Valence's 1968 M101A1

[bigbe5678]

Hi That is a great looking trailer good luck with it. I like the two safety sticker in the rear do you know where I van get a couple

 

[Valence]

Hi That is a great looking trailer good luck with it. I like the two safety sticker in the rear do you know where I van get a couple

Thank you!

I know you can find those reflective stickers on eBay. They are 8" x 8" (16" x 16" are also available, but were generally used on the larger 6x6 trucks). I bought 4 of the 8" x 8" stickers for my Pioneer Tool Trailer project. See here (post #4.
Search eBay for "military delineator sign" and include searching descriptions. Or see seller "oti151surplusstore2010". They shipped from Italy, but arrived safe and sound.

Looks real nice, glad your happy with your purchase. It looks like someone tweaked your rear landing leg mount pretty good!

Thanks to you Gimp!

Also, I'm with Mr. McGuyver, and need to figure out how to straighten that part of the frame - eventually.

Zane, did you have to spread the flanges on the end gates at all to get them to fit? Mine are a bit tight, and will require some fitting to get them to work...
In any case, they look good and I look forward to getting them all installed.

I did have a little difficulty with the right-rear gate getting it onto that side rail so I could pin it. I found it a little easier if the gate was partially open when I applied liberal use of the rubber mallet. Once the pins were on, it was very stiff and removed paint and some metal when it opened/closed. I worked it back and forth and it got a little easier. If I had to guess, the right rear gate had a different manufacturer (or was an older model) as its bolts and heads were different than the rest of the racks, such as it was flat head instead of phillips.

 

[McGuyver]

Thank you!

I know you can find those reflective stickers on eBay. They are 8" x 8" (16" x 16" are also available, but were generally used on the larger 6x6 trucks). I bought 4 of the 8" x 8" stickers for my Pioneer Tool Trailer project. See here (post #4.
Search eBay for "military delineator sign" and include searching descriptions. Or see seller "oti151surplusstore2010". They shipped from Italy, but arrived safe and sound.



Thanks to you Gimp!

Also, I'm with Mr. McGuyver, and need to figure out how to straighten that part of the frame - eventually.



I did have a little difficulty with the right-rear gate getting it onto that side rail so I could pin it. I found it a little easier if the gate was partially open when I applied liberal use of the rubber mallet. Once the pins were on, it was very stiff and removed paint and some metal when it opened/closed. I worked it back and forth and it got a little easier. If I had to guess, the right rear gate had a different manufacturer (or was an older model) as its bolts and heads were different than the rest of the racks, such as it was flat head instead of phillips.

Hi Zane,
That's exactly what I was thinking. The right side gates are the tight fitting side and look like they were made by a different manufacturer. They use an acorn nut instead of a regular nut (this is visible in some of your pictures). Also don't have a hole on the center of the welded bracket like the left side gate and the older racks do that I replaced. In any case, not a big deal. I'll try your trick before trying anything else. Worst case I'll have to put some vice grips on them and spread them a little to get them to fit.

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[Valence]

I'm currently debating if I want to go the "A2" route and get surge brakes and surge axle, put a new trailer axle with electric brakes, or only replace the axle ends at the backing plate with Dexter electric brakes and hubs.

There is a 3/4 ton generator trailer for sale locally that has the surge brake setup. I could easily buy, tow home, swap parts, wheels and tires, and resell the generator trailer. Reselling the trailer at an expected loss, it should be cheaper than trying to buy the parts separately and get them shipped.

 

[McGuyver]

When I looked into swapping just the brakes on the A1 axle, I couldn't find anything that would work with the large spindle it has. You might have to replace the entire axle if you want electric brakes...

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[McGuyver]

By the way, does anyone know if any of the other trailers such as the M105 or M1101 (?) Use the same surge unit as the M101A2/A3? Just trying to determine if I can widen my search options...

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[Valence]

By the way, does anyone know if any of the other trailers such as the M105 or M1101 (?) Use the same surge unit as the M101A2/A3? Just trying to determine if I can widen my search options...

That's an answer I'd be interested in as well.


That said, it appears like you can find the surge assembly commercially, brand new. Though I don't know what is the appropriate model to attach to the trailer.

Hydro-Act Actuators TA6-TA7 Parts Breakdown
https://www.crofttrailer.com/hydro-act-actuators-ta6-ta7-parts-breakdown/#page=page-1

TA6-R --- Hydro-Act Hydraulic Brake Actuator with 3" Tow Ring - 6,000 lb Capacity
https://www.crofttrailer.com/ta6-r-...ith-3-tow-ring-6-000-lb-capacity/#page=page-1

TA6S-3R --- Hydro-Act Hydraulic Brake Actuator with 3" Tow Ring - 6,000 lb Capacity
https://www.crofttrailer.com/ta6s-3...ith-3-tow-ring-6-000-lb-capacity/#page=page-1

 

[McGuyver]

Yes, I knew about that already, but if a good deal on a used unit comes up, I'd like to know if I have the option to use one from one of the other models of trailers...

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[juanprado]

By the way, does anyone know if any of the other trailers such as the M105 or M1101 (?) Use the same surge unit as the M101A2/A3? Just trying to determine if I can widen my search options...

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no, M105 is hydraulic over air. The m1101 uses a different surge unit. Only other one is the chassis m116 series flatbeds.

 

[McGuyver]

Thanks for the input.

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[gimpyrobb]

no, M105 is hydraulic over air. The m1101 uses a different surge unit. Only other one is the chassis m116 series flatbeds.

The 105a3 has surge brakes.

 

[McGuyver]

Is it different or the same as the M101A2/A3?

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[gimpyrobb]

Not the same. Similar, but not the same.

 

[Valence]

I'm in the process of making sure the trailer can be towed by MV or civilian truck alike which means the 10-30V LED lights (which I bought last year from a nice fellow on one of the MV Facebook groups). I've removed the tail lights and their brackets, bent the brackets straight, used a wire-wheel to remove the rust and old paint, and primed and repainted. I think my wire wheel is worn out ;P



The replacement LED light buckets are plastic, and unfortunately had some cracks on the rear from, I assume, over tightening. I pushed in as much superglue as I could into and over the crack.



Check out that bare wire connection to the old taillight on the passenger side:



I've only completed the one tail light so far. The LED lights have a 5th wire that the standard taillights did not, which is a ground wire. I decided the taillight bracket mounting bolt would be a good location for the ground. Now that I think about it, the star washers used to attach the light to the bracket aren't necessary for grounding as it was for the standard incandescent housings. I did put anti-seize on the taillight bucket bolts.



I do have some concerns about the large hole in the back of the LED buckets being an excellent home for wasps. I may have to glue a piece of rubber to the inside/outside to block their access...

 

[red]

But yellow jackets are your buddy up there hahaha

 

[Valence]

But yellow jackets are your buddy up there hahaha

There’s only one appropriate answer:

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'm in the process of making sure the trailer can be towed by MV or civilian truck alike which means the 10-30V LED lights.

I mounted mine up-side-down so the light wasn't tucked up under the trailer too much. I'd rather be seen than run into. Just an option since you've only done one so far.

 

[Tinstar]

I'm in the process of making sure the trailer can be towed by MV or civilian truck alike which means the 10-30V LED lights (which I bought last year from a nice fellow on one of the MV Facebook groups). I've removed the tail lights and their brackets, bent the brackets straight, used a wire-wheel to remove the rust and old paint, and primed and repainted. I've only completed the one tail light so far. The LED lights have a 5th wire that the standard taillights did not, which is a ground wire. I decided the taillight bracket mounting bolt would be a good location for the ground. Now that I think about it, the star washers used to mount the light aren't necessary for grounding as it was for the standard incandescent housings. I did put anti-seize on the taillight bucket bolts.

View attachment 717637 View attachment 717636

I do have some concerns about the large hole in the back of the LED buckets being an excellent home for wasps. I may have to glue a piece of rubber to the inside/outside to block their access...

View attachment 717638

I used a can of expanding spray foam to fill the void.
Trimmed flush with housing after drying and then a black silicone coating on foam surface to keep out moisture.
Worked perfect and looks Factory.
Your LEDs are sealed from behind so no issues.
No more wasps.


Yellow Jackets aren’t even remotely as evil in Oklahoma as the Red Wasps.
The Red Wasps will launch and attack without provocation.
Walking by a nest 15 feet away and the suckers will come after you.
The hotter it is, the more aggressive they are.
They will also chase you for quite some distance.
They are pure evil.

You have to intentionally, physically mess with a Yellow Jacket nest for them to attack you.
Around here anyway.

 

[Valence]

I used a can of expanding spray foam to fill the void.
Trimmed flush with housing after drying and then a black silicone coating on foam surface to keep out moisture.
Worked perfect and looks Factory.
Your LEDs are sealed from behind so no issues.
No more wasps.


Yellow Jackets aren’t even remotely as evil in Oklahoma as the Red Wasps.
The Red Wasps will launch and attack without provocation.
Walking by a nest 15 feet away and the suckers will come after you.
The hotter it is, the more aggressive they are.
They will also chase you for quite some distance.
They are pure evil.

You have to intentionally, physically mess with a Yellow Jacket nest for them to attack you.
Around here anyway.

We only get Yellow Jackets here, thank goodness. That doesn't make me like them any less, but faaaar less aggressive than the red wasps you and red has often described to me.

Thanks for the excellent idea of expanding foam PLUS the black silicone to keep out moisture. Fantastic. Thank you very much!

I mounted mine up-side-down so the light wasn't tucked up under the trailer too much. I'd rather be seen than run into. Just an option since you've only done one so far.

Well that's an interesting idea I hadn't thought of. You're right, the actual taillight is tucked up under the cargo body of the trailer, though I would think it'd have to be an awfully tall vehicle or be driving far, far too close already to not see the taillight.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I drive where there is a lot of tractor-trailers. I want to be as visible as possible. No, they do not keep their distance.