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Upper ball joint upgrade?

Mogman

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I did a search and did not find the answer, I am sure I am not the first to ask this though.
It seems to be common wisdom that the BASIC lower ball joints can be upgraded to the later type with the 7/16 bolts, but what about the upper ball joints? can the older upper A frames accept the upper ball joints with the 3/8" bolts? what about the ball joint "retainer" that is not shown to be used with the heavier ball joints?
 

Action

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The "retainer" is not used with the heavier upper ball joints, because the trucks that came with those have different upper control arms, with the retainer built in...

1625692136048.png
 

badgerd

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The “retainer” aka “the ring in the pic Action posted” can be purchased at Kascar around $15ea. I think they’re meant to be welded in place.

I’ve looked into replacing the arms as well but they’re pricey (like all HMMWV stuff).


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Mogman

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The "retainer" is not used with the heavier upper ball joints, because the trucks that came with those have different upper control arms, with the retainer built in...

View attachment 839079
Curious, is the A frame heavier or is just a modified BASIC A frame with the ring welded in place, I see allot of the half circle retainers but not the 360 degree one showed in the picture, will have to go to Kascar and look.

UPDATE, sure enough they have the 360 deg retainer 22 bucks apiece not too bad.
 
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Milcommoguy

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Search for NOS arms. I see the later A2's not to bad $$$ with New bushings and a little work to upgrade. Now some that want $300 bucks plus shipping might be on another planet. True on crazy pricing one guy want $40 another $200.

Shop till you drop, CAMO
 

Mogman

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Search for NOS arms. I see the later A2's not to bad $$$ with New bushings and a little work to upgrade. Now some that want $300 bucks plus shipping might be on another planet. True on crazy pricing one guy want $40 another $200.

Shop till you drop, CAMO
Thanks, no intention of changing arms, if the upgrade is OK with the arms I have and the later style retainers (whether or not they need to be welded in) then OK,
If not I will just stay with the 5/16' bolt style.. or just stay with the ones I have as the chassis only had 3000 miles on it, and I believe that to be correct considering all I have seen when I had the truck down to a bare chassis and the fact it had (and still does have) the original 1993 date code tires on it, started with 90% or better, I have done my best to change that!
 
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Mogman

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Well, with no descenting comments and going with the assumption that the later retainers are available singly without the A arms so they can be used to update the earlier chassis I am leaning towards going ahead and purchasing the retainers and later ball joints and giving it a shot. (still teetering on the fence LOL)
 

Mogman

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You can’t drill out the lower to accept 7/16, there is not enough meat left.
Uppers can be drilled out to accept the 3/8 ball joint.
That word needs to get out, I can find numerous articles on drilling out the lower A arms, My #1 M998 (H13) has 7/16 bolts in the lowers straight out of depot sales.
 

TNDRIVER

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That word needs to get out, I can find numerous articles on drilling out the lower A arms, My #1 M998 (H13) has 7/16 bolts in the lowers straight out of depot sales.
Did the depot swap out the lower arms??? I swapped out upper and lowers on my 998,. The uppers were probably unnecessary as IMHO the uppers are along for the ride, the lowers look to do the heavy lifting.
 

Mogman

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Did the depot swap out the lower arms??? I swapped out upper and lowers on my 998,. The uppers were probably unnecessary as IMHO the uppers are along for the ride, the lowers look to do the heavy lifting.
I have no idea how to tell the early from the later lower control arms. I just assumed they drilled them out, it's only 1/16 of an inch, that is only 1/32" or 31 thousands of an inch closer to the edge, less than the average 70s spark plug gap, and probably less as most factory holes are a little oversize to begin with.
 
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