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Can some of the smarter chemist types around here explain why the voltage is higher (over 1V) at operating temperature then when cold (.05v)?
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Always change the coolant if a current is detected. The electrical current will destroy the protecting chemicals in a properly inhibited coolant.
Use distilled (i.e., no minerals in the water) or buy the 50/50 premix stuff as suggested.Is it better to use distilled or de-ionized water?
http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water/Use distilled (i.e., no minerals in the water.)
So you are saying that distilled water is bad to use for coolant? (wonder what the TM says. )
Heat increases ionization for most liquids and solids, only exceptions would be metals with positive temperature coefficients of resistance and dissolved ionic gases like carbon dioxide in water (carbonic acid) but only because increasing temperature reduces solubility of carbon dioxide in water.Can some of the smarter chemist types around here explain why the voltage is higher (over 1V) at operating temperature then when cold (.05v)?
Can some of the smarter chemist types around here explain why the voltage is higher (over 1V) at operating temperature then when cold (.05v)?
Perhaps the reason for the increased voltage is due to the increased ionization of the coolant with the temperature increase due to the operating temperature of the engine as you operate the vehicle.Heat increases ionization for most liquids and solids, only exceptions would be metals with positive temperature coefficients of resistance and dissolved ionic gases like carbon dioxide in water (carbonic acid) but only because increasing temperature reduces solubility of carbon dioxide in water.
On the water choice between distilled and deionized water here, either is fine. Distilled water can have dissolved carbon dioxide which will boil out on first cycle. Reverse osmosis water is also good. Do not use softened water as it has added ionic content of sodium or potassium.
That was common in the days of yore, when engines were iron and radiators copper with lead seams. Dupont used to sell (maybe still does) a 2 part cooling system cleaner. Part 1 was powdered oxalic acid, which dissolved the lead crystals. Part 2 was a neutralizer. I did many a cooling system. The cleaner would make everything bright and shiny - cleans up rust too. Woe be unto anyone who forgot to add the neutralizer.I recently had my radiator (original) rebuilt because the electrolysis between the coolant and the lead in the joint solder caused it to effectively fill up with mineral deposits after it sat in storage for so long. It was so full of crap, I'm surprised it flowed at all. You could see the white crystals coming through the solder in the corners on the outside of the radiator such that if it were dipped and the deposits dissolved, it would have leaked like a sieve. This is an issue with our trucks that I think is underappreciated, especially with the lower mileage units like mine that sat in storage for a long time. I went through and replaced or rebuilt everything cooling system related at a not-insignificant expense.