steelypip
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I use cribbing (2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 scraps) under the cars too! A ton on your ribcage will kill you just as well as ten will.
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Unless you got a set ... you'd probably want to have line wrenches to help out with the fittings.What would I need to, for example, replace a wheel cylinder?
i would have to disagre with this one. i have drove a few trucks. Turbo and NON-Turbo, and i must say the non- has more power.Other than that I don't have a recommendation on turbo vs non turbo. The non turbo will more than likely has less power and will smoke a bit more.
If its a true Marines truck it should have possi lock Diffs.
There's NO WAY that a non-turbo engine has more power than the same engine with a turbo unless something is wrong with the turbo'd engine. A turbo is an upgrade in power. That's why they add turbo's, to get more power out of the same block. It crams more air into the cylinder, and should be more efficient as well.i would have to disagre with this one. i have drove a few trucks. Turbo and NON-Turbo, and i must say the non- has more power.
You can be like me and only need a Shade Tree to work under. No air compressor, No Welder, No Cutting torch.One thing I am wondering about is how 'heavy' a shop one needs for the care and feeding of a Deuce.
if you don't install a pyro gauge and turn up the fuel they have about the same power. the turbo was to reduce the smoke from the exhaust (the name clean air exhaust system) i have 2 with turbo's (M35a2's) and one without (M109a3) the M109a3 weighs 3,000 pounds more but has almost the same power and gets about the same MPG.There's NO WAY that a non-turbo engine has more power than the same engine with a turbo unless something is wrong with the turbo'd engine. A turbo is an upgrade in power. That's why they add turbo's, to get more power out of the same block. It crams more air into the cylinder, and should be more efficient as well.
Line wrenches, single and doule flaring tools, all that sort of thing I have. Same with multimeters that can handle a 24v system. What I don't have (and, obviously, would have to get) are larger capacity bottle jacks and 3/4" and 1" socket sets.Unless you got a set ... you'd probably want to have line wrenches to help out with the fittings.
Having a double flaring set and learning to use it is pretty handy too.
Also some (OK ... a LOT) liquid wrench, rustbust, CRC, kerosene & ATF or other penetratin' oil would be good to keep around.
You do know that you need DOT 5 brake fluid for this truck ...
oddshot
Good advice, thanks. I kind of like the '5 minutes idling' before and after requirement. It gives you a chance to finish a cup of coffee like a gentleman.the first picture is an older style dash (upgraded from a1 i think. second one is the 70+ dash. 3rd pict - most m109a3's are non-turbo (i guess to keep the noise down while working in the box. 4th pict - m35a2 with turbo. no noticable difference between them, (if you install a pyro gauge you can turn the fuel up on a turbo and get more power. M35a3 is not a multi fuel it is a cat engine. for multi fuel diesel, kero, engine oil (new or used, ect works fine. gasoline you get less MPG and you need to add 1 quart of engine oil per (15 gallons recomended) i add 1 quart to 10 gallons so you don't dry out you seals. turbos have to warm up and down. non-turbos when you get some where you can just turn it off (better when you can smell the steaks in the Texas Roadhouse parking lot and you are hungy). a1 and 2's are 5 speed manual and a3's are automatics. a3's are usually singled out if they have a centeral tire inflation system, (never saw an a3 with duals) a2 winches are pto a3 winches are hydrolic. . "C" turbos are wlister and "D" are large. thats all i can think of right now.
Thanks,m great info.Don't over rev. it, don't bog it down. Only use the above mentioned brake fluid. Be aware of you exhaust colors. Don't expect to get anywhere in a hurry. Don't draw (if much) 12v from the first battery (you'll start issues). Some say leaks are normal, just depends which ones. Degrease your engine so you can see what is leaking and where. Be aware of date codes on tires (old 3 number codes will probably dry rot/crack). Just buy the truck already. Pay attention to coolant levels (head gasket issues). Leave plenty of stopping distance, she'll stop but she's not great at evasive manuvers. Keep an eye on front axle boots for tears and leaking. Most cabs don't keep out the weather. The personell/cab water powered heater won't work right if its hoses are connected in the wrong place. Never force any of the gear shifters into gear, you'll break internal parts - some have to double clutch. Crappy transmissions can pop out of gear esp. 4th. Don't drive like an idiot and make other hobbiests look bad. Stock up on extra 24v bulbs. If you lack power, the usual answer you'll get is "check your fuel and air filters" (fuel = 3). There is a huge debate on gear lube, don't ask, just read about it. If you want wider/bigger tires, the safest route is with wider rims (most often modified HEMTT's) you can cram them on stock wheels but will rub and can be unsafe. Bigger tires may make you top end faster mph, but some argue that you loose your get up and go from a stop. Find a copper flaring tool from Home Depot or somewhere. The main fuel lines are copper and if you mangle a fitting or such you will have the capability of reusing the line with a new fitting.
Just some off the bat pointers. I use mine as a daily driver like some here. Sometimes fixing things can be done by creativity and fabbing from scratch. A lot of fun in this hobby is creating things by yourself to fit your needs. Did I say already, just buy the truck?
<snip>. . . " Don't drive like an idiot and make other hobbiests look bad. " . . . . <snip>
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