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What started out as a simple axle boot replacement turned into a fairly major repair. This V100 was on loan to LAPD and returned a few years back. LAPD was to do the upkeep on it. I do know that the had the engine overhauled and had axle issues.
See here,
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?181602-Retired-Life
Ended up being boots, MC, wheel cyls, choke cable, removal of excess wire left from LAPD days, intake issues and water intrusion measures.
The axle boots, just standard run o the mill 2 1/2 tom stuff, same with the front wheel cyls. The rears, that's another story. There is NO room between the backing plate and spring pack to work. Got the cylinders out, going back in was going to be an issue in trying to find a bolt hole kinda blind. Decided to make studs, install and loctite them into the wheel cylinder and use nuts. Worked out great! Installed a new MC, cleaned out all the lines, force fed the system with my old "Recovery 4x4" bleeder, that thing has made brakes on all sorts of MVs simple! And then gave it a good bleed. Nice pedal now, and, it stops! I also found gear oil in the rear hubs. Had to do the inner seals too.
Moved on to the engine issues. First the choke cable worked backwards, seemed very odd. Found the sheath had separated from the handle end. This would not allow the choke to be in the fully off position. Pulled the cable, found a mess of wiring in the tunnel. Seems when it was decommissioned, components were just cut out of it and the still connected to B+ wiring, just left in the place it was. Got a new cable made up, installed it, traced and removed the wiring mess in the tunnel and other places, must have removed 50 feet of wiring. Secured all the stuff in the tunnel so the driveshaft would not meet up with it. Looked at the engine. I had the filter out to clean/bleed the booster and when I picked it up, the filter rattled in the can! Took it apart, found no seal in the bottom of the can. Pulled a sheet of rubber from the parts room and made a gasket. The filter is now tight in the can. Started looking into the funky vacuum lines. The advance was plugged. Tested that, it was good. Removed the funky shunted line from ported to #1 intake port and re plumbed to advance. I saw some fittings in the intake horn. Turns out that there were 7 open to atmosphere after the filter fittings in the intake horn. Removed and plugged them. Time to put some life in it! Gave the engine some fuel, cranked it it came to life. No oil smoke, just a rich mixture smell. Let it warm a bit and found the engine would not run very well with the choke off. Adjusted the carb and found the screw on the left side made zero difference in the way it idled. Stopped the engine and looked down the troat of the carb, it has some dirt in it, probably has a plugged passage, so it needs to come off. For now, we have decided to let that go because there is another project that needs addressing before it starts raining here.
Since it was back on the ground, next issue was the retrofitted parking brake. It is set up fery poorly. LAPD could have done better. In order to adjust it, the caliper needs to be removed. After 10 or 15 times off and on and with a cable and actuating arm modification, it now holds the truck on a hill.
On to water intrusion issues. I think the reason the brake system was full of water is due to water getting inside. The MC cap is vented. Started looking at the doors and found the weatherstripping in a bad way. Hard, pieced together with gaps or none at all in sections. Found a suitable bulb type at McMaster, ordered a length to do the side hatch where the air filter is. I ordered one with the securement lip on the bulb side, it made the door too hard to close and latch. Ordered another with a 3/8 bulb and the securement lip on the back side, which would put it on the inside of the vehicle. This one worked out great. Did all of the hatches, including the cupola and did some adjusting on the hatch locks. When you sat inside before with the doors closed, there was light around the doors, now there is a nice tight seal and the latches stay latched.
It moved out of the shop under its own power, stopped and sits still by itself! Some of the volunteer kids gave it a bath with some good RV soap. It took all that oxidized paint off and now shines like almost new!
See here,
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?181602-Retired-Life
Ended up being boots, MC, wheel cyls, choke cable, removal of excess wire left from LAPD days, intake issues and water intrusion measures.
The axle boots, just standard run o the mill 2 1/2 tom stuff, same with the front wheel cyls. The rears, that's another story. There is NO room between the backing plate and spring pack to work. Got the cylinders out, going back in was going to be an issue in trying to find a bolt hole kinda blind. Decided to make studs, install and loctite them into the wheel cylinder and use nuts. Worked out great! Installed a new MC, cleaned out all the lines, force fed the system with my old "Recovery 4x4" bleeder, that thing has made brakes on all sorts of MVs simple! And then gave it a good bleed. Nice pedal now, and, it stops! I also found gear oil in the rear hubs. Had to do the inner seals too.
Moved on to the engine issues. First the choke cable worked backwards, seemed very odd. Found the sheath had separated from the handle end. This would not allow the choke to be in the fully off position. Pulled the cable, found a mess of wiring in the tunnel. Seems when it was decommissioned, components were just cut out of it and the still connected to B+ wiring, just left in the place it was. Got a new cable made up, installed it, traced and removed the wiring mess in the tunnel and other places, must have removed 50 feet of wiring. Secured all the stuff in the tunnel so the driveshaft would not meet up with it. Looked at the engine. I had the filter out to clean/bleed the booster and when I picked it up, the filter rattled in the can! Took it apart, found no seal in the bottom of the can. Pulled a sheet of rubber from the parts room and made a gasket. The filter is now tight in the can. Started looking into the funky vacuum lines. The advance was plugged. Tested that, it was good. Removed the funky shunted line from ported to #1 intake port and re plumbed to advance. I saw some fittings in the intake horn. Turns out that there were 7 open to atmosphere after the filter fittings in the intake horn. Removed and plugged them. Time to put some life in it! Gave the engine some fuel, cranked it it came to life. No oil smoke, just a rich mixture smell. Let it warm a bit and found the engine would not run very well with the choke off. Adjusted the carb and found the screw on the left side made zero difference in the way it idled. Stopped the engine and looked down the troat of the carb, it has some dirt in it, probably has a plugged passage, so it needs to come off. For now, we have decided to let that go because there is another project that needs addressing before it starts raining here.
Since it was back on the ground, next issue was the retrofitted parking brake. It is set up fery poorly. LAPD could have done better. In order to adjust it, the caliper needs to be removed. After 10 or 15 times off and on and with a cable and actuating arm modification, it now holds the truck on a hill.
On to water intrusion issues. I think the reason the brake system was full of water is due to water getting inside. The MC cap is vented. Started looking at the doors and found the weatherstripping in a bad way. Hard, pieced together with gaps or none at all in sections. Found a suitable bulb type at McMaster, ordered a length to do the side hatch where the air filter is. I ordered one with the securement lip on the bulb side, it made the door too hard to close and latch. Ordered another with a 3/8 bulb and the securement lip on the back side, which would put it on the inside of the vehicle. This one worked out great. Did all of the hatches, including the cupola and did some adjusting on the hatch locks. When you sat inside before with the doors closed, there was light around the doors, now there is a nice tight seal and the latches stay latched.
It moved out of the shop under its own power, stopped and sits still by itself! Some of the volunteer kids gave it a bath with some good RV soap. It took all that oxidized paint off and now shines like almost new!
