Very scary brake problem!

[Marks Garage]

I got my deuce in dec 04. Brakes worked good if you pumped them once when you stopped. I was used to this on other trucks. While winching people out over the weekend the airpack was hissing and then would stop. I drove it 40 miles back to my shop. Brakes ok. Went to come home today and 10 times in 2 miles, NO air assist and barely stopped the truck. What do you guys think? Airpack? Thanks

 

[Desert Rat]

Yep.

 

[Westech]

its a super ez rebuild. Satrun surplus has the gaskets and all for about 50 bucks with shipping.

 

[Dieselsmoke]

Air packs go out two ways. One, you have your brakes lock on...which ain't too bad. The other, ya got no brakes...very bad. That's why one of the first things we tell people about here is the 1/8" pipe plug on the back of the airpack that always needs some lube shot in there. Westech is right, they are super easy to rebuild.

 

[Marks Garage]

How often will I have trouble with the airpack. The truck came with one that needs to be rebuilt. Should I rebuild and carry as a spare. I am moving to Va soon very loaded and don't need this halfway. Thanks

 

[Desert Rat]

MG,
The rebuild kit should last some time. No need to worry unless the truck sits for a spell.

 

[Marks Garage]

No way is my truck sitting! To much fun to play with. We have a legal place to ride quads down the road. City people stop at our local deli with there suvs and trailers. Then my son and i pull in with the deuce and m105 with 2 quads. Priceless

 

[cranetruck]

Properly maintained, the airpak should last for many years. It sounds like you need to bleed your brakes, as well and make sure the service connection on the driver's side in the rear is not leaking.
The airpak has an hydraulic section and a pneumatic section. Without air pressure you will probably not be able to stop the truck, but the hydraulics acts directly on the wheel cylinders with or without air.
The air valves may malfunction if your air is contaminated. You may not even need a rebuild kit, just take the thing apart, clean it and put it back together.
The airpak likes exercise, the valves may stick if not used from time to time.

 

[Desert Rat]

MG,
Good to hear! Too many sit as it is! Right now I'm forced to let mine sit due to a starter problem that will get fixed in Houston at the end of this month. I REALLY want to fix it but classes start up on Monday and go for two weeks. Then I have a week to prepare my powerpoint presentation and presto, stick-a-fork-in-me-I'm-done! Then it's off to the races to get moved down to Houston and start teaching down there.

 

[Gatnom]

<SPAN style="COLOR: white">[3]I’ve had similar trouble with the airpac.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> I narrowed it down to rust flakes from the air tanks getting into the system.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> I’m going to plumb in a filter/moisture trap and may build some stainless tanks sometime along the way.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> If you can flush enough oil (wd-40, kroil, etc) though the ports it may free up and be fine, otherwise a rebuild (or at least dissasembly) will be in order.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> Saturn has the rebuild kits listed for $36.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> I've driven mine with the airpak disconected,( Hung up and would not exhaust while out on the road), it will stop ok (empty) just remember you have to push very hard. I’d look into a filter either way.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> Dave<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>[/3]

 

[Marks Garage]

This is starting to make sense. Usually I drain my air tanks till it comes out with no moisture. about when this started, I left them open for a hour and a black tar looking stuff dripped out. Maybe thats in my airpack? Any tips on getting that out and where is it coming from. Also my duece was rebuilt in 89 but the guy I got it from did nothing to it for 5 years. But I am making up for that now. Thanks

 

[Desert Rat]

One thing I'd start with is put some rubbing alcohol in the intake of the air compressor and then some air tool lube after that. Reason being the alcohol dries out all the goo inside and helps things unstick plus the air tool lube insures the compressor won't lock up. I'd let the compressor suck up at least 1/4 of a small bottle of rubbing alcohol and let that work its way into the system by fanning the brakes and upening the emergency air valve a crack on the end of the truck. After doing that for about 15 minutes or so then I'd add the lube. It should make working on the pack much easier.

 

[MVtrucker]

The goo is probably motor oil; compressor allowing blow-by.

 

[cranetruck]

Related articles in MVM: "Airpak rebuild" June 2002 and "The alcohol evapoartor" Feb 2004.
The alcohol used in the evaporator is methanol, btw and the rate of consumption is about one pint/1,000 miles.
The compressor air intake has a filter that should be removed and cleaned every so often. It is washable and is found right on the compressor.
If you check the engine air filter canister, you will find a nipple pointing towards the firewall, that is where the compressor gets it's air during fording. I have a hose connected permanently to feed clean air to the compressor.

 

[ken]

Mighty Joe's got it. The sticky goo is old motor oil that is comming in from the air compressor. I had the same problem is 2001. my airpack quit on me and i took out a 3 week old fence at work. Trust me fences are no match for a duece. I'd tear it down and clean and relube it.

 

[Polverone]

Dieselsmoke said:
<snip> That's why one of the first things we tell people about here is the 1/8" pipe plug on the back of the airpack that always needs some lube shot in there.

Is this a good practice to get into?
How often should this be done?
How much/what type of lube?

Thanks for any more info.

 

[Westech]

prob like a drop or two a couple times a year or a little more if you drive the heck out of it. the oil really has no place to go but the back of the air pack so you dont want to flood it just lube it. ( PS the zerks for the throw out bearing rod on the trany should be lubed once and then you die! Over lubing took out my clutch.)

 

[Polverone]

Thanks Westech,
I wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing a frequently scheduled maintenence item. I'm still pouring over the CD of Tech Manuals that rdixie kindly sent me, (hats off again), and am pretty overwhelmed by it all so far. I just finished finals and I am back in school already - but I love this!! I'll get to the meat n' taters of it soon.