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Ultimate well nut repair

R

rcamacho

Well-known member
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858
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Chrispyny said:
I did my pick up with the tank mounted in the genset. I hogged out the aluminum at the nipple with a dremel. Didnt need to take it apart at all.
Wish i knew you were thinking of doing it the hard way, we could have given you tips for an easier job.
Click to expand...
I should take the time to relieve the sheet metal before re-installation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
D

dav5

Active member
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Location
Mono, Ontario
I wasn't looking for "cheap" when I called the company. I just didn't want to get hosed on the shipping. I asked for a shipping quote for 3 fittings and was quoted 3 times the shipping for one fitting. I said thanks but no thanks.
 
D

Dave926

New member
15
3
3
Location
Ft Myers Florida
I just used the washer that came with it. It looked like an aluminum washer with a copper plating on it. I put it in a vise and used a step bit to get the hole big enough for the well nut. I was Leary’s of galvanized since we think that the coating is coming off when exposed to the fuel.

You can get the filler neck off without taking the top of the sheet metal housing off. I used two different sizes of hemostats to hold the nut from the back.
 
D

Dave926

New member
15
3
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Location
Ft Myers Florida
And the bent coat hanger shaped like an L worked great getting the new well nut into the drain hole. It had a 14mm slot in the top to hold it in place while you tightened it.

I thought I was going to have to wrestle a vice grip in the tank from the filler hole.
 
H

hyderind

New member
19
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1
Location
manitowoc, wi
boatman69 said:
802a. I couldn't bring myself to fix junk with junk, not on my machine. Maybe a grass cutter.Nitrile or not those things are doomed. This even comes with a viton o-ring. Here is the permanent fix. $10.99 + S/H
You do need to remove the fuel filler so you can get your arm in the tank. I was going to fish it in with a small piece of cable but I decided I wanted the tank spic and span. Fishing it through would be tough but on a bet I could pull it off.
Here is what you need.
http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/10047/arlington-10897
And a 3/4 inch washer , perfect fit no modifications required.
View attachment 696717
It is a tight fit on the inside radius of the tank but it proved to be no problem. Enjoy
Click to expand...
Great Post . Ordered the parts today.

Newbie questions.

Why did you add a washer between the tank and the nut?

What torque did you tighten nut to?

Do I need Blue lock tight on the nut?

Is that teflon tape I see on the threads?

Thanks!

Chris
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

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The shipping IS outrageous on what the part is, but has anyone actually priced out shipping costs on items these days? If there was interest in a group buy, maybe we can drum up something better.
 
H

hyderind

New member
19
1
1
Location
manitowoc, wi
Light in the Dark said:
The shipping IS outrageous on what the part is, but has anyone actually priced out shipping costs on items these days? If there was interest in a group buy, maybe we can drum up something better.
Click to expand...
Ordered two today for $11.44 shipping from usplastic.com of the 1/4" Brass Bulkhead Fitting (Includes Viton O-Ring). Aside from free, that is about as cheap as I've seen.
 
S

SamE0717

New member
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Location
NC
Light in the Dark said:
The shipping IS outrageous on what the part is, but has anyone actually priced out shipping costs on items these days? If there was interest in a group buy, maybe we can drum up something better.
Click to expand...
I ordered from Plastic-Mart last week, $18 shipping for 8 after live chatting with customer service. Not the all time cheapest shipping but no complaints for me at $18 when ordering 8 Brass Bulkhead Fittings.
 
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Hard Head

Hard Head

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Greenville SC
SamE0717 said:
I ordered from Plastic-Mart last week, $18 shipping for 8 after living chatting with customer service. Not the all time cheapest shipping but no complaints for me at $18 when ordering 8 well nuts.
Click to expand...
I get great service from these folks! I purchased 50 from them again this year. Installed 10 bulkheads Monday on 5 80X's. I made up a few pull wires using concrete reinforcement tie wire that I use. I also add a stainless oil drain pipe to hose barb adapter while I am at it. I will never use a well nut again! I have a couple bags of well nuts left over. Not sure what I will do with them.
 
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S

SamE0717

New member
6
1
3
Location
NC
Hard Head said:
I get great service from these folks! I purchased 50 from them again this year. Installed 10 bulkheads Monday on 5 80X's. I made up a few pull wires using concrete reinforcement tie wire that I use. I also add a stainless oil drain pipe to hose barb adapter while I am at it. I will never use a well nut again! I have a couple bags of well nuts left over. Not sure what I will do with them.
Click to expand...
I agree their customer service was great! I'd love an explanation on your install process, sounds like you have lots of practice!!
 
Hard Head

Hard Head

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
540
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Location
Greenville SC
I install bulkheads every day in rain barrels for my wife's store. We buy them by the hundreds. Same technique. Concrete wire with a loop on the bottom to prevent the bulkhead from coming off the wire. Use Permatex 80631 thread sealant with PTFE on your fuel tank bulkheads since it is fuel resistant. I quit using Teflon tape since little pieces can break off and make their way to an injector.
 
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M

Mallard67

New member
1
6
3
Location
Connecticut
Hey All, I just wanted to say a big thanks to all on this site/thread on this important fix. I ended up having to replace my rotted well nuts with the bulkhead fittings just as specified here with no leaks afterward... what a huge relief! I also replaced the old rusted fuel level sender at the same time which gave me access to the bottom fitting with relative ease. I don’t think anyone mentioned it here, but with the fuel level sender out, you can actually take out the fuel drain hose, thread the an fitting and bulkhead to the hose with sealant, and then pass the pre-assembled hose/fitting down into the tank via the fuel level sender hole and back out the drain hole on the bottom with the bulkhead fitting already attached to it. You can then just pull on the hose from the inside of the set to snug up the bulkhead fitting on the inside of the tank. Made it insanely easy and I can’t see doing it any other way. I used a KUS USA 5.5” sender, 33-240 ohms with same bolt pattern and good for 24V. Thanks again to everyone with their input on this topic!
 

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