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Upgrades from m35a1 to m35a2

Stykz

New member
22
1
3
Location
CA
Is there a list of accessories, componets that were upgraded from the m35a1 to a2 config while in service? I have a m109a3 with about 1400 original miles when I bought it and found a lot of my stuff is from the a1 genration, and would like to know what additions were made or changed to make upgrades.

Would be interested to see what mods were made for parts references and things I should look at replacing
 

41cl8m5

Active member
254
36
28
Location
Littleton, CO
Your question is simple but hard also.
the biggest thing was the engine upgrade from the lds427 to the ldt465 with turbo or clean air kit mod. To do the change the radiator and the front sheet metal is removed to remove the old motor. After the new motor is in place a hole is made for the new exhuast going though the passenger fender, usually this was done with a cutting torch and the 2 fender/exhuast plates added to make it look like a clean install. When putting the front back on the parts that hold the headlights were upgraded to the upper headlight position only for uniformity reasons. On the a1s the headlights could be in the upper or lower position. Upper was for light beam clearance with trucks that had a winch causing the bumper to be moved out further from the front on the truck, non winch trucks the headlights were in the lower position which gave a better night time view of the road due to the lower angle of the beams. In doing this change to the headlights there were less parts involved.

My truck was made in 1968 the axles, frame and transfer case has build dates of 1967. I have not looked at the transmission but the date of manufacture on the ldt465 is 1977 on my truck. The transfer case is the old sprag clutch type, on the a2s the new air shift transfer case was used. The mounting brackets for the transfer case are interchangeable but a different from the a1 to the a2. The a1 used 4 isolation bushings on the transfer case and the a2 used brackets the used 3 isolation or mounting bushings.

The air tanks are the same but on a1s they are side by side, on the a2s the second tank from the compressor is higher than the other, the term dry tank and wet tank came from this set up the lower or first tank would hold most of the moisture and the higher tank was drier. On the a1s both tanks being side by side held moisture.

lastly the tail lights and the front marker lights on the a1s were the round type with the rear having two different lenses one side had a brake light the other was a black out brake light, the a2s had the newer teardrop style just need to tap into the brake light wires to add a wire to the other side for two brake lights and two black out brake lights.

oh yea a data plate change in the cab.

Hope this helps. All the above is from my research and what I think I know to be correct but I could be misinformed so...
 
Last edited:

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
I forgot the Sprag case. That's the only thing major other than the engine. Wiper knobs went from small to large. A1s had hinged rubber mudflaps. A1 beds were u-bolted on in the center bolts instead of using the angle clips. A1s had a stomp button above or in front of the brake pedal connected to a bellcrank on the engine side of the firewall that engaged the starter.
 

Stykz

New member
22
1
3
Location
CA
The truck I picked up is listed as a M109A3 with an LD 465,
IMG_8167.jpg
My truck had the round style front and rear lights, which I replaced with the newer style for visibility but it seems something about the configuration in the passenger rear is shorting out and burning bulbs/the flasher unit.

External voltage regulator and generator instead of alternator I believe? Is there anything on eliminating the external voltage regulator and upgrading to the alternator internally regulated? I know the generator has a large plug with many wires running to the regulator.

IMAG0102.jpg

Definitely has a sprag which I feel might be problematic? Front axle behaves odd especially in reverse. Seems to jerk the wheel around randomly, even on flat surfaces.

My headlights were in the lower position with rubber isolation pieces mounted, unlike the other trucks I've encountered where the headlights seem to be mounted into the body panel itself.

Different style ebrake handle and cable which I found out after ordering a new cable :p

Underbody exhaust with muffler
IMG_8186.jpg


IMG_8173.jpg
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
I would go to an internally regulated alternator, yes. Maybe something more modern, say from Wolverine.

I'd also look for a turbo and install boost and pyrometer gauges...but if you are happy with the power, as-is is simpler. Also, the exhaust as-is is going to be much quieter in the cab, etc...but won't sound as cool as a stack. Maybe remove the muffler and keep it out the back, but I know from experience an LD without muffler or turbo is quite loud.

Re: parking brake cables, I understand the old ones with the grease fitting in the middle are desirable, I have scrounged up a couple. I like the old style ratchet handle vs. the new over center handle.

I would go air shift T-case...I may have access to a couple if you want, though shipping would be $ I'm sure.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
457
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
That old generator and voltage regulator may be funky, but it will work after an EMP, while the newer alternators may or may not. That old voltage regulator is solid state, all analog. That's also why they can be problematic. If it works leave it alone.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,628
14,108
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Leave your exhaust the way it is. It's a lot quieter especially in warmer weather with the windows down.
 
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