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upgrade turbo and injectors?

brazengoat06

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Tulsa, OK
so ive got a new to me truck that needs the turbo compressor wheel and injectors replaced. should i just go back stock or go ahead and upgrade while im there. thanks

M934A2 with 8.3
 
Last edited:

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Livonia, MI
We have no idea what you are talking about.

If it is an 8.3L like we are going to guess it is, it is kind of rare that those parts are needed. Are you sure they are expired, and how do you know? If you want to be back up running for the lowest cost, on the fastest path, and most reliably, then replace with used stock parts, but not many people part out 8.3's. I'd venture to say that over 98% of them here are together and running. There is a guy on the East coast who just upgraded his 8.3L turbo and injectors, you could probably acquire his stock pieces for a reasonable price.

Caps key is on the far left of the keyboard.
 

brazengoat06

Member
362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
must be a rough morning in MI. yes 8.3 would be a correct assumption as is stated in my sig. my question is if it makes more sense to upgrade or just get stock replacements, not if said parts are expired or where the caps key is.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
Not too bad of a morning, just trying to help keep a standard format of clarity and decent writing. Really no sound reason to make either unnecessarily more difficult than need be. There is a lot of stuff in your signature.

You are asking if you should run your engine stock or modified. I think that is a question for you to answer, not really anybody else. Depends on your objectives.

In my personal opinion, there are not enough people here that have upgraded these parts and documented the results/increases with data (not opinions) to clearly quantify the available gains, yet. Most people don't have access to a dyno, but to even do a timed acceleration run from 0-60mph before and after says a lot over "feels great". Hasn't happened (from me either yet). The 8.3L is run up to about 300hp in near stock MV form before Cummins changes the turbo, injectors, pump, and charge air cooling method, from what we have now. If your target is over 300hp, and you have intentions of changing all the other accompanying fore-mentioned parts, and then you'll be the only one driving it to be sure to monitor EGT's don't go nuclear, then go for the gold from the get go.

The RV owner boards tickle these engines more than done here. A lot can be learned for free there before spending any $ by studying them first. I say do the go-fast parts, and post some performance data results, so we have something to work with as a database. Though you won't have a stock reference for numbers, many of us can chime in with our stock performance numbers as an average to create at least something vs nothing. I have been wanting to do this, maybe this is a good kick-off for it. An MV will never be a race car, but such data will be able to clearly show a performance gain or loss per modification.

So, mod it, and post five timed 0-65MPH runs on the same road/direction.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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`How do you know the compressor wheel and injectors need replacement?
 

grendel

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Derry, NH
I have a GT366SXE turbo, injectors, a2a charge air cooler with supporting timing modifications and it's finally safe enough to run down the road. Who wants to be my co-pilot? I still need to tune the injection pump, as it's "rolling coal", something I don't want to do.
 

doghead

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I did not know these engines will run on coal!
 

doghead

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I think if you look at the last 4 threads he has started, you'll find he has bad liners and block.
 

brazengoat06

Member
362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
yes i went with stock injectors just so i could get it running. after running it i was getting coolant out of cylinder 3 and valvetrain noise from cylinder 6. was hoping for a cracked head but found cracked liner and small cracks around the bolt holes in the block. im gonna pull the liner and see if there is more damage. the valvetrain noise was a broken rocker arm shaft on cylinder 6. Thanks everyone for the input but unfortunately ive got bigger fish to fry.
 
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