(or 24), the Chiltons manual that you use to repair things at home.
-30(or 34), the info the Dealer uses at the dealership to fix things you can't do at home.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Propeller shaft repair(u joint replacement) is in the -20TM. 6-5. REAR PROPELLER SHAFT REPAIR.

Open the TM, and look through the table of contents at the front of the book(to find what you need).
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
1,814
113
Location
GA Mountains
The military doesn't always use conventional terms such as ujoint. In this case it's referred to as a universal joint. Both items are covered in chapter 6 of TM 9-2320-289-34.
 
Last edited:

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Heat them up to melt the plastic. Be careful as the hot plastic tends to always spooge out towards your face. A hammer is your best friend for freeing up stubborn joints. My opinion, spend the extra dough on genuine Spicer joints.
 
Top