Used Banks Sidewinder - to buy or not?

[svlsmokey]

I have an opportunity to buy a used Sidewinder for $1200 (a significant savings over a new one). It is supposedly a complete package off of a 1-ton Chevy civilian truck that was wrecked. Are there any issues I should watch out for in a used set up? Thanks.

 

[K9Vic]

Price seems high to me, I bought a used one for $600 and did not use it and I was lucky to get my $600 back. It was missing the cross over from the driver side exhaust and a few misc small parts like gaskets and clamps. But overall the turbo seems good and spun well.

That is one thing to be careful of is the turbo if it spins without wobbling or other issues. Also make sure everything is there, the cross over is important part and many times that is what I see is always missing.

 

[patracy]

Personally I wouldn't but a new one. But I have issues with Gale.

I'd buy a stock setup for 1/2 or less than that. And get the same performance. (I gave $600 for my setup, sold the engine for $400)

 

[svlsmokey]

Finally pieced my kit together and got started with the install this week. Besides a few missing nuts, bolts, and such, it's going well and I seem to have all of the important parts.

I did run into a few problems. First, the frame rail is so close to the manifold that I can't get a wrench on the front bolt of the manifold. I can get the socket on there, but no ratchet wrench. Also, I'm having clearance issues with the cross over pipe coming up to the manifold. I'm thinking 1/8" inch is too close for a steel fuel line to the manifold. Your thoughts on those two points would be appreciated. Thanks all.

 

[richingalveston]

I am installing my used banks setup now, I have to build the cross over. I bought the ORD competition motor mounts and the high clearance cross member from Offroaddesign.com I just finished the motor mount and cross member install. It was not easy getting the old out with the engine In place but I did it( you have to cut the old cross member). Putting the new stuff in is easy.

The mounts raise the motor about a 1/4 inch, it may vary depending on the condition of your existing mounts. The new cross member makes a huge difference since it crosses under at the motor mounts and not in front.

I got busy with work but my next step is the cross over pipe.

You may want to look into these ORD parts, they are not terribly expensive.

Rich

 

[svlsmokey]

I resolved the bolt access problem with a good nights rest. The ratchet wrench fit on there just fine the next day... go figure. Bent a new fuel line this morning so the clearance issue is also resolved. Now on to more problems. Does anyone have a miniature hand I can borrow to access the cross over pipe bolts? Can't figure how I'll access the 3rd nut on the bottom of the manifold. And it appears my boost tube is too tall. I thought of just cutting it off but it has a flange on the end to assist the hose clamp and it should probably be cut off from the turbo end which is where the tube tapers down to a smaller diameter to mate with the turbo...

 

[richingalveston]

looks like the intake side of your turbo is turned toward the motor more than mine. Not sure if it is off a bolt or if it rotates at all but my output of the turbo stands straight up yours looks like it is leaning toward the motor. If you can rotate the turbo output to toward the passenger fender your pipe will fit right.

 

[svlsmokey]

You can see the angle better here. Your idea makes sense. I had the bolts loose from the cold side to the center cartridge and it didn't rotate. Looks like there might be a little gasket seal in there. The hot side rotated smoothly to adjust the position of the oil drain tube. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Dave Kay]

I resolved the bolt access problem with a good nights rest. The ratchet wrench fit on there just fine the next day... go figure. Bent a new fuel line this morning so the clearance issue is also resolved. Now on to more problems. Does anyone have a miniature hand I can borrow to access the cross over pipe bolts? Can't figure how I'll access the 3rd nut on the bottom of the manifold. And it appears my boost tube is too tall. I thought of just cutting it off but it has a flange on the end to assist the hose clamp and it should probably be cut off from the turbo end which is where the tube tapers down to a smaller diameter to mate with the turbo...

View attachment 620335View attachment 620336

What is your boost tube lacking there, about 1/2 inch too tall? The way I'm looking at it and what I believe I see--- at the turbo end--- is a blue rubber collar/hose that would be hose-clamped at the turbo flange. Is that collar/hose something that can be clearanced, and possibly, some clearancing of the boost tube as well? What is the boost tube made of; plastic or metel? Maybe a 1/4 inch off of boost tube and 1/4 inch off of collar/hose and still have room for hose-clamps to properly clamp at the turbo-tube connection?

 

[svlsmokey]

Update: I was able to loosen the cold side of the turbo and rotate the output back away from the engine enough to slip the boost tube into place. It's not a perfect fit but I think it'll work. Everything else is progressing nicely. Hoping to finish the exhaust tomorrow. Then double check everything and fire it up.

 

[svlsmokey]

Install complete. The exhaust/muffler kit from Banks didn't fit over the axle because of the brake portioning valve linkage. A local shop cut it and fit it together for me. Fuel might still have some air in the line - rough idle every once in a while.

Transmission is shifting funny now. It's holding in 1st gear up to 25 mph and 2nd up to 35 mph. The engine is screaming at those speeds. And it doesn't want to shift up for slower cruising speeds such as a residential street. Plenty of get up and go in the process but it's not tolerable. A friend mentioned needing to adjust the shift cable but I'm not sure what that is. Any ideas on this point would be appreciated. If I can get that ironed out I'll be better able to evaluate the benefit of the turbo.

 

[richingalveston]

if you still have the th400 there is no shift cable, everything is vacuum control. You probably have a vacuum leak or the modulator on your transmission is messed up. since you just did work on the engine, you probably pulled a vacuum line loose or got a hole in one. start with the vacuum pump and the lines that got to the vacuum advance on the IP and then down to the tranny.

search the shifting issue on this site, you will find the solution.
Rich

 

[svlsmokey]

Oh, those brittle, cracked, charcoal tubes to the IP are vacuum hoses... who would have guessed.

 

[svlsmokey]

New vacuum hoses are in place and it shifts like a champ. Its never shifted so smooth! Thanks Rich. Still idling rough and I'm getting close to max EGT's hauling an empty truck up hill so I'm gonna back the IP off a little and see if that fixes it.

 

[svlsmokey]

I turned the IP back 1/8th turn so we're at 1/8th turn total increase from the pre-install setting. It seemed better. EGT's were staying lower. It still surged and sputtered a little but better than before. Might need to turn it down a little more yet.

I thought the idle was a little high this time. Could I have inadvertently adjusted idle in turning the IP down? Also, I'm finding the throttle is a little sticky - from the pedal, not so much the lever on the IP. I checked the high idle solenoid and it's engaging when the engine is cold.

New problems: It won't start this morning. I test drove it last night and it started fine. Today the engine turned over (normal cranking speed) and eventually it sputtered and then nothing. Cranked it a few more times - 10 to 15 seconds each (normal cranking speed again) with no start. Then the starter quit working too (it was rebuilt a few years / 2500 miles ago). I can hear the solenoid clicking when I turn the key but no starter. Batteries were low from cranking so they're charging now. Once fully charged I'll check it again. The starter should be plenty cooled off by now if that had anything to do with it.

Glow plugs new about a year and a half ago. Have not done the Doghead conversion yet.

Ideas are welcome. Thanks all.

 

[richingalveston]

check your glow plug solenoid first. make sure you are getting power through it to plugs.
got to get it to start before you can work on the running problems.
check that you did not do something to the fuel line or such so that you are sucking air.
I think the best step would be: get fully charged batteries, check solenoid, verify plugs are getting 12v., get starter to engage and try to start. don't over do it.
crack injector line, crank to see if fuel is getting there. NO fuel then pull fuel line from IP and put in bucket. NO fuel. check fuel pump then filter then filter sock.
if you get it to start during any of those steps and It is fixed then you can try to make it run smooth.

You might need to rotate the IP in the mount some to get your timing right.

There are a lot of other things that might be done to make it run right but those are the basics for getting it to start.

 

[svlsmokey]

Finally found time to crawl under the truck:

-Glow plugs are getting 12 volts.
-Starter solenoid is clicking when the ignition is turned.
-Starter motor is getting a constant 25+/- volts from the Pos. Term.
-Starter motor and starter cable are warm to the touch.

 

[rsh4364]

When you guys use the banks kit do you use the long style injectors or switch to the shorter 6.5 turbo injectors? Just curious.

 

[richingalveston]

Sounds like your starter went south. Sometimes the extra cranking just does them in.

It looks like I may get to work on mine this Saturday. Sometimes if you beat on it a little bit you can get a few more starts out of them.

 

[richingalveston]

RSH - you do not have to do anything with the injectors when using the banks. The Banks passengers side manifold does not interfere with anything. The turbo position is further forward kinda like another alternator. you use the stock drivers manifold.
The cross over if ran 90 degrees from the manifold goes down and directly under the harmonic balancer and then back to the driver side manifold. It is much different than the 6.5 set up.

The Banks may not be the best turbo but the system fits like a glove when installing.

Once my turbo is done I am considering coil over on the front. I am concerned that the turbo because it is farther forward and out further from the motor will interfere with the shock hoops and upper cross over.