UL listing for mep 803a or 831a?

[NATCAD]

Does anyone know if there has ever been a UL listing or any safety testing done that would satisfy a utility / insurer of a property that is powered by said generator?

(mep 803a or 831a)

 

[Farmitall]

Does anyone know if there has ever been a UL listing or any safety testing done that would satisfy a utility / insurer of a property that is powered by said generator?

(mep 803a or 831a)

I've never heard of a UL listing for either set and doubt there is one. The federal government usually exempts themselves from such things.

I'd be looking into another insurance company if yours is really getting that picky. As long as the connections and devices used to hook it up meet code requirements I can't see where they have a problem.

 

[DieselAddict]

That is a can of worms. You aren't going to find that any military generators with those approvals.

If you require that rating I strongly recommend buying a generator that has it out of the box.

 

[NATCAD]

Hi everybody, had inspection done.

A couple things were mentioned as needed for conformity the gfci box (has no certification on it (ul, etc) and is required to have an inline fuse.

A few other small things, load box (way to lock it so loads are not exposed)

Was suggested that I get an ordinary household gfci receptacle (15a) and a 15 amp 120v fuse.

What do you guys think of that?

 

[Light in the Dark]

How is your machine hooked up now?

 

[Light in the Dark]

I would be shopping for a new insurance company.

So it sounds like you might be able to satisfy their wants, by installing an outdoor installation approved safety switch right on the side of the machine, where the wires exit now (like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-A...IPHorizontal2_rr-_-206184013-_-202978654-_-N_). Bolt it right over the existing wire exit point, to alleviate their concerns.

From there, you could use one of the side knockout holes to run to a locking 50A power inlet box (so you can use a standard generator cord). Like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-50-Amp-Power-Inlet-Box-PB50/202216493

I think you are being jerked around though. This is all time and money that isn't needed to be spent, to make the machine any safer. I am not an electrician, don't construe anything above as solid, legal advice which meets your local codes.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Unless this generator is in/under a building or enclosure, that said insurer is covering the replacement cost of... why do they care? If you are simply hooking up to a connector on a structure, with an appropriate cable, what goes to that receptacle should be immaterial to their coverage. Are you trying to have the MEP covered under your insurance policy (and maybe where this all started)?

 

[Daybreak]

Hi everybody, had inspection done.

A couple things were mentioned as needed for conformity the gfci box (has no certification on it (ul, etc) and is required to have an inline fuse.

A few other small things, load box (way to lock it so loads are not exposed)

Was suggested that I get an ordinary household gfci receptacle (15a) and a 15 amp 120v fuse.

What do you guys think of that?

Howdy,
The receptacle already has a inline fuse. That receptacle already has a interrupter also.

a 80lb bag of cement leaning on the front panel.

 

[NATCAD]

Howdy,
The receptacle already has a inline fuse. That receptacle already has a interrupter also.

a 80lb bag of cement leaning on the front panel.

I like the cement idea

Where is the in line fuse that protects the gfci box ? It is not on the wiring diagram and I cannot locate it physically.

That would solve adding a fuse !


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[NATCAD]

Howdy,
The receptacle already has a inline fuse. That receptacle already has a interrupter also.

a 80lb bag of cement leaning on the front panel.

Also do you happen to know if there is an inline fuse on the 803a gfci box ?


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[Daybreak]

Also do you happen to know if there is an inline fuse on the 803a gfci box ?

Howdy,

The convenience receptacle is of course GFCI, with a 10 amp resettable fuse.

 

[rhurey]

A few other small things, load box (way to lock it so loads are not exposed)

$7 + lock & screws. I think worth it if you're going to have it running unattended.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00120JY1S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[NATCAD]

Howdy,

The convenience receptacle is of course GFCI, with a 10 amp resettable fuse.

View attachment 726631 View attachment 726632

I think the inspector thought the gfci just measured disparity in current in and current out and neglected to see that there is also a resettable fuse for overload protection.

The inspector wanted a fuse between gfci and generator for current protection and because the old version of the gfci box has no UL listing (the new version does but are $50)

Either way because there was no UL listing on the gfci outlet he wanted a separate fuse


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[Guyfang]

The very first GFI's on the sets had an inline fuse. And, if I remember right, were UL listed. But that was a looooooong time ago.

 

[NATCAD]

The very first GFI's on the sets had an inline fuse. And, if I remember right, were UL listed. But that was a looooooong time ago.

So my choices right now are :

120v 15 amp fuse that is UL listed
+ add a new gfci receptacle ($5 plus $1

Or

Replace gfci box with an updated UL listed one for $56 plus run new 12awg wire (new ones are 20 amp)

What do you guys think ?

Problem is the current gfci isn’t UL listed


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[dav5]

I would go 20 amp. Ten amps are just about useless for things like power tools.