Using my SEE for real work

Speedwoble

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I was seriously at risk of violating my door placard prohibiting moronic operations, but I carried a vehicle lift to the hydraulic repair shop to get a cylinder resealed. This is the type of activity I would accuse other people of being reckless, irresponsible, and clubbing baby seals. I’ll try to remember that next time I am tempted to judge. Note: I did have additional ratchet straps holding the top of the lift to the loader arms in, but I removed them before remembering to take a photo.
A5C9665F-6145-482B-9168-E43C61FB264D.jpeg
 

Pinsandpitons

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I like to run the SEE with the Hoe deployed. I think side - side bumps are slightly amplified, but the loader and traction is so much better. Plus the vis as mentioned and the ease of transition make it feel a little more like a dirt mover. On flat ground the CG is lower but I'd have to look at what happens on a side hill to (espec to the left) to have an opinion on that. I even drive it on the county roads deployed (within reason).
 
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peakbagger

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If the entire wall was coming out, slow dynamite would have been the ticket. Not so good with lots of rebar but pretty impressive. Of course you would not have ended up with all those nice slabs.
 

The FLU farm

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Primarily when you were using the loader to scoop up dirt.

I'm paranoid about having to replace a clutch, so I don't dare to use it more than absolutely necessary.
 

SeeNebraska

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Primarily when you were using the loader to scoop up dirt.

I'm paranoid about having to replace a clutch, so I don't dare to use it more than absolutely necessary.
oh gotcha. Well i bought it to push snow and do this project. I dont want to replace a clutch either but i intend to use the machine :). I hope it can stand up to my abuse. I'm borrowing a skidloader to help get the loose dirt out for the remainder of the project. its just too slow to maneuver the mog w/o the ability to pivot. I may just use the skidsteer to get the dirt out of the channel and still use the mog to transport the dirt with the larger bucket down to my dumping spot.

after all the use, i'm starting to see some wetness on the hoe. I rebuilt the dipper cylinder before starting this job and both of the swing cylinders last year. I need to figure out which cylinder is next on the list i guess.
 

The FLU farm

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I may just use the skidsteer to get the dirt out of the channel and still use the mog to transport the dirt with the larger bucket down to my dumping spot.

after all the use, i'm starting to see some wetness on the hoe. I rebuilt the dipper cylinder before starting this job and both of the swing cylinders last year. I need to figure out which cylinder is next on the list i guess.
If you can beg, steal, or borrow, a dump trailer you'd save a fair amount of time, I think. Even if your dumping spot is only 50 feet away.

You may want to hold off on resealing cylinders for a while. Several times now I've had one leak, which of course irritated me, but not enough to fix it. Later they stopped leaking by themselves. And not because the machine was out of fluid.
Some seem to stop leaking by being worked, others by not being used for a while.
I dunno what's going on, but have learned to leave them alone until it's obvious that they're not going to self heal.
 

Pinsandpitons

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Sorry for no pictures, but recently used the HD 45 rock drill for 60 1“ x 18“ holes in pre-existing concrete. Worked awesome right up until the end when the old hoses sprang a leak near the quick disconnect fittings. All fixed now, no big deal but a little messy right at the end.
 

Speedwoble

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Sorry for no pictures, but recently used the HD 45 rock drill for 60 1“ x 18“ holes in pre-existing concrete. Worked awesome right up until the end when the old hoses sprang a leak near the quick disconnect fittings. All fixed now, no big deal but a little messy right at the end.
All of my hoses have sprung leaks as well. Kinda dangerous so close to the user. Hydraulic fluid injection is no joke. These are probably a good preventative maintenance replacement.
 

peakbagger

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Someone suggested just cutting off the exposed section of the hose on the reel and cutting it there. Sunlight is the big destroyer of hoses so the rest of the hose that is not in the sun should have longer l life.
 

Speedwoble

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New Holland, PA
Someone suggested just cutting off the exposed section of the hose on the reel and cutting it there. Sunlight is the big destroyer of hoses so the rest of the hose that is not in the sun should have longer l life.
In my case, it was the whips on the Tools. The hose reel is doing fine. Most quality shops around here will refuse to re-crimp ends on used hoses anyway.
 

Pinsandpitons

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I can make my own hydraulic hoses, so i just cut off the bad sections and crimped on new fittings. I did briefly contemplate replacing all the 1/2” hose with 3/8”. New hose and about 50% more of it. I doubt the reduction in flow would hurt much though I didn’t do the math.
 

Speedwoble

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New Holland, PA
I can make my own hydraulic hoses, so i just cut off the bad sections and crimped on new fittings. I did briefly contemplate replacing all the 1/2” hose with 3/8”. New hose and about 50% more of it. I doubt the reduction in flow would hurt much though I didn’t do the math.
1/2” hose is 78% more diameter than 3/8”. Quickly checking a flow nomograph, velocity would increase from ~10 to ~17, which is on the upper end for pressure lines and unacceptable for return.
Would the tool work? Yeah, probably. But higher flow velocity is more heat, more pressure drop.
 

Pinsandpitons

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nice. I guess I could use 3/8 for the pressure and 1/2 for the return given that it's not a dual acting circuit, and that might gain some spool space..... BUT, doesn't seem worth it. Extensions a la FLU Farm = more easier.
 
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